UseMyName
New Member
I am undertaking a refit of sorts on my Twister and I want to insulate her so we can get out more in the colder months and keep her cooler in the summer. Does anyone have any thoughts on the type of insulation to use?
Insulation
- Thread starter UseMyName
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Kelpie
Well-Known Member
The best performing insulation per unit of thickness is polyurethane (kingspan, Celotex)- about twice as good as the same thickness of rockwool, and considerably better than polystyrene.
It's important not to leave any gap between the insulation and the hull, otherwise moist air inside the boat will condense on the cold hull surface causing pockets of condensation behind the insulation.
Low expansion foam would be useful for gap filling and bonding the insulation into place. Of course it's not easy to get anything to stick to the inside of the hull- good prep (rough grit saner, acetone degrease) required.
It's important not to leave any gap between the insulation and the hull, otherwise moist air inside the boat will condense on the cold hull surface causing pockets of condensation behind the insulation.
Low expansion foam would be useful for gap filling and bonding the insulation into place. Of course it's not easy to get anything to stick to the inside of the hull- good prep (rough grit saner, acetone degrease) required.
V1701
Well-Known Member
I did the forecabin of my Vega with carpet on the sides & self adhesive closed cell foam (comes on a roll from Hawke House) on the roof. Crude but helps to reduce condensation...
UseMyName
New Member
I was thinking something like a layer of something like this:
http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-loft-insulation-l75m-w600mm/182139_BQ.prd
Followed by a layer of foam then another layer of the foil insulation. Is there a marine version of foil insulation or is this ok?
http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-loft-insulation-l75m-w600mm/182139_BQ.prd
Followed by a layer of foam then another layer of the foil insulation. Is there a marine version of foil insulation or is this ok?
Dill et Bound
Well-Known Member
You have to be so careful as Kelpie said, not to leave any pockets of air or gaps,or you will end up with a shed load of trouble.Damp trapped..
The carpet method is probably the best DIY way, and most enjoyable, if you use Thixofix to apply [Only joking ]
The only effective way that I have ever used was on Steel Hull, Alloy superstructure Crew Boats for the Persian Gulf.
The accomodation areas below and in the deckhouse were sprayed with a 2 part foam.
The access foam was cut back with old saws to the ribs and beams, and fitted out with a ply lining.
Services were run in conduits, which was a nightmare, but once fitted out all the boats coped with the extreme heat down there.
And also the cold conditions in the UK before delivery...Boy they stayed warm for a steel boat..
But a retro fit would be impossible.
Whatever you use it would have to be closed cell.. so difficult to instal..
Carpet, Good quality Sleeping Bag, Thermals, and Good amount of ventilation would be my advice..
The carpet method is probably the best DIY way, and most enjoyable, if you use Thixofix to apply [Only joking ]
The only effective way that I have ever used was on Steel Hull, Alloy superstructure Crew Boats for the Persian Gulf.
The accomodation areas below and in the deckhouse were sprayed with a 2 part foam.
The access foam was cut back with old saws to the ribs and beams, and fitted out with a ply lining.
Services were run in conduits, which was a nightmare, but once fitted out all the boats coped with the extreme heat down there.
And also the cold conditions in the UK before delivery...Boy they stayed warm for a steel boat..
But a retro fit would be impossible.
Whatever you use it would have to be closed cell.. so difficult to instal..
Carpet, Good quality Sleeping Bag, Thermals, and Good amount of ventilation would be my advice..
ronmarson
Well-Known Member
I am using exercise mats, stuck on with High Temp. glue and covered with fabric.
The prep is the hard bit.
R
The prep is the hard bit.
R
Greenheart
Well-Known Member
I'm surprised if this issue hasn't been explored, perfected and demanded by thousands of yacht-owners and new-boat builders & buyers in climates like the UK's.
A bit difficult to believe that retrofitting insulation isn't possible, or that it won't be effective even if done with care and detailed planning.
These guys had a thorough try, and the description is encouraging: http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html
A bit difficult to believe that retrofitting insulation isn't possible, or that it won't be effective even if done with care and detailed planning.
These guys had a thorough try, and the description is encouraging: http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html
UseMyName
New Member
That's the blog where I got the idea from. I guess you would just have to be really careful when layering the different insulation not to have any gaps. I was thinking about using caulk and then a roller of sorts to make sure the different layers were completely sealed together.
I think it will just take time, patience and lots of measuring!
I think it will just take time, patience and lots of measuring!
Greenheart
Well-Known Member
Well worth doing, I reckon. As long as things like metal through-hull fittings are thoroughly insulated too - and hatches/windows will want double-glazing to prevent them leaking heat like gaping holes.
Such a pity these measures tend not to be included at boats' design/construction stage. A boat which is comfortable in the low season must be much better value than one which no-one wants to spend time aboard when there's an "r" in the month.
Such a pity these measures tend not to be included at boats' design/construction stage. A boat which is comfortable in the low season must be much better value than one which no-one wants to spend time aboard when there's an "r" in the month.
V1701
Well-Known Member
I lived through 2 winters FT on the Vega, roof with GRP/balsa sandwich made a difference, the unsinkable Sadlers are reportedly good aren't they? In addition to the carpet & closed cell foam used an oil filled rad for heat. For bunk used an electric blanket under a thin duvet with a thick duvet on top & sleep twixt the two duvets. Drip feed diesel heater/charcoal or wood burner would have been much better than oil rad but getting off topic...
Kelpie
Well-Known Member
Erm, are you sure the Vega has balsa coring? I thought it was vinylester foam or somesuch.
