Inner forestay - Sea Sure or Witchard

I

Independence

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I'm fitting an inner forestay aboard a 31 feet vessel and am undecided whether to use a Sea Sure Highfield Tensioner or Witchard Thread Adjuster.

I'll be using it when single-handed and want something quick and simple to fit which also minimises time on the fore-deck.

Does anyone have a preference at a practical level?

Thanks
 
I have a block and mainsheet tackle. lead it back over the coachroof after clipping it onto the Wichard padeye, and winch it tight with the coachroof winch. You need to go forward to release it.
As the storm jib is high set and high cut so as not to scoop water, it works well, and is v cheap.

StormJibsetup11.jpg



StormJibsetup3.jpg


StormJibsetup6.jpg


I stow it just in front of the shroud when not in use. I have since added a custom made zip and velcro bag to tidy it up and to prevent the genoa sheets snagging on it.

StormJibsetup10.jpg


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My sheets are permanently attached to tthe sail, and thread through the existing ghenoa cars, which are moved fully forward, with out removing the furling genoa sheets. There is room in my cars for that.
 
Independence said:
I'm fitting an inner forestay aboard a 31 feet vessel and am undecided whether to use a Sea Sure Highfield Tensioner or Witchard Thread Adjuster.

I'll be using it when single-handed and want something quick and simple to fit which also minimises time on the fore-deck.

Does anyone have a preference at a practical level?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I have the Sea Sure Highfield Lever going to a dedicated Wichard Padeye on the foredeck. Adjusted in length so that it is quite hard to close the lever. If I'd had the choice (and the money!) I'd have gone for the Wichard adjuster as it would be easy to clip onto the padeye and easy to tension without any chance of slipping when tensioning the highfield lever. I used the highfield lever because I had it in my shed.
I must be honest and say I've only used it while practising and never in anger.
 
Have you used it in anger Jim?
I am working with one of our club members on the same issue, but he doesn't like the stay in contact with the drum when it's under storm working tension.
He is currently planning a method of bringing the lower anchor point further aft.
Sorry to have missed you at the S'butt by the way.

Bill
 
I use an ordinary bottlescrew with "handles" as seen in this photo:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1171&d=1253886458

I have no experience of a highfield lever, but have some doubts regarding the tension that can be achieved. To operate the bottlescrew is rather quick, I need twelve full turns to tension the stay enough and it takes less than a minute.

On a practical level: To deploy the inner forestay, hank on and hoist the storm jib singlehanded at sea on a very windy day will mean hard work in wet and bouncy conditions for more than just a couple of minutes. I have never done it alone, only with someone at the helm.
So if you think you might need it during a passage, it is a good idea to deploy the stay in advance, hank on the jib and bag it. Tacking with the genoa gets more complicated (furl/un-furl), but better than the alternative, I find.
 
Billjratt said:
Have you used it in anger Jim?
I am working with one of our club members on the same issue, but he doesn't like the stay in contact with the drum when it's under storm working tension.
He is currently planning a method of bringing the lower anchor point further aft.
Sorry to have missed you at the S'butt by the way.

Bill
Click to expand...

Bill,
there is an anchor point behind the drum - it does not touch anywhere.
I have used it in f7 as a trial, but not in bouncy seas, I was in the river.
Was going to try it out last year, but got preoccupied with the poor boom clearance on 2nd and 3rd reefs, and then the wind went into the wrong quarter for us to safely sail.

Missed you too. Mwahhh!
 
I've had both and would go for a Wichard wheel adjuster if doing it again. It just tensions so much better than a highfield and really doesn't take long to spin a few times.
 
Jim, Your inner forestay seems to be mounted to the stem fitting. I thought one of the reasons for having a separate forestay (apart from the roller reefing getting in the way) was to move the centre of effort further back, and so the inner forestay would be 60-90 cm behind the forestay. Is my understanding wrong?
 
Wunja said:
Jim, Your inner forestay seems to be mounted to the stem fitting. I thought one of the reasons for having a separate forestay (apart from the roller reefing getting in the way) was to move the centre of effort further back, and so the inner forestay would be 60-90 cm behind the forestay. Is my understanding wrong?
Click to expand...

No Vince, mine is based around the premise that the sail will work to windward, nothing to do with centre of effort in my original design assumption.
I would not be able to meet your criteria , as I would have to put the fitting behind the anchor locker lid, which would mean the sail being fouled by the babystay.
 
Inner forestay tensioner

I use a home made high field lever for my main (only) forestay on trailer sailer. It is very quick and easy to apply a lot of tension. The actual tension you can apply depends on the dimensions of the high field lever.
Mine has a lever about 41cms long with the take off point about 5cms from the pivot so I have a 3 purchase leverage in applying tension. This nicely tensions the hole rig. So I reckon it could work well on a removable inner fore stay. I like the speed of attachment when raising the mast when underway after lowering for bridges. olewill
 
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