I did everything wrong!

[Bru]

If it's the Barton reefing gear handle that's missing, have you actually had the main up yet?

Maybe she's now got a slab reefing mainsail and the Barton gear is thus redundant - that's the case on Brigantia for example

As for attaching the genoa sheets, make do with bowline knots for now. It's the traditional way of doing it (although I'm going to change over to using a rope shackle when I get a round tuit 'cos of the nuisance value of the bowlines hanging up on the shrouds)

Sail ties? Any old bit of string will do! We'd got a load of blue 8mm braided that had been used for roping off around the speaker stacks at a festival so I chopped up short lengths of that, heat sealed the ends with my fag lighter and hey presto, half a dozen usable sail ties

By the sound of it, I don't think you're far off being able to get out there and start sailing, just a few niggles to sort out.

 

[The engineer]

Strip the carb and clean the jets, that will 99.9% certainly fix the 1/2 choke issue. Sounds like a blocked idle jet.

 

[sandeel]

barton handle

Barton reefing handle

If it's anything like this one with a square end, it is a simple job to bend some stainless or plain steel rod to shape, and file the square end, I had one made from and old hand brace,
worked a treat!!
It's all part of boating fun
good luck

 

[bignick]

Strip the carb and clean the jets, that will 99.9% certainly fix the 1/2 choke issue. Sounds like a blocked idle jet.

+1 !! Just don't do what I did with one old outboard and try to blow a blockage out with an airline - it got so well lodged that it was scrap afterwards and I had to cannibalise another engine and make one good one from two dubious ones..

 

[VicS]

Sorry to hear of your troubles.

The reefing handle i think we have already discussed in an earlier thread.
Keep a look out for a replacement in the Jumble sales etc. Improvise until you find one.

Sail ties can be improvised. My boat did not come with any!

Many ways of attaching sheets to a head sail. Bowlines if nothing else .

As far as the outboard is concerned I am surprised a short shaft is not suitable but I guess the bracket has been positioned for a long shaft.

For a short shaft engine the top of the mounting board should be 13-14" above the water when the boat is in its normal trim.

There is a Caprice in the boat yard. I'll have look at it if I get the chance and photo the outboard bracket.

I agree with the diagnosis that the carb probably needs cleaning.

The cooling water flow from the telltale sounds low. Start by checking that is not just the telltale that is blocked. If the water flow is genuinely bad then it may need a new pump impeller ... or the system might be blocked!

You should be able download an owners manual for it from HERE. There is a year identifier there as well which will enable you to identify the year from the serial number.

The manual will tell you the fuel mix but I would try to run it on 50:1 even if the manual says 100:1!

You should be able to find some parts diagrams which will help with any work necessary at http://www.boats.net/

Check the gear box oil before you use it. It should be clear and bright if there is no water in it.

 

[oldharry]

My old Caprice had a short shaft engine, and sailed it that way for the three years I had it. Yes the prop was out of the water if I went forward, but its a small boat, and I am a big(ish - well Ok, big!) bloke.

Great little boat to learn on and at the price you paid is bound to need a bit of 'fettling', particularly if you want to sail single handed. I have always set up my boats so one person (me) can handle them. Not because I was on my own, but with small children aboard, we reckoned one of us always had to be able to look after the boat unaided. Nowadays, she can no longer cope with sailing because of her arthritis, so I single hand because i have to.

And I never yet bought a boat (and I have had many) that was either 'right' or complete, from day one.

 

[wot]

Cyrex,

Do as Brigantia suggests and check your Main to see if it's been converted to slab reefing, if it hasn't PM me your address and I'll send you my Reefing handle and the next time I'm in your neck of the woods you can buy me a pint and a pasty. ( If you offer me a gingster though I'll take the handle back!)
I'll guarentee however that the first time you try to reef you'll wish you'd converted to slab reefing.
I tried to reef once with the roller boom on my Caprice, what a palaver, I'm sure that there are some experts who can do it, but I'm not one of them.
Changed it immdiately to slab reefing and set it up for single line reefing, so that it can all be done from the cockpit - safely.

 

[Cloona]

love roller reefing on the boom - so simple

 

[VicS]

love roller reefing on the boom - so simple

Some work well some dont. If they work well they are Ok

Mine was the same as the OP's. Converted to slab reefing long ago ( I still got the handle though!)

 

[Giblets]

Cyrex, dear chap, fret not.

I recently bought my little Leisure 17 (my first ever sailing boat) for cash after a couple of onshore viewings. Didn't even bother to put it in the water and go out for a trial. Some may say this was foolish but after having given the boat a thorough inspection (too much can be hidden when it's afloat) I knew that, with a boat of her age - 1976, certain little bits and bobs would need doing to get the boat as I wanted her (this process is still ongoing ). I also wanted a "project" to enable me to learn all about the boat and her little foibles and make her my own after many years of sailing on other people's boats.

The items you list that you are unhappy with are, no doubt, a disappointment but in the greater scheme of things you will enjoy her more as you sort out her little problems. It was some five weeks after getting Booby that I put her in the water for the first time even though she was "ready to go" when I bought her which she was, relatively speaking.

The outboard that came with her was an old Johnson Seahorse 2-stroke s/s of doubtful history that sat on an adjustable bracket on the stern that was seized solid and would not go up & down even with my 70+kg hanging off it. So the o/b was sold on eBay, a new Tohatsu l/s purchased and a new bracket fitted as my main priority was an engine that I could trust not to let me down at a critical moment.

The internal wiring was a total mess so this has been ripped out and is in the process of being replaced.

The running rigging is tired and will be replaced.

The sails are tired but serviceable for the time being.

All these items (apart from the o/b bracket) I knew about when I bought her but, IMHO, half the fun of owning a boat is the tweaking, adjusting, repairing and fettling to make her my own. If I had wanted to go off sailing straight away I would have bought a new boat (although probably not as the cost would have been too high )

At least she is yours and paid for. I wonder how many others can say that!

Enjoy!

 

[Lakesailor]

I've had two boats with roller boom reefing, but never had a handle. My last boat didn't have any form of reefing.
Not ideal I realise, but on a lake you just go home if it gets too breezy.

Tree surgeon? no probs buzzing a bit off the top off the outboard pad then! Seriously, there are no issues with drilling holes lower for the bracket. Use Sikaflex to bed the bracket/seal the holes. If it's a 4hp you'll have neutral. I say this because it means you can start the engine and warm it up. Stop the engine and do your foredeck stuff, then start the engine again and cast off, safe in the knowledge it's going to start. You can rig a running warp so that you can cast off from the cockpit.

As others have said a good clean of the carb required. If you have an air line that is the best way. I've never heard of anyone blocking jets using an airline. Cutting out could be a sticking float valve (you won't have them on chainsaws) or a blocked breather on the tank. Don't do repairs hanging over the stern. You WILL drop bits in the water.

 

[bignick]

As others have said a good clean of the carb required. If you have an air line that is the best way. I've never heard of anyone blocking jets using an airline.

It is the best way generally, bit I know it is possible but when I did it it was already pretty well blocked.....

 

[William_H]

New boat

Lots of good advice here.
Don't beat up on yourself or the seller it is just the way it is with boats. They are not a car where everything is standard and should be as expected.
Your biggest mistake was committing to a 2 day trip without trying out the boat and getting used to it.
Small boats change a lot in pitch with weight (person ) movement. I have an ob bracket that will lift the ob by about 12 inches from low to high. It has 3 positions and I use them all. Low for picking up mooring with a person on the bow. medium for rough water and high for fast smooth water. I have a long shaft however the main advantage there is that the controls and start cord end up higher and easier to reach. A short shaft would have to be lower down.
As said you can cut the wooden base down to lower engine by perhaps an inch or 2. You can drill more holes in the transom or perhaps new holes in the bracket. Or as a last resort get an LS.
Good luck with the new boat it is time to start looking forward to making it the way you want it. olewill

 

[Fantasie 19]

Do not feel so bad we all make mistakes ,try to get an o/b engine bracket that will let the shaft go lower into the water that will make a big difference.look for a bracket know as a EEZ-IN manufactured by GARELICK Mfg.co you must still enjoy yourself and let no one steal your JOY!

Stupid question I know - but hey ho here goes... do you have the outboard bracket at it's lowest setting??? Mine's in a well in the cockpit so nothing to adjust, but just thinking that as a new owner you may not realise the bracket goes up and down?? Apologies...

Another thought - why not ask the previous owner if he/she'll come out with you for a sail - so you can see how everything "goes together"??

 

[Fantasie 19]

love roller reefing on the boom - so simple

Couldn't agree more - so easy, and I sail solo most of the time....

I'll change to slab reefing at some time, but with my mast set up, and the simplicity of the current system, it's low on the list of priorities..

 

[CyrexC]

Wow! This forum is amazing!
Very pleased with the response and all the advice that has been given, especially when my initial post was me in a not so happy mood! After reading all the reply's and having a good nights sleep i feel happy again and pleased with my purchase.

I will go down this afternoon to take a look at the carb. I have not got an air-line and i would like to do the work on the boat as it would be a struggle to take it ashore on my own. Is there anything i should remember when i do this to avoid rowing ashore again for something i have forgotten?

Although i work with 2-stroke engines everyday, over the years i have found that i have not needed to do many repairs when used and maintained correctly so i have rarely had to strip one down. I have one chainsaw that has been used daily for 9 years and i have only ever replaced the bar, chain and fuel! I imagine outboards my be different as exposed to different elements.

To answer a couple of questions, the ob bracket is folded down when i use it and doesn't go down anymore, and it isn't set up for slab reefing (Wot, p.m on its way)
The guy i bought it off said he never reefed and just motored home if it got too much, he must have had more faith in the ob!

I also intend to put in just enough ballast at the rear of the boat so i can sit comfortably in the cockpit when motoring. I have a good place to put it but am not sure what to use. Would a couple of sandbags be a good idea? Looking for a cheap and quick method.

I will try to post a couple of photos tomorrow of the outboard in working position.

Thanks again for all the time taken to give me great advice. I am in the falmouth/penryn area. I would be happy to buy beer/lunch in exchange for any sailing advice and wisdom from anyone in the area. I have no friends or family remotely interested so it has been a lonely hobby so far!

 

[VicS]

Be cautious about ballasting the stern as you suggest. It could have a bad effect on the boat when sailing! But if you are always single handed the weight of 1 person under the cockpit sole might just do the trick.

Sand bags would tend to soak up and hold water but would be worth the experiment while you made some concrete blocks or cast some lead weights if the idea is succesful.

The real answer is a long shaft outboard.... practically everyone with a small sailing cruiser will tell you that ... preferably a "sail" version which will have a more suitable propeller as well.

I used to have a short shaft engine ... hopeless in a bit of a chop .. I had to sail when windy ... no chance of using the engine.

I replaced it with a ( more powerful) Evinrude Yachtwin which fits on a standard height bracket but puts the big bladed, fine pitch prop 5" deeper.
It also has the exhaust outlet higher to prevent back pressure and to give good reverse thrust.



Look at the carb diagrams I gave you a link to before stripping it down. If you do it on the boat make sure you do it where you cannot loose any small bits if you drop them. ( anything dropped in the cockpit only ever bounces once ... then goes down a drain! )
You might need a carb over haul kit.

It's standing idle with petrol in them that causes outboard carbs to gum up. In daily use they won't!

 

[ghostlymoron]

'Modern 2 strokes run on a mix as lean as 100:1 for my Mariner, but many recommend 50:1 for those. As far as I know, too much oil will just make the engine smokey.'

Too much oil also causes the mixture to be 'lean' as some of the petrol is replaced by oil. If you run on a different mix to that specified you will have to adjust the carburetter.

 

[bignick]

Just another idea, I'm not familiar with the boat you're talking about, but if it has an anchor well in the bow that is full of anchor and chain then it may be worth moving this to somewhere on top of the keel, or even the stern in preference to adding sandbags.
I'm a firm believer in keeping unnecessary weight off a boat wherever possible - it could have unintended consequences, especially if it moves when your boat is heeled while sailing!
"Just add lightness", as Colin Chapman would have said.

If you're going to strip anything off the outboard then make sure you remove the engine from the transom and do it in the cockpit - you're almost certain to drop something vital in the water if you don't. If you've got as far as taking it off the transom then I generally prefer to work in the comfort of my garage, where I have tools, light and coffee! If this isn't practical then by all means do it on the boat, but somewhere where you're not going to lose bits. Its normally possible to remove the carb as a complete unit - you could always take this to your chainsaw place and let them have a look.

Is it one with an integral tank, or remote (on a hose)? If its remote then you can check for fuel starvation issues (collapsed hose / blockage) by giving the bulb a squeeze if the engine sounds like its about to stall.

 

[Hardley]

No keep weight out of the ends of boat.