Installing new engine

I agree with Tranona - get a Beta or Nanni, twin cylinder so much smoother than the 1GM10.

Spares cheaper too and Beta offer custom mounts.

It will be an interesting and satisfying project!
 
ghostlymoron said:
I've checked the dimensions and the GM10 is about 7" less high than the MD1 and also slightly shorter. I can't find exact details of the mounting positions but they look very similar. The one I'm looking at also has all the controls and a single lever throttle and gearshift. How hard can it be? I'll have slightly more power and massively more generation (alternator instead of Dynostart) so advantages all round. BUT - I'm not underestimating the work involved.
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I'm currently undertaking the very same job. It is a lot of work, there are times when it's one step forward and two steps back but I'm getting there now and am really looking forward to the final fit.

One thing I would query though, do you really want to replace an old fashioned raw water cooled engine with overly expensive parts with another? The Nanni and Beta are far more superior engines in my opinion.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Don't be daft - recon of course.
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Then, unless you're a marine engineer, i'd either be very careful or seek some advice. There are many reasons why engines have been reconditioned and probably as many dodgy recon artists who are handy with a can of spray paint.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Don't be daft - recon of course.
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Check the size of the prop you can fit. If the engine you are looking at has a 3.1:1 box then you need a 14 or even 15" prop and you may not have enough room. Think you will find the mounts are closer together on width so you will need some way of building the beds inwards. Almost certainly will need to be higher, but the fixed point is your prop shaft so take your dimensions from that. A flexible coupling is a good idea - an R&D will do, but the (much more expensive) Bullflex is better. Worth converting to a Volvo shaft seal if you can while it is all out.
 
James W said:
Then, unless you're a marine engineer, i'd either be very careful or seek some advice. There are many reasons why engines have been reconditioned and probably as many dodgy recon artists who are handy with a can of spray paint.
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+1

check out ebay theres a little yanmar on there at the mo
engine mounts re differences are simple to over come if you can weld, remake em to match
all the parts are easy to buy off ebay I brought the whole lot re new mounts complete water lock swan neck much cheaper than else where JUST BIDE YOUR TIME
I couldn't check the gear box ratio fitted on the 2qm15 I brought which turned out to be to low for my needs so parts swapping parts about now
I didnt want to buy a new drive plate to fit the yanmha (even if I could ) so had the fly wheel machined (£67.50) to take the drive plate as fitted on the original petter mini twin
which had been in the boat from new. The original hurth bw box is going back in as it is a straight swap for the box (non original ) that came with the yanmar. I'm certain I'll have to do some thing re the adapted engine mounts to refit the original box but hey its just a little bit more. I say all this to encourage others to get stuck in and do it your self, I've spent less than £700 to do it all including the engine new vetus mounts full exhaust system and service parts.
 
The engine I'm looking at has got all the accessories including the prop. Whether the engine runs smooth is not known at the moment but can be seen running and I'll take a knowledgeable friend with me.
 
I don't think I've got room for a twin much as I'd like one. No custom mounts on secondhand engines!
Stoshak said:
I agree with Tranona - get a Beta or Nanni, twin cylinder so much smoother than the 1GM10.

Spares cheaper too and Beta offer custom mounts.

It will be an interesting and satisfying project!
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ghostlymoron said:
I don't think I've got room for a twin much as I'd like one. No custom mounts on secondhand engines!
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The Nanni/Beta fits almost exactly the same footprint as the 1GM. I replaced a 1GM with Nanni 14. about 20mm longer, same spacing for mounts athwartship, little further apart fore and aft, bit bulkier at the rear top for the extra cylinder. Would easily fit in the space where an MD1 is. But, not often available used. Long term though a better bet as freshwater cooled, quieter and smoother. Yanmar is after all nearly 40 year old design.
 
Does the existing engine really weigh 3 cwt
I lifted the 10 hp Lombardini engine out of my Stella & on to the floor on my own & then put it back after the boat was refurbed
I would have thought that a bloke on the cabin stood astride the hatch lifting with a rope & a bloke with big testicles down below lifting ( possibly putting some wood blocks under as it goes up to give a breather)should get it on deck.
After that just push it over the side if you do not want it anymore
Have to say that the Lombardini was very good & being originally made as a generator engine & marinised by the manufacturer it had parts readily obtainable from car parts. Ie starter, alternator was made to fit several different cars so could be sourced easily
 
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I've just checked the data sheet which is a poor quality scan and it seems to say approx 130kg including reversing gearbox. So just under 3cwt but less if I can strip off the gearbox and flywheel and any other bits. Its made of some special sort of cast iron and even the rocker cover is heavier than you would expect. It'll need some very big cojones to lift it and I haven't got a hatch directly above. My plan would be to disconnect and strip off all parts possible, jack it up and put a plank under, haul out into the cabin, use chain blocks on the boom to lift into cockpit and then lower to ground.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I've just checked the data sheet which is a poor quality scan and it seems to say approx 130kg including reversing gearbox. So just under 3cwt but less if I can strip off the gearbox and flywheel and any other bits. Its made of some special sort of cast iron and even the rocker cover is heavier than you would expect. It'll need some very big cojones to lift it and I haven't got a hatch directly above. My plan would be to disconnect and strip off all parts possible, jack it up and put a plank under, haul out into the cabin, use chain blocks on the boom to lift into cockpit and then lower to ground.
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Get s modern lightweight engine. & boat will sail like a rocket
Or does it rely on the engine weight for stability?
Possibly should be researched first
 
I replaced the 1960's Albin petrol engine last winter with a recently recond Volvo MD7. (yes I know) I was lucky to have a crane available for lifting, but obviously as the old engine was coming out, and the beds had to be rebuilt, it wasnt possible to swing the new engine in straight away. However the crane was only there for one day.

The Albin could just about be lifted by two fit (fitter than me anyway!) men, but the Volvo weighed in at more than twice the weight. I boarded the cockpit floor, then built a crude sledge, so that the engines could be slid around with levers, or block and tackle. A 2 ton Tirfor winch was used fro shifting both horizontally and vertically on board, and the whole thing was easy enough single handed. A beam across the cockpit hatch (with load spreaders for the heavier engine, and give a little more height) was adequate for lifting both engines in and out of the saloon, and on and off the bearers.

Actual fitting was a matter of measuring everything, measuring again, and then a third time. The new engine was a very close fit under the cockpit sole, so a 3d wooden dummy was made up of light ply, giving me all the essential dimensions. This also prved invaluable in setting up the new bearers too, as it was bored accurately to get the prop shaft angle right. (Prop shaft was out, and a 1" curtain pole six feet long gave me a close enough alignment right through the dummy, the inboard bearing and the P bracket so that once the new engine was in place, final alignment proved quite reasonably straightforward.

Economically viable? No, it cost more than the boat is worth and was a lot of work. but I like the boat, have oput a lot more effort into it already than it is actually worth, so that I now know her strengths and weaknesses. And I enjoyed doing it anyway. Yes I could have bought another one for what it has all cost me - but she is in a very real sense MY boat, much more than had I Ebayed it without an engine and started again. But then I know what i am doing, and am advised by a very experienced boat builder.

But the actual set up was reasonably straightforward. Many years ago, I took an old Ford 105e petrol engine out and put a BUKH 20 into my old Eventide, without a crane. We got alongside a Jetty which at LW was about two feet higher than the deck level of the boat, and with a set of hefty planks, four fit men, and the trusty 2 ton Tirfor, we were able to move the engines without too much difficulty.
 
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