identify the mystery Morse throttle/gear lever?

[PWR]

Anyone able to identify? My guess is 30 years old, probably original, in Sadler 25, says Morse on the side (LHS as shown in the pic) nearest I can find in Morse website or Google searches is Morse MV2 shown here

http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine...-mounted-engine-gearbox-control-306490-607221

If that is it has anyone had success taking it off to check?

Thanks as ever for any suggestions.

 

[sailorman]

Anyone able to identify? My guess is 30 years old, probably original, in Sadler 25, says Morse on the side (LHS as shown in the pic) nearest I can find in Morse website or Google searches is Morse MV2 shown here

http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine...-mounted-engine-gearbox-control-306490-607221

If that is it has anyone had success taking it off to check?

Thanks as ever for any suggestions.

cant remember the name but very common

 

[scottie]

Morse model MI
Obsolete sorry as ASAP says
remove from back held on with 4 slotted machine screws through the cable mounting plate

 

[PWR]

that was quick, ta to both, found a manual at

http://www.equipment.ath.cx/instrument_pdf/Morse MI_MIW.pdf

for anyone seeking.

 

[scottie]

What do want to do with it?

 

[PWR]

Engine not going into forward, but revving, and going into reverse, the lever got a kick (inadvertently) the other day, want to check that cables are engaging at the engine, then hoping to find that the cable has come off within the back of the controller. Ever happen to anyone?

This occurred as I was reversing off the mooring, in close proximity to a bridge, in oncoming tide, so was not a happy discovery. Anchor went out bloody quick.

 

[scottie]

It's the pull out lever for neutral run up not being pushed back in and causing the slot that the drive pin locates in to chamfer and act as a wedge pushing the pull out shaft to disengage.

You can clean the shaft which may help but other than replacing the shaft which I would doubt being available now you will have to replace the control.

You may find the handle to be seized on by now.

Opening the mechanism and cleaning out the gunge and re greasing might help watch out as the detent ball is spring loaded and will try escape.

 

[PWR]

Specific and actionable information, fantastic, thanks a lot. Will let you know the outcome.

 

[vyv_cox]

My 34 had a control that looked very similar to yours. I dismantled it several times to regrease and try to cure problems with the engine speed gradually reducing. The main problem is that the shaft portion that controls the detent springs is made from a diecast zinc metal that is not man enough for the job. It wears over time and eventually the detent grooves are completely lost.

I replaced mine with the one shown in your link. In the Sadler 34 the lever is recessed in a fibreglass moulding, which the replacement lever would not quite fit. I made a new one in a slightly different shape but yours seems to be mounted on the flat coaming, so it would not be a problem. In all other respects the mechanism is identical, including the diecast zinc shaft, so eventually the same problem can be expected to return.