Ignition Key Wires

[lailow]

I am working on a Ford 2728T. The boat has a starter switch and a key ignition. It does not start and the wiring is all there, but just not connected. I have found three loose wires (in the engine compartment) that come from the key in the dashboard panel. I believe one goes to the solenoid but I don't know where the other 2 need to be connected. I know the key switch has more than three wires and am assuming that the others are connected correctly. I have been told the key wires were botched on purpose to keep "live a boards" from being able to start the engine.

Can someone clarify where 3 wires from the key to the engine are supposed to be connected?

Thank you

 

[vyv_cox]

I see nobody has tried this one in almost a day, because I suspect it is almost impossible to answer. You need firstly to put a meter on the switch and find out which is the starter connection. This is very easily done. You could then check that the starter turns over. If not then maybe one of the other two wires is live? Your meter should help you to decide where it should be connected. The other one? No idea.

 

[cimo]

I am working on a Ford 2728T. The boat has a starter switch and a key ignition.

yes, its not going to be a straight answer.

if any further help at all....

Can we assume you have a pushbutton switch plus a seperate keyswitch?

the pushbutton could connect to the starter solenoid or can be used to engage the preheat (if applicable).

the keyswitch can be use to energise the alternator field winding in position 1(the dash charge lamp comes on). Position 2 can connect to the starter solenoid or the preheat.

It's up to you really how you want it.

my keyswitch has 2 positions. #1 for alternator field/charge lamp. #2 energises the starter solenoid. I don't have engine preheat yet, but I plan to put this on a seperate pushbutton eventually.

a photo may get more responses.
rgds
c

 

[pappaecho]

If the engine is a derivative of the 4 litre Dorset engine fitted to Ford Cargo lorries etc, I have two Ford Mermaids complete with wiring diagrams.

On the Mermaid, the key just enables the starter motor and starts the engine, at the same time providing an "excite" line to the alternator, so the system charges.
The ignition system on mine does not have glo plugs or preheaters, and has a mechanical lift pump so there is no electric lift pump. It has mechanical stop controls which cuts off the diesel supply.

PM me if you need the diagram

 

[pappaecho]

I have looked up your engine and it is the Ford Sabre, sort of son of mine.
Connectiosn from the keyswitch will be

to starter motor relay
to excite circuit to alternator
to preheater circuit (see below)
To electric stop solenoid ( if fitted)

If your ignition switch has positions left of the 12 o clock position ( preheat) then one wire will go to the preheater. It will be heavy gauge because of the current drawn.

If the ignition switch does not have a lft of the 12 o clock position then it probably does not have a preheat circuit like mine.

If the engine does not have a manual stop (pull) , then it probably has an inline solenoid operated stop switch. You need to identify this, and apply a temporary 12 volt supply to it to see if it clicks .. if it does then it will have opened, and so the engine will start, when cranked.

The third connection will be to the smaller wires on the alternator. If the rest of the switch is wired correctly, if and when the engine starts, the alternator warning light will remain on with the engine running, and it should sound an alarm that the alternator is not charging.

One you have got the system running, use a multimeter to identify the lucar connectors on the back relative to the key position, so that connections to the alternator and stop solenoid are in the "run" position and the connection for the starter solenoid in the "start" position
The engine may have a mechical lift pump. One of mine the cam failed inside the engine, and so ot has an electrical lift pump, which if fitted should also be wired to the "run" postion