IKEA Inreda Led spotlights

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StuE

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The above lights come in a pack of 4 with a transformer. Can I just throw away the transformer and connect straight to my 12v . If so, is it ok to join the 4 pairs of cables together and attach to the old single 12v light feed or do I need a separate feed for each light.
The 12v specs on the transformer are DC12V, max 500mA,0.5-6W
DC700mA,max8.5v
If these are not ok to use I will just return them.
 
StuE said:
The above lights come in a pack of 4 with a transformer. Can I just throw away the transformer and connect straight to my 12v . If so, is it ok to join the 4 pairs of cables together and attach to the old single 12v light feed or do I need a separate feed for each light.
The 12v specs on the transformer are DC12V, max 500mA,0.5-6W
DC700mA,max8.5v
If these are not ok to use I will just return them.
Click to expand...

Umm - Maybe.

Check the voltage and polarity *from* the transformer (i.e. mark the cable, then cut it in the middle of the mark) and make sure you wire it the same way.

LEDs might fring if the polarity is wrong.

I successfully fitted some DIODER 2" dia lights a couple of years ago - using existing wiring, and leaving the old fittings in place, with a additional (Towsure, caravan) switches.
 
Ikea LED lights

A uncertain about the lights. They may have a diode bridge built in (often do have) which means they run on AC but DC is OK. They will work OK on either polarity of DC. (check).
The transformer rating does seem to indicate the transformer has poor regulation. However i don't think this would be enough to current limit the lEDs. A disaster if one LED was disconnected.
Roughly speaking I would say OK on 12v DC. good luck (and stand clear) olewill
 
InReda spotlight

I've had these on my boat for a year or so.

Discard the transformer.

Wire up as you would any 12v light (wires need to be right way round or they won't light up).

Excellent warm white.

Works for me.
 
Thanks for all the replies I did as Tradewinds suggested and discarded the transformer, kept the wee junction box thingy, cut the end plug off and attached a old 12v supply so no problems with polarity. All is good and I discovered you can tilt the light as well - whoo hoo.
 
PCUK said:
Charging voltage may shorten their lives.
Click to expand...

I have posted this caution before.

Do be careful when you start using apparatus designed for you home on your boat. Before others rush out and buy what appears to be a bargain please note the following.

I have actually tested a 20 LED strip lamp bought from a supermarket in my lab and observed some good reasons why not to use it or indeed other modified home fixtures on your boat.

The lamp's working current at 12 volts was measured @ 113mA, it gave a nice bright warm white steady light output. At normal charging voltage of 13.8 volts the light was noticeably brighter and the current had increased to 173mA, that's a 50% increase. At 15.3 Volts the Lidl LED strip was brighter still and was consuming 230mA, that's over double the current consumption at its declared rated voltage. Modern battery chargers have an equalising cycle which can approach 16V.

LEDs are current operated devices, increasing current flowing through the device by raising the voltage will result in progressive damage, culminating in premature lamp failure.

There are real risks using household lamps on your boat. My figures speak for themselves, at best the longevity of the lamp will be much reduced, at worse you risk a fire. You just don't have any way of knowing what the consequences are.

I'm sure testing the Ikea lamps would reveal similar concerns. It may be worth potential users testing the strips.

All LED lamps used on you boat should have constant current control circuits built it. These integrated circuits control the current within the lamp independent of the voltage applied. Consequently they can cope with the likely range of voltages different battery chargers produce. Constant-current lamps are often rated at 10-30V. Lamps rated for 12V will not normally have any protection other than simple series resistors, that's why they are often less expensive!

More and more smart battery chargers are coming to the market so the likelihood of seeing higher voltages on our boats will increase with their use.

Regards
 
Ikea LED lights

I fitted a set of Ikea LED lights in the forecabin before we launched, the ones that have four settings - static single selectable colour, slowly changing thru the colours and a rapid change. Reason was that I wanted a reading light under the pointy end because I prefer to use the forecabin bunk the 'wrong' way round.
I cut off the transformer and fitted to the 12v lighting circuit. Not had a problem as yet other than when I switch the other standard light on or off the LEDS can switch on.
Bit spooky from the outside when it switches on in slow colour change mode by itself
 
Adrian Jones said:
I have posted this caution before.

Do be careful when you start using apparatus designed for you home on your boat. Before others rush out and buy what appears to be a bargain please note the following.

I have actually tested a 20 LED strip lamp bought from a supermarket in my lab and observed some good reasons why not to use it or indeed other modified home fixtures on your boat.

The lamp's working current at 12 volts was measured @ 113mA, it gave a nice bright warm white steady light output. At normal charging voltage of 13.8 volts the light was noticeably brighter and the current had increased to 173mA, that's a 50% increase. At 15.3 Volts the Lidl LED strip was brighter still and was consuming 230mA, that's over double the current consumption at its declared rated voltage. Modern battery chargers have an equalising cycle which can approach 16V.

LEDs are current operated devices, increasing current flowing through the device by raising the voltage will result in progressive damage, culminating in premature lamp failure.

There are real risks using household lamps on your boat. My figures speak for themselves, at best the longevity of the lamp will be much reduced, at worse you risk a fire. You just don't have any way of knowing what the consequences are.

I'm sure testing the Ikea lamps would reveal similar concerns. It may be worth potential users testing the strips.

All LED lamps used on you boat should have constant current control circuits built it. These integrated circuits control the current within the lamp independent of the voltage applied. Consequently they can cope with the likely range of voltages different battery chargers produce. Constant-current lamps are often rated at 10-30V. Lamps rated for 12V will not normally have any protection other than simple series resistors, that's why they are often less expensive!

More and more smart battery chargers are coming to the market so the likelihood of seeing higher voltages on our boats will increase with their use.

Regards
Click to expand...

Is there an in-line voltage regulator that could be fitted to make them safe?
 
Murv said:
Is there an in-line voltage regulator that could be fitted to make them safe?
Click to expand...

Indeed there are 12v and 24v DC-DC voltage regulators available but anything that is effective and reliable is relatively expensive.

Nigel who commented earlier in the thread might have some suggestions, although I think, like me, he favors buck-boost constant-current controllers.

I have seen all sorts of voltages used on consumer products and not all use 12V. I have seen 5, 9, 10.5 and 14 volts used with specialist transformers producing the voltage the particular LED lamps require. Put 13.8 volts on a light strip designed for 9V.

I see that some contributors say they have been using the lights successfully, which is well and good. The fact is, without proper testing, one simply doesn't know if excessive currents are flowing at higher voltages and cumulative damage is occurring.
 
I normally fit a regulator that will maintain 12V even when the engine is running and you are getting a 14.4V supply. I normally use an Amperor one but there are smaller capacity units if its just for a few LED lights.
 
Adrian Jones said:
I have posted this caution before.

Do be careful when you start using apparatus designed for you home on your boat. Before others rush out and buy what appears to be a bargain please note the following.

I have actually tested a 20 LED strip lamp bought from a supermarket in my lab and observed some good reasons why not to use it or indeed other modified home fixtures on your boat.

The lamp's working current at 12 volts was measured @ 113mA, it gave a nice bright warm white steady light output. At normal charging voltage of 13.8 volts the light was noticeably brighter and the current had increased to 173mA, that's a 50% increase. At 15.3 Volts the Lidl LED strip was brighter still and was consuming 230mA, that's over double the current consumption at its declared rated voltage. Modern battery chargers have an equalising cycle which can approach 16V.

LEDs are current operated devices, increasing current flowing through the device by raising the voltage will result in progressive damage, culminating in premature lamp failure.

There are real risks using household lamps on your boat. My figures speak for themselves, at best the longevity of the lamp will be much reduced, at worse you risk a fire. You just don't have any way of knowing what the consequences are.

I'm sure testing the Ikea lamps would reveal similar concerns. It may be worth potential users testing the strips.

All LED lamps used on you boat should have constant current control circuits built it. These integrated circuits control the current within the lamp independent of the voltage applied. Consequently they can cope with the likely range of voltages different battery chargers produce. Constant-current lamps are often rated at 10-30V. Lamps rated for 12V will not normally have any protection other than simple series resistors, that's why they are often less expensive!

More and more smart battery chargers are coming to the market so the likelihood of seeing higher voltages on our boats will increase with their use.

Regards
Click to expand...

Very true but all mine are designed for car/motorhome use and for domestic use need the transformer as an extra so i guess they must be ok.They are also CANBUS.
 
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