Interesting idea for med mooring.

Thanks. not seen it. If works, is a bit of a holy grail. I'm not convinced about its effectiveness when you sink the buoy and leave your berth, and have but 0.5m ish of spare depth, as is common. I can see prop entanglements. Need to investigate some more...
Thanks!
 
I would think it lays flat on the bottom when down. There is a control box with a small compressor on the quay and a long pipe that goes to the float.
 
Well, I can't think of any reason why it shouldn't work also with two bow lines.
It's a clever idea, I just wonder if the whole gizmo is properly engineered to withstand the harsh operating conditions.
Particularly after looking at how they handle electrical connections... :ambivalence:
img_0060.jpg
 
All the lines in the video are descending more or less vertically from the bow, and thus doing bugger-all to keep the boat off the quay. If they were secured further forward, though, they'd be out of boathook range...

Pete
 
We are back to weight of the chain ,which as said pulls the boat off the pontoon .
For those unfamiliar with Med mooring in still wind as per vid - any tension will do in strong say mistral wind on the bow you don,t want your stern bathing platform bashing the jetty ( tidal range is approx 1ft ) .

Seasoned Med boaters see this damage ,on other boats every time they walk a jetty .

So for that reason in this case I will wear by "late adapter hat " ----
I wash boat down any how after every trip ,like doing it so a bit of mud -so what?
If my hair and Villebrequin,s feel cardboard stiff then I hose myself down too .So for me looks counter productive .
 
Hi Tom, don't know the cost of this system, but if you want to put one on our mooring foc for demo... would be happy to oblige!! :encouragement::encouragement:
 
prv said:
All the lines in the video are descending more or less vertically from the bow, and thus doing bugger-all to keep the boat off the quay. If they were secured further forward, though, they'd be out of boathook range...

Pete
Click to expand...

fresh from installing proper mooring for MiToS a couple of weeks ago, I don't see it as a big problem (the verticallity that is) as in my case fe, anchor (we don't have a chain to "hook to" ) is a good 20-25m ahead of the bow. 10m of chain (second smaller side anchor off the typical side wind that tries to push the bow out of shape) and 10m of heavy rope (approx dims) followed by another 6-8m of two bow mooring ropes.

So, if this is installed at the joint between the bleeding heavy rope and the two mooring lines, as you reverse to your spot, you hit the up button on the remote, stick comes up, you hook the bow lines, pop them over the cleats and then you reverse to get the stern mooring lines. That would work. Of course if they expect it to work with the stern mooring lines in place, that's well dodgy and pete's point above applies!

On a side wind, that's a different story but with lazy lines unless you can go back and get hold of the right stern line, you've had it and which means that this system will be rather difficult...

What's the problem with the electrics P?, they look fine to me :eek: even have sockets there, could be bare wires wrapped around with elec. tape :D

V.
 
vas said:
What's the problem with the electrics P?, they look fine to me :eek: even have sockets there, could be bare wires wrapped around with elec. tape :D
Click to expand...
Well, yeah, when it rains, it pours. They could have also used the LBOK©, I guess... :D

My concern was that while the dock socket looks like a 3-phase, probably capable of 64A or so, and the yellow boat cable seems designed for a similar capacity, the black cable of the adapter is nowhere near that.
All well and good, till you turn on enough boat equipment to exceed the black cable capacity, because if the thermal switch inside the pedestal is (as it should be) consistent with the socket capacity, it doesn't cut off the supply, and the black cable melts for good...

Back to the point, I agree with your comments - grabbing the thing while reversing in your berth should be feasible in most cases.
Maybe not when mooring in strong x-wind and without thrusters, a situation where you must reverse (relatively) fast and secure the upwind stern line PDQ, before doing anything else.
But even in that situation, you can still recover the bow line in the "old" way, I reckon.
 
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Not a med boater but don't see the problem in grabbing it once the stern lines are on, how else do you do it now? You must be against the dock to pick up your current lazy line then walk it to the bow of the boat?
 
The point prv made is actually understandable, because depending on the bottom depth, chain weight and bow line angle, you might need to attach the floating thingie to a point in the bowline where, when it's floated, it comes up too far from your bow to reach it with a hook.
Actually, I would say that this is true for most situations - hence requiring you to raise and grab the bow line WHILE reversing, rather than AFTER having fully reversed in your berth, as Vas pointed out.

The fact that normally you fully reverse in your berth, secure the stern lines, recover the lazy part of the bow line and pull it to the bow before securing it has nothing to see with the "new" procedure suggested by this "easymoor" gizmo.
 
MapisM said:
The point prv made is actually understandable, because depending on the bottom depth, chain weight and bow line angle, you might need to attach the floating thingie to a point in the bowline where, when it's floated, it comes up too far from your bow to reach it with a hook.
Actually, I would say that this is true for most situations - hence requiring you to raise and grab the bow line WHILE reversing, rather than AFTER having fully reversed in your berth, as Vas pointed out.

The fact that normally you fully reverse in your berth, secure the stern lines, recover the lazy part of the bow line and pull it to the bow before securing it has nothing to see with the "new" procedure suggested by this "easymoor" gizmo.
Click to expand...
I don't get that at all. You just attach it to a point further aft, even attaching it a metre or two back along the lazy line, so that it always floats at (or just behind) your bow.

I agree with you on the electrical installation in that picture - it was terrible, LBOK Mark2 :D

Separately, you don't need two of these devices if you have 2 ground lines. You just link the 2 ground lines together at the bow with a ~2-3m length of thin rope. Then when you have picked up one, the second is within reach of a boat hook. Just as you do now using slimy lazy lines (don't you???), so you only have to handle one lazy line each time you berth the boat

I cant help thinking this Easymoor device isn't great if you offer your berth for visitors to rent, when you are away cruising. They will surely unplug it, or mash it up, or something
 
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jfm said:
I don't get that at all. You just attach it to a point further aft, even attaching it a metre or two back along the lazy line, so that it always floats at (or just behind) your bow.
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Yep, but that usage would be half way (sort of) between the "usual" method and what they show in the video.
I mean, in order to grab directly the bowline inside the bar which is on top of the inflatable buoy and attach it straight to your bow cleat, it has to be placed at the right position to make the bow line "pulling" right away, as it should when the boat is in her place.
What you are envisaging (btw, I agree that this could work with both bow lines and just one inflatable thingie) still requires you to grab the bow line and pull as much of it as necessary to make it work properly - in a position which is bound to be a few meters forward, depending as I said on the depth/length/angle.
Still better than running the lazy line through the whole boat length of course, but not as easy/fast as shown in the video...
 
nigelmercier said:
Exactly what I thought.
Click to expand...

Yup that's the piont ( put badly ?) I tried to make in post # 8 -re lack of tension and stern hitting the jetty
So to gain tension one will have to pull a dirty line up so,s to kinda lift the chain off the bottom ,so,s when done the bow line is more like nearer 45 degrees to hold the stern ,or prevent it being blown back in wind onto the jetty .
A vertical drop means it it not taught and in a wind boat will bash the jetty .

How do you get the bow line real tight without seeing dirty rope ?
 
MapisM said:
Yep, but that usage would be half way (sort of) between the "usual" method and what they show in the video.
I mean, in order to grab directly the bowline inside the bar which is on top of the inflatable buoy and attach it straight to your bow cleat, it has to be placed at the right position to make the bow line "pulling" right away, as it should when the boat is in her place.
What you are envisaging (btw, I agree that this could work with both bow lines and just one inflatable thingie) still requires you to grab the bow line and pull as much of it as necessary to make it work properly - in a position which is bound to be a few meters forward, depending as I said on the depth/length/angle.
Still better than running the lazy line through the whole boat length of course, but not as easy/fast as shown in the video...
Click to expand...
Yup all agreed. Benefit would be not having to run the full length of the slimy lazy line, but you would still have to haul in the last few metres so it wouldn't be as simple as shown in the video
 
I med moor a lot and this looks like a solution looking for a problem. I cannot see any real practical advantage to this arrangement. It could offer a marketing advantage for those seduced by tech.
 
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