Installing Treadmaster using epoxy adhesive

[Bodach na mara]

I am about to start installing Treadmaster using an epoxy adhesive. The adhesive that I am using was supplied with it and came as a 600ml kit of 2 plastic containers. I have found references to a different package with different instructions for mixing (just for starters!)

So far to prepare for this I have read the thread started 2 years ago "Removing Treadmaster " Can anyone advise me on how to proceed with the installation, for example one set of instructions for the adhesive says that it should be spread onto the deck surface, while another set says spread it on the deck and also on the back of the Treadmaster. All advice welcome.

 

[VicS]

The video shows the adhesive being applied to the back of the Treadmaster only !

Are you sure the instructions which say apply to both surfaces do not apply to the contact adhesive

 

[vyv_cox]

When you use the epoxy adhesive you need to hold the treadmaster in position if the deck is sloping. The adhesive has absolutely no grab and has low viscosity, so panels will slide down.

 

[Minerva]

Are you sure about using epoxy? Surely that will create a pig of a problem down the line when the time comes to replace the tread master?

 

[Stemar]

I can't see any benefit to putting epoxy on more than one surface - that sounds like an impact adhesive, which is what I would have expected for that sort of job. Someone's going to want to get it off later (unless Vlad the Invader nukes it off), and I can't see getting epoxied treadmaster off without damaging the deck.

 

[dankilb]

Epoxy is the ‘traditional’ TM adhesive, as I understand it, and the way to get the best life. In theory, you shouldn’t need to remove it for a long time.

I doubt the epoxy would mind if you coated both surfaces - but it would slip/slide even more.

We’re researching old-school Treadmaster as a way of covering irreparably damaged textured non-skid across our decks. We’re hoping it would go on, ‘hot’ perhaps, over an initial rough (epoxy) fairing and so the ability to bond with epoxy would be a plus.

Pity whoever tries to lift it in the future, but if it sorts the deck…!

 

[vyv_cox]

Ours had been stuck down with impact adhesive. Water had got under it, especially at corners, it had then chipped and looked awful. Stripped it all off, terrible job, and replaced with epoxy. Last seen many years later, still looked good.

 

[Bodach na mara]

Are you sure about using epoxy? Surely that will create a pig of a problem down the line when the time comes to replace the tread master?

Thanks for all your comments. I will be using the epoxy as I have already bought it, another commodity that is dearer than whisky, and I will not be worrying about removing it. With a lifetime of 30+ years it will last longer than me!

I have seen advice to hold it in place on sloping surfaces my using strategically placed masking tape on the high side.

I was hoping to get the templates made and the panels cut today but the antifouling took a lot longer than I hoped. Hopefully the aches and pains will ease overnight and I will be fit enough to get started tomorrow.

 

[kieronriley]

This has got to be the worst job i have ever undertaken (Hardest) if someone was to offer me a thousand pounds to do the same as i did to my boat(30 foot Morgan Giles) i would tur them down , it has no holding capability at all so every piece needs propping up holding down wedging in and all of the rest of the terms for trying to make the pieces stay in place while the epoxy goes off . its a bit like using melted butter. But i did complete the job ,so you will as well ,make sure you have a supply of wood blocks wedges and strips and when you think you have enough . Take more. Best of luck ,keep your cool and get yourself a big treat as a reward for when you finish. Kieron

 

[Stemar]

keep your cool and get yourself a big treat as a reward for when you finish. Kieron

I'm doing that tonight after changing two float switches (one per hull) that are out of reach under the engines, while the leads on the pump required connections to be made at arm's length and practically out of sight. Definitely one for the list of jobs I never want to do again. At least the bleeding has stopped now

My reward is a nice single malt, with some of Milady's special nibbles, then Chicken with Prosecco and gratin dauphinoise, followed by a Key Lime Cheese cake, all washed down with a Barolo. The prospect almost makes the job worthwhile. Almost...

 

[arcot]

Perhaps:
.
1. Using a 2 mm or less notched spreader for the epoxy.
.
2. Spots of 5 minute epoxy at 4 corners to rapidly fix sheets

3. Warm dry weather
.

4. Duct tape to hold sheets in place.
.
5. Heavy weights and or roller
.
6. Vinegar to clean off excess epoxy before setting.

Start 13 sheets next week weather permitting.

 

[dankilb]

Perhaps:
.
1. Using a 2 mm or less notched spreader for the epoxy.
.
2. Spots of 5 minute epoxy at 4 corners to rapidly fix sheets

3. Warm dry weather
.

4. Duct tape to hold sheets in place.
.
5. Heavy weights and or roller
.
6. Vinegar to clean off excess epoxy before setting.

Start 13 sheets next week weather permitting.

Sounds good - based only on what I’ve read/heard (never done it!).

Apparently wedges or pieces of scrap (wood/metal/etc.) can also be helpful to keep it in place. People say it doesn’t half like to slip and slide (and the weights themselves won’t necessarily help with that). The quicker adhesion on the corners sounds like a good plan of attack for that.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Bodach na mara]

Perhaps:
.
1. Using a 2 mm or less notched spreader for the epoxy.
.
2. Spots of 5 minute epoxy at 4 corners to rapidly fix sheets

3. Warm dry weather
.

4. Duct tape to hold sheets in place.
.
5. Heavy weights and or roller
.
6. Vinegar to clean off excess epoxy before setting.

Start 13 sheets next week weather permitting.

Thanks for the advice. I apologise for not posting when I completed the job last week. I did find out about the 2mm spreader and bought 3 of them. I used masking tape to locate the panels and switched to duct tape after one slipped. I have a cockpit complete cover in place th keep the cockpit dry and warm enough. The advice I had was to use "solvent" to clean up and on asking was told that meths was a suitable solvent. If anyone else tries this, get better advice!
It was a hell of a job. As I have said in another thread, the white adhesive is very sticky and stiff and gets everywhere. A lot of time was spent after placing each panel on cleaning off the accidentally smears if adhesive from the panel, other surfaces and myself. I was wearing disposable gloves and went through a lot of them. Regarding temperature, the adhesive instructions state that it has a pot life of 30 minutes and minimum working temperature of 15 degrees but can be used from 10 degrees. Within the covered cockpit the temperature ranged from 9 degrees to 36 degrees but I could cool it down by opening panels. I mixed up only small batches which creates the problem of measuring out quantities of each part. The instructions state only that the whole of one part should be added to all of the other part, which would give far more than I could use in 30 minutes.
After the job was done, it was necessary to tidy up the appearance by painting round the panels. I masked them off, forgetting that they have a textured surface that drew in paint by capillary attraction. It took a long time to get that mess to an acceptable appearance using rags and white spirit.
Would I do it again? Not b****y likely!

 

[john_morris_uk]

Acetone was the solvent we used. Even after careful wiping, some judicious sanding is going to be needed to clean up the edges.
We found lengths of anchor chain useful to hold down any panels that needed weight. We also used a roller to ensure the whole panel was glued without air bubbles.