In Mast Furling Update

[Paul_S123]

Just thought since my original thread, that I would update my experiences with the in mast furling system on my new to me Moody 31 mk2.

Since taking delivery (last week) of the new boat, I have been fiddling a lot with the furling system. Per the last thread it needed winching in and out..which obviously isn't right.

I have it working quite well now. Most of the problems can be explained away and a bit more experience...and a lot of fiddling have made the system work reasonably well.

On the initial pull, one of the battens pops out the furler on the opposite side. No amount of winching will get the sail out, you have to go up to the mast, push it back in a half inch or so, and the sail then comes out freely. We tightened up the halyard and that has virtually eliminated this. I just pull the first bit out carefully from the cockpit and it seems to do the trick.

The reefing line on the initial pull was sometimes winding itself up the furler instead of down, this caused it to jam the furler. This was solved by putting a rod on the boom block, the new lower angle helps and it no longer furls up and jams.

Multiples of people (including myself) stand on the reefing line when pulling the sail out....this obviously doesn't help. Cure was to yell at people got get off the f'in line.

The seller had a dinghy tied down on the coachroof, with the lines running under that. Removed the dinghy and it freed things up a bit.

The sheet needs to be released to allow the boom to rise as the sail comes out. This is a big one, I had a lot of people saying the boom needs to be at a perfect 90 degree angle from the mast. That is fine for the first 30% of the sail, but if the sheet is not released and the boom not able to rise, the last 70% of the sail is very hard to get out. Release the sheet...easy.

All in all the system is 100% better, I have had the sail in and out 75-100 times now, if it jams...it can be be put down to one of the above mentioned point. I do still have a little too much friction in the system, but I have a workable furling system, and I intend to improve the friction issues in the coming months. Thanks for everyones help.

Been out of the Isle of Bute Sunday and again today....posted a few pics below.

 

[PeteCooper]

Glad you got it sorted ... but in pic 5 the halyard is too tight

 

[NormanB]

Battens? Inmast furling - really?

 

[Pinnacle]

Battens? Inmast furling - really?

Yup - vertical ones. You can see them in the last pic.

 

[PeteCooper]

Battens? Inmast furling - really?

Vertical battens.

 

[Pagetslady]

Wow that's a Maxi Roach a great sail I had one for 5 or so years, I find you need to be on starboard tack and let the main sheet go, that is if yours is the same as my selden mast the sail comes out on port side.
Mike

 

[Pete7]

Excellent news.

We have just ordered a new in-mast main for our Moody 31 and chose not to have battens. Hopefully be ready for collection from Kemps at the end of January.

You mentioned the boom being at 90 degrees, which we have also always be told. Interestingly our boom has two positions at the goose neck fitting. Since the boom sits on the kicker using the lower goose neck fitting lifts the boom end up away from the cockpit and less likely to bang me head. Anyway having tested the new position it doesn't make a jot of difference to furling or unfurling the main. I have asked for the new main to be made with the foot cut for the new position.

Pete

 

[NormanB]

Yup - vertical ones. You can see them in the last pic.

My bad - need new specs.

 

[pvb]

This is a big one, I had a lot of people saying the boom needs to be at a perfect 90 degree angle from the mast.

You mentioned the boom being at 90 degrees, which we have also always be told.

There's no need for the boom to be at 90 degrees, this is one of those folklore things - perhaps inspired by in-boom furling systems, which generally do need to be at 90 degrees.

 

[Moonbeam]

I knew you'd get it sorted out, and I imagine you are glad you didn't remove it (the furling system) and put it up for sale on ebay. Great pics, fantastic to see you are already out enjoying the boat.

 

[NormanS]

Glad you persevered and got it sorted. Interesting that the problem was lots of little things. Lots of people say that the boom has to be at right angles to the mast, and lots of us have been saying that's rubbish. Quite why people say that with a loose footed sail, the precise angle of the boom is important, beats me. Mine works well.

 

[BrianH]

Glad you persevered and got it sorted. Interesting that the problem was lots of little things. Lots of people say that the boom has to be at right angles to the mast, and lots of us have been saying that's rubbish. Quite why people say that with a loose footed sail, the precise angle of the boom is important, beats me. Mine works well.

I'm sure pvb is right and the myth was transferred from in-boom system requirements. My Profurl in-boom mast/boom angle is critical - not 90° but 88° to quote the instruction manual. I had a lot of frustration, boom-jams and creased mainsail on furling until I got the boom-strut at the correct length and now it always performs perfectly. However, whatever the problem, I could always drop the mainsail and lash to the boom, even with the worst-case jamming scenario.

 

[ip485]

We have just ordered a new in-mast main for our Moody 31 and chose not to have battens.

If you could try both you will regret that decision.

I have a Kemp with vertical battens and it is superb (with a Selden mast). The shape is so much better.

 

[NormanS]

I'm sure pvb is right and the myth was transferred from in-boom system requirements. My Profurl in-boom mast/boom angle is critical - not 90° but 88° to quote the instruction manual. I had a lot of frustration, boom-jams and creased mainsail on furling until I got the boom-strut at the correct length and now it always performs perfectly. However, whatever the problem, I could always drop the mainsail and lash to the boom, even with the worst-case jamming scenario.

Yes, you make a good point, that with in-boom furling, if in real trouble, at least the sail can come down. I must admit, that before trying either method, I was prejudiced in favour of in-boom for the reason that you give. However, having now had in-mast furling for the last ten years, I am very happy with it.

 

[cmedsailor]

The sheet needs to be released to allow the boom to rise as the sail comes out. This is a big one, I had a lot of people saying the boom needs to be at a perfect 90 degree angle from the mast. That is fine for the first 30% of the sail, but if the sheet is not released and the boom not able to rise, the last 70% of the sail is very hard to get out. Release the sheet...easy.

Absolutely. Correct and very important. Just ease the main sheet and you will see the sail do the rest.

 

[mjcoon]

Quite why people say that with a loose footed sail, the precise angle of the boom is important, beats me. Mine works well.

Except that if the outhaul runs from the boom near-vertically to the clew the tension is not going to pull the sail out. Whereas if the boom is allowed to rise perhaps the pull will have a better vector?

Mike.

 

[Pete7]

We have just ordered a new in-mast main for our Moody 31 and chose not to have battens.

If you could try both you will regret that decision.

How would I do that without buying two sails?

 

[Pagetslady]

Except that if the outhaul runs from the boom near-vertically to the clew the tension is not going to pull the sail out. Whereas if the boom is allowed to rise perhaps the pull will have a better vector?

Mike.

The outhaul should never be near vertical, the outhaul traveler should be stopping quite a way from the mast for that very reason.
Mike

 

[Pete7]

The outhaul should never be near vertical, the outhaul traveler should be stopping quite a way from the mast for that very reason.
Mike

Which do you prefer?

 

[NormanS]

Which do you prefer?

I'm surprised to see that the bitter end of your outhaul is attached some way forward of the traveling block. Mine is attached to the travelling block, and therefore gives a better angle of pull. (Less vertical).