Injector Pump Re-installation. Need to 'crack' the injectors? (Ford Lehman 2715E)

[CaptainBob]

As per subject. I'm soon going to re-install my refurbished injector pump. After I plug it back in, will I need to do more than a simple bleed up to the final bleed screw on the injector pump?

I've heard people mention the need to 'crack' the injectors on occasion but am unsure how to do that on a Ford Lehman 2715E?

TY!

 

[johnlilley]

Not quite sure on this engine but will you have to reset the timing of the pump as there is probably some rotational adjustment to line up with timing marks on the flywheel.
Cracking the injectors is simply loosening the fuel pipe connection slightly until solid fuel instead of froth is pumping out when the engine is turning over to release any air in the pipe from pump to injector. Usually you do not have to crack all of them, two is usually enough as once the engine runs the others will clear on their own.
However the complete system may benefit from bleeding if it is not auto bleeding. Start at the primary filter close to the tank and work toward the engine cracking the injectors lastly.
This info is based on the BMC engines so the Ford might be different, I am sure other posters will have more accurate info.

John Lilley

 

[paddywackcocker]

yep makes it a lot easier on the starter. Crack them all off, a good few cranks on the starter and away you go. we use to tighten them as they use to get a good spit, tighten as you crank and she will start fireing, after you've got 3 on the go, your away. (bit messy if your not quick but easy clean up). its probably sucking egg type stuff but also your pump has its own cam and requires oil in the lower case.

 

[caiman]

The pump will definatly have to 'timed' to the crank.You can't just 'plug it back in'.I sorted out a guy locally last year,by removing the pump,and resetting the timing,after all the 'experts' diagnosed the poor starting and clouds of white smoke as bad compression on a recently fitted second hand engine.The guy was well pleased-first time his donk had started without 'ether',and the first time it ran without the 'cumulus'.Did you 'set' the crank when you removed the pump?Has the pump come back from refurb in the same 'set' position?(unlikely)If no to either question then a(simple) procedure will need to be followed for refitting the pump correctly.Paddy is right about the pump having its own oil level,there is a level plug on the side.-Use engine oil.
If you fully charge your starter battery before you start the job you will be gratefull afterwards.
Hope this helps.
Tell us how you get on.
Cheers

 

[CaptainBob]

Hi. Thanks for the replies.

caiman, fully aware it needs to be 'timed'. When I took it off I marked the position of the large cog on the pump so I can return it to that same position prior to plugging it back in. Unfortunately I didn't also note the rotational position of the pump in the slots it bolts into. They offer a small amount of rotational play.

Lancing Marine informed me I could try installing it using my mark and if it doesn't work without issue then no harm done, just follow the proper procedure (in my case (probably... ), aka, pay someone - I don't have the right tools I don't think).

 

[caiman]

Slots are for ease of fitting.If the crank has not moved then yes,if you put the pump at your mark,the timing should be as it was when the pump was removed.Are the studs still in the block?I found pump replacement easier by removing them,then using them as 'bolts' when the pump was in place.Pump fits with a slight 'twist' due to being a helical gear.It might take a couple of goes to replace with the 'bolts' central in the slots of the pump.Be carefull not to turn the gear when fitting.If you do,reset gear to marks and try again.
On the engine I worked on,the timing marks were under an allen head inspection plug on the pump side of the engine,approximatly in the 4-5 o clock position in the bell housing.I needed a mirror to view them.If crank has not moved then you will not need them.Tool for plug is the only extra tool required.
Bleeding should be as allready said.Where the injector pipes fit to the engine,slack off and spin the motor until no more air emerges (after bleeding to the pump).Where the pipes fit to the engine is a 'bridge' pipe,the actual injectors are under the rocker cover.You should not need to get to the injector itself.If afloat,shut the seacock so that you don't flood the exhaust pipe and risk seawater entering the engine through the exhaust valves while bleeding.Take care not to overheat the starter motor and wiring by running the starter for too long.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
When going for a start,full throttle and excess fuel buttun depressed.Don't forget to turn seacock on when the donk starts to fire.

 

[CaptainBob]

Brill, thank you. Just what I needed. Will give it a go.