Idiots guide please for VP 290 DP Leg oil change

Mr Googler

Mr Googler

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First time doing this and I dont have the manual!!

I found drain bolt hole. What tool do I need for it.

Is dipstick on top. Do I have to remove front cover to find filling hole.

Any pictures or diagrams would be great.

Thanks in advance.
 
I'd start by downloading a manual from HERE.

I use a large flat driver in a socket to undo the drain bolt so as not to damage it.
Don't lose the little gasket!
Undo the dipstick and the oil will drain out faster.
If the oil is all milky when it comes out, decamp to the bar and have several large drinks.

Replace the drain bolt plus gasket.
Remove the shift cover.
Remove the fill bolt with an allen driver or key & tilt the drive up.
Add about 2.6L of oil to start with (DP-E) (this can be fun if the bathing platform is close to the top of the drives).

Check the dipstick with the drive down.
Add enough oil so that the level is at but not above the upper mark on the dipstick.
Drain out a bit if you overfill it.

Replace dipstick, fill bolt, shift cover.

dv.
 
The oil is really thick so expect to be there a long time unless you can pump it in from the bottom.

If you think you are going to hold a funnel while you do it then be comfortable because once you have started you are sort of committed.
 
"hold a funnel "
Tie it firmly to something(in my case bathing platfrom) to ensure it does not flop over when full of oil.
Use whatever length of hose sufficent to reach filler hole in leg which is in "down"positon ,if you are really clever you will make sure the hose is just the right size to stay in the filler hole of its own accord.Fill funnel and walk away and do something else while the oil slowly fills leg.
If you over fill just undo drain bolt and remove excess.
 
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The oil is really thick so expect to be there a long time unless you can pump it in from the bottom.

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I find leaving the oil in the airing cupboard overnight beforehand can help /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Thanks to everyone for your comments. Really helpful.

What oil should I use. I believe it is API GL5 80/90 which is basically hypoid oil i think.....which I can by from the local motor shop.
Do I need to get Volvo stuff?
 
Here's the stuff I use: https://ssl11.lon.gb.securedata.net/clas...075w90_1ltr.jpg

Castrol SAF-XO "Fully Synthetic 75w/90 Multi-grade gear oil to GL5 specification"

Some people swear by only using the Volvo stuff as it has water inhabiters - TBH if you've got water in there you've got bigger problems. I check my gear-oil every 2-3 weeks anyhow (Yes OTT I know) so if there was any water in there i'd know pretty quickly
 
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I check my gear-oil every 2-3 weeks anyhow

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Is that possible with the boat in the water?

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I've a trailer and I regularly go from river to sea etc. so always moving about

But to answer your question - YES. Put a few of your friends and a barrel full of water up the bow... bow will sink, stern will raise - viola*

* Depends on how deep yer transom is I guess
 
As its your first time, I suggest you get Volvo in or a respected engineer and watch them to see how its done. saving a few pounds now is not always the cheapest option in the long run. Its not just an oil change its looking at things the untrained eye dont know.
 
How much do you pay for that.

VP stuff is listed at £70 for 5 litres although I am sure you can get it for a bit less through Keyparts etc

I have looked at other brands such as Millers TRX Synthetic 75w90 and that is £60 for 5 litres and if you can't get it locally you need to pay for delivery.

I haven't seen an alternative cheap enough to sway me away from the proper VP stuff.
 
I stick to VP stuff too. I know a chap that is a rep for Century oils ( now part of Fuchs) and he said he couldn't get that spec of oil any cheaper. So I get it from Volspec along with the anodes and bellows etc for the annual service.

Eddie
 
That was the conclusion i reached, not worth saving given that only the Volvo stuff has the water absorbing additives its not worth the risk.
If like me you only check your outdrive oil annualy, if some water starts to find its way in shortly after relaunching its going to be in there for a year until discovered, at least if you have the Volvo oil in there you at least have some protection againest minor water ingress.
 
The Castrol oil I got was trade hence cheaper, if you were to pay full price I reckon it'd be the same as Volvo stuff
 
Whilst on the subject...what do you use to top up the power trim fluids.

I also noticed I've got a bit of leg droop!! Over the last week since the boat has been out one leg has dropped about 1/4 way down all of its own accord.
Leak somewhere??? /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
Could be leaky seals inside the pump housing if the fluid level stays the same.
Or leaking rams / pipework / fittings if it doesn't.

dv.
 
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