I have a dry boat....

[Sybarite]

After 30 odd years my boat was getting a bit damp inside with water sloshing around. Last year salt water was dealt with (new shaft and stern gland), the year before the WC pump and piping were changed as were the through hull fittings.

Today I have just had the fresh water pumps changed as there was a fresh water leak. And the bilges are as dry as a bone.

Hope they still will be tomorrow.....

 

[Neeves]

We are 18 years old, so not nearly as old as yours. Been dry since new - except for those times I made a mistake with the plumbing or did not replace the impeller seal correctly! Saildrives, normal collection of seacocks, salt water inlet for deck wash and galley, another for the desalinator and 2 heads. I replaced a freshwater pump, all domestic water, about 6 years ago.

The engine bays get a bit grotty when I service - but easy to clean and everything else is dusty rather than wet.

Jonathan

 

[Sybarite]

We are 18 years old, so not nearly as old as yours. Been dry since new - except for those times I made a mistake with the plumbing or did not replace the impeller seal correctly! Saildrives, normal collection of seacocks, salt water inlet for deck wash and galley, another for the desalinator and 2 heads. I replaced a freshwater pump, all domestic water, about 6 years ago.

The engine bays get a bit grotty when I service - but easy to clean and everything else is dusty rather than wet.

Jonathan

I use nappy pads in the engine bay to mop up drips.

 

[jamie N]

I've a carvel Folkboat, and have no idea of what you people are talking about? Dry??

 

[rotrax]

I hope to have a dry boat soon. Well, dryer. Our boat uses a traditional stuffing box, but it is situated where I cant get to it for adjustment. It also goes green with verdigris. The only way to adjust it is to knock the nuts round with a long chisel or screwdriver.

This offends me, as does the verdigris.

I intend to fit a Volvo type-the new one from ASAP Supplies with the vent and lube ports-on a 200mm extension GRP tube.

This will place it where I can reach it, away from the out of reach really narrow tapered space at the very rear of the engine compartment.

There will always be a little water as the anchor locker and keel stepped mast are both linked through limber holes to the main bilge sump.

 

[johnalison]

I hope to have a dry boat soon. Well, dryer. Our boat uses a traditional stuffing box, but it is situated where I cant get to it for adjustment. It also goes green with verdigris. The only way to adjust it is to knock the nuts round with a long chisel or screwdriver.

This offends me, as does the verdigris.

I intend to fit a Volvo type-the new one from ASAP Supplies with the vent and lube ports-on a 200mm extension GRP tube.

This will place it where I can reach it, away from the out of reach really narrow tapered space at the very rear of the engine compartment.

There will always be a little water as the anchor locker and keel stepped mast are both linked through limber holes to the main bilge sump.

You will still need to reach the Volvo-type gland to burp it, unless you have one of the types where this is not needed.

 

[rotrax]

You will still need to reach the Volvo-type gland to burp it, unless you have one of the types where this is not needed.

Look, mark and inwardly digest. I said " I intend to fit a Volvo type-the new one from ASAP Supplies with the VENT and LUBE ports. "

These fix the minor shortcomings of the origonal Volvo ones.

Also, the extension tube will allow far better access, bringing it forward 200mm, away from the narrow and confined space the OE one is situated in.

But thanks for pointing it out.

 

[Heckler]

Look, mark and inwardly digest. I said " I intend to fit a Volvo type-the new one from ASAP Supplies with the VENT and LUBE ports. "

These fix the minor shortcomings of the origonal Volvo ones.

Also, the extension tube will allow far better access, bringing it forward 200mm, away from the narrow and confined space the OE one is situated in.

But thanks for pointing it out.

I bought the last seal from Asap, the clone one but no points on it as described, just blanks. I have just been looking for the one you describe but they dont seem to do it for a 30mm shaft. Am I doing just a man look that my wife often accuses me of?
Stu

 

[rotrax]

Stu-it looks like the 30mm one does not have the vent and lube ports.

I need a 1 1/2 inch one, fortunatly that size does.

Perhaps the Radice one has the vent port in 30mm?

 

[zikzik]

My previous Contessa 26 had very restricted access to adjust the stern gland nuts. I found and bought a pair of extra wide adjustable spanners (Faithfull brand) that worked.

 

[rotrax]

My previous Contessa 26 had very restricted access to adjust the stern gland nuts. I found and bought a pair of extra wide adjustable spanners (Faithfull brand) that worked.

I have all the skills and tools for normal boat maintenance, including all the different types and sizes of grips, water pump pliers, adjustables and even an Island Packet recomended oil filter mole type grip, purchased at vast cost from the USA. I have been a pro mechanic all my life. The across flats size is almost 3 inches. The gap at the rear-by the inner nut-is 4 1/8th inch. It is below the tapered part of the hull by 8 inches.

The stuffing box is out of my reach, is in a tapering space and the verdigis has caused the threads to become tight. It is a right barsteward.

As I said, the only way to adjust it is by knocking the nuts round with a long cold chisel or screwdriver, which is a poor way to deal with what should be a routine adjustment. Interestingly enough, this appears to be common practice with many IP owners. But not me!

I need arms likeClyde from " Only Which Way But Loose " to reach it, and if I could, tools wont fit due to the confined space of the rear end of the hull. It tapers at each side, and the floor of the hull tapers upwards too.

I wish it were as easy as buying more tools..........................

 

[rotrax]

Update on the above.

Wednesday I removed the traditional Groco bronze stern gland-took almost three hours due to the prop coupling being really tight on the shaft and the hose clips on the coupling cuff being really difficult-almost impossible in fact-to reach.The rearward tapering area it is mounted in is almost like a tapered tube with a slot cut in the top. The walls close in above the stern gland, making it impossible to attach big tools, and even more impossible to turn them when-and if-they are attached.

I ordered an Orbitrade stuffing box and a 200mm GRP tube of the same diameter as the stern tube. I struggled to find a suitable hose for the cuff. Arthurs Chandlery pointed me to Vitesse in Fareham who had just what I needed.

ASAP's Fareham branch delivered my bits, I cleaned up the propshaft, cleaned up the stern tube end and fitted the new cuff, extension tube and stuffing box. I took the prop shaft coupling home and cleaned it up internally by spinning it in the lathe and giving the inside a light polish. I also cleaned up all the fastners and the key.

The stuffing box-or Stuffy Box as Orbitrade call it-is now further forward so access for the annual greasing is easy. I need a vent hose long enough to be above the waterline clipped up tidily and the propshaft coupling needs refitting and its finished, About 200 Quid all in.

We do laugh at some of the Chinese translations in instruction books, but I did chuckle at the Swedish translation in the fitting instructions.

" Make sure the stuffy box is vented after vessel is lunched " and " Lubricate with grease supplied after 200 hours or anually whichever acurses first "

I suspect Google translation shoud have said " Launched "and " Occurs "................................

Looking forward to a dryer bilge now-be interesting to see how it lasts compared to the Volvo one fitted for six years on our previous Island Packet.