VicS
Well-known member
Yes it works if you quench it. My point is that there is no need to quench it !
I hate banjo joints ...
- Thread starter dgadee
- Start date
Yes it works if you quench it. My point is that there is no need to quench it !
savageseadog
Well-known member
After annealing I often lap my washers on a piece of wet and dry on glass.
I've no problem with heating and quenching and so on but it's sometimes a good idea to buy new ones as well.
I've no problem with heating and quenching and so on but it's sometimes a good idea to buy new ones as well.
prv
Well-known member
Yes - sealing parallel-threaded fittings to make up my filter manifold. They worked very nicely for that.
Sounds like they're not the right thing for banjo bolts though.
Pete
Blueboatman
Well-known member
"Holdite" Sealant as recommended on previous Yanmar/rubbish banjo/airleak/fuel system threads does seem to assist/ cure this dubious component.
Since resealing the banjos on the fuel lift and secondary filter assemblies, both of which are mounted to the Yanmar engine block and therefore possibly subject to undesirable vibration, my 'invisible' air leak that necessitated bleeding if left for more than a few days, has gone.
Before that I tried new/heating/lapping copper washers without discernible success.
Since resealing the banjos on the fuel lift and secondary filter assemblies, both of which are mounted to the Yanmar engine block and therefore possibly subject to undesirable vibration, my 'invisible' air leak that necessitated bleeding if left for more than a few days, has gone.
Before that I tried new/heating/lapping copper washers without discernible success.
CreakyDecks
New member
Steel needs to cool down slowly to anneal it but copper can be quenched. Since it can be, then it makes sense to do it. That way you can get on with the job!
DavidGrieves
Member
I've been having some problems with sealing a banjo bolt on the fuel pump on a volvo 2002. Tried all the usual stuff and even replaced the copper washers, but it still leaked. The fuel pump had been replaced by the previous owner(old one was in a locker).
I eventually removed the pump to get a closer look at it. I noticed the scrape on the bottom of the pump body. The banjo bolt had been bottoming out inside the pump preventing it squashing the copper washer. I ground a little bit of the end of the banjo, bought new washers from keyparts (alluminium ?). Put it all back together and now leak free.
Both of the fuel pumps were sealed type(Sofabex?). The old one had the inlet and outlet inline with each other. On the newer pump, the in and out were only about 30 or 40 degrees apart.
So if anybody has a new type pump it might be worth checking the banjo bolt length.
I eventually removed the pump to get a closer look at it. I noticed the scrape on the bottom of the pump body. The banjo bolt had been bottoming out inside the pump preventing it squashing the copper washer. I ground a little bit of the end of the banjo, bought new washers from keyparts (alluminium ?). Put it all back together and now leak free.
Both of the fuel pumps were sealed type(Sofabex?). The old one had the inlet and outlet inline with each other. On the newer pump, the in and out were only about 30 or 40 degrees apart.
So if anybody has a new type pump it might be worth checking the banjo bolt length.
dgadee
Well-known member
Decent engineering perhaps, but then perhaps engineers bu**ered it up by having multiple "standards" - several used on the same engine - leaving us bungling amateurs trying to work out the correct threads and correct copper washer sizes.
grafozz
Member
non-engineering method
When working with these brass/ copper / aluminium washers on Volvo engines I flat them off , both sides on 400 grit paper. Doing this shows up the uneven surface as shiny so it is easy to see when they are even and flat . Then a very gentle tighten up without over torquing .
It has worked well on my engines
When working with these brass/ copper / aluminium washers on Volvo engines I flat them off , both sides on 400 grit paper. Doing this shows up the uneven surface as shiny so it is easy to see when they are even and flat . Then a very gentle tighten up without over torquing .
It has worked well on my engines
boguing
Active member
Just to pick up on annealing again.
Copper is unusual in that it can be cooled quickly.
Most others must cool slowly - this goes for aluminium washers. Except that red heat will melt it. Annealing temp in Alu is reached when wood or soap burn and leave a mark upon contact.
Copper is unusual in that it can be cooled quickly.
Most others must cool slowly - this goes for aluminium washers. Except that red heat will melt it. Annealing temp in Alu is reached when wood or soap burn and leave a mark upon contact.
Heckler
Active member
Worked at Aston Martin?
Stu
Heckler
Active member
Ahh, but, it makes it nice and pink and new looking!
Stu
boguing
Active member
Nope.
Pa was an engineer and taught me. I studied engineering too.
More to the point, I have more than one Land Rover!
Heckler
Active member
Same point, alu bodies, to repair or to panel beat you use soap to guage the heat.
Stu
ffiill
Active member
Big problem is often with thread size.
Some use metric fine but others traditionally use UNF-so similar and therefore easy to confuse.
Some use metric fine but others traditionally use UNF-so similar and therefore easy to confuse.
gibbo26
New member
dowty seals
these work very well, can be re-used, the self-centreing ones are best but sometimes the imperial size will fit well on metric and the converse if the theads are undercut
I have used them for many years and still use the original ones (they have been on and off several times!)
these work very well, can be re-used, the self-centreing ones are best but sometimes the imperial size will fit well on metric and the converse if the theads are undercut
I have used them for many years and still use the original ones (they have been on and off several times!)