I cannot be only one with Nav Light angle problem ?

[Refueler]

My boat has typical pulpit and has mounting plates as part of the fwd leg eaxh side. The nav lights were matching stainless teardrop shaped ...

The nav lights were angled to suit those plates. Over the years - the backing and seals went and lights were replaced with common lights - but then the angle was wrong.

I created 3D print correctors to angle each one back out but I'm not really happy with this.

I've searched online and cannot find any nav lights that have angled mount face .... plenty of nice teardrop shaped but not angled.

Anyone else with such ??

I have considered fitting a dual (P + S) light to hang under the pulpit ..... but would really like to have the original split lights if possible.

 

[Bilgediver]

Nice varnished teak wedges might be the answer in a nautical manner.

 

[Refueler]

Nice varnished teak wedges might be the answer in a nautical manner.

Has crossed my mind ... but you would be surprised how much an angle is needed .... cannot remember offhand ... but its significant.

I have the old 'cases' of the original lights but the coloured lenses are 'blurred' and loose ... with only one back plate left. I might talk to my Metals Master guy - see if he can fashion new back plates etc. While I try clean up lenses.
I would also have to install new lamp holders in them ... (before the 'experts' chime in - I am well aware of light specifications etc) .... I have various old nav lights that could easily provide holders to adapt.

Next winter project ?? Once I'm mobile again.

 

[Bilgediver]

Has crossed my mind ... but you would be surprised how much an angle is needed .... cannot remember offhand ... but its significant.

I have the old 'cases' of the original lights but the coloured lenses are 'blurred' and loose ... with only one back plate left. I might talk to my Metals Master guy - see if he can fashion new back plates etc. While I try clean up lenses.
I would also have to install new lamp holders in them ... (before the 'experts' chime in - I am well aware of light specifications etc) .... I have various old nav lights that could easily provide holders to adapt.

Next winter project ?? Once I'm mobile again.

It is surprising how many people with these lights ignore the angle problem. At least you are trying to correct it.

Your metal worker might be able to correct the angle of the back plate by making a cut almost all the way horizontally from the back towards the bow level with the top of the lamp and then welding in a triangular piece of stainless to hold the bracket firmly parallel to the boat centre line.

 

[bedouin]

I created 3D print correctors to angle each one back out but I'm not really happy with this.

I've searched online and cannot find any nav lights that have angled mount face .... plenty of nice teardrop shaped but not angled.

I would be very surprised if you found any ready made with the correct angle for your pulpit. What is wrong with the 3D printed wedges? If you go for one of the smaller - more upright styles rather than a tear drop then the wedge will need to stand out a lot less from the mounting plate. You can get lights that are only about 40mm deep and that would imply wedges of a manageable size

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

A pair of stainless steel rectangles of suitable dimensions bent into a 'V' shape, with the required angle between the legs, and drilled to accommodate bolting to the light on one leg and bolting to the original fixing holes on the other.
Solved in one sentence, (but, technically it's not a sentence?).

 

[Minchsailor]

I had the same problem (Nicholson 32). Made up a pair of perspex wedges.

 

[Buck Turgidson]

Have you measured the actual scatter of the light?
I think you are addressing a problem that only you can perceive .

 

[Refueler]

It is surprising how many people with these lights ignore the angle problem. At least you are trying to correct it.

Your metal worker might be able to correct the angle of the back plate by making a cut almost all the way horizontally from the back towards the bow level with the top of the lamp and then welding in a triangular piece of stainless to hold the bracket firmly parallel to the boat centre line.

Its crossed my mind to get him to look ....

I do have some plastic teardrop which I could hotwire cut ... but then I need to recreate sealing plate.

Anyway - all suggestions are appreciated.

My 3D wedges .... they have failed as I didn't include enough 'infill' to try and keep them lightweight. I am thinking to 3D with 100% infill ...

 

[Refueler]

Have you measured the actual scatter of the light?
I think you are addressing a problem that only you can perceive .

Are you digging at me again ?

The lights when viewed from ahead have definite 'overlap' that is unacceptable. Because boat sits on my home mooring with pontoon ... I can also check side angle and light cuts off well before it should when moving aft.

 

[Refueler]

A pair of stainless steel rectangles of suitable dimensions bent into a 'V' shape, with the required angle between the legs, and drilled to accommodate bolting to the light on one leg and bolting to the original fixing holes on the other.
Solved in one sentence, (but, technically it's not a sentence?).

In the list ... tks

 

[Refueler]

I would be very surprised if you found any ready made with the correct angle for your pulpit. What is wrong with the 3D printed wedges? If you go for one of the smaller - more upright styles rather than a tear drop then the wedge will need to stand out a lot less from the mounting plate. You can get lights that are only about 40mm deep and that would imply wedges of a manageable size

The lights on there now are the typical Hella / Lazilas 'square' type and that means the 3D wedge if kept to size of light has extreme angle being short.
The teardrop lights are 2x longer and that means same angle of course but the length is greater making more stable. If you go back to the photo you will see the square lights ...

 

[Martin_J]

I'd get one of those Black and Decker work benches like Sarabande asked about in the other thread and make a couple of hardwood wedges ...



Perhaps Sarabande can cut a few if he gets one!!

Acrylic ones sound like a good idea as well .

As to the cut off angles.. You're perfectly right in that with a vertical filament, they do have to be mounted at the correct angle.

 

[noelex]

This is a very common problem. It is usually easily fixed with some suitable wedges, but few seem to bother.

The arc of the nav lights needs to be accurate. Glad you are making the correction.

 

[Frank Holden]

Cut of the steel mounting plates - weld them back on with them aligned fore and aft. Simples.

 

[Refueler]

I'd get one of those Black and Decker work benches like Sarabande asked about in the other thread and make a couple of hardwood wedges ...

View attachment 139640

Perhaps Sarabande can cut a few if he gets one!!

Acrylic ones sound like a good idea as well .

As to the cut off angles.. You're perfectly right in that with a vertical filament, they do have to be mounted at the correct angle.

I have two B&D workmates ..... and a full modelmakers workshop ...

 

[Refueler]

Cut of the steel mounting plates - weld them back on with them aligned fore and aft. Simples.

A solution that I did consider ... but when I aligned a straight edge to see angle .... it would mean backplates with ends outside rail .... the angle to correct is too great to keep plate within rails

 

[Frank Holden]

Weld the leading edge of the plates to the vertical that they are currently just frd of?

 

[LittleSister]

Nice varnished teak wedges might be the answer in a nautical manner.

Better still, unvarnished teak wedges - less preparation, less maintenance, and once they go grey they will blend with the stainless pulpit and be almost unnoticeable.

Has crossed my mind ... but you would be surprised how much an angle is needed .... cannot remember offhand ... but its significant.

I have the old 'cases' of the original lights but the coloured lenses are 'blurred' and loose ... with only one back plate left. I might talk to my Metals Master guy - see if he can fashion new back plates etc. While I try clean up lenses.
I would also have to install new lamp holders in them ... (before the 'experts' chime in - I am well aware of light specifications etc) .... I have various old nav lights that could easily provide holders to adapt.

Next winter project ?? Once I'm mobile again.

I think you are overthinking it. (How do I know? I'm an expert at overthinking things! )

Make something simple and visually recessive (e.g. the 'weathered' teak wedges mentioned above), and mount (new?) standard side lamps on that. Easily done in an afternoon or less. It doesn't matter if the front of the wedge projects beyond the tubing - you won't notice it after a while, and likely no-one else will notice it in the first place. Then go sailing!

 

[William_H]

Or a completely new approach. if you have an existing nav light fitting perhaps with incandescent festoon bulb filament vertical then you may be able to move the bulb (filament) forward so that the side arc angle becomes correct even with the body at an angle.
Or better still replace the bulb with a stack of LED (diodes) preferably green and red emitting (from Christmas lights) but white might be OK. The diodes are mounted to face forward through to sideways to get the correct angle of radiation. While you are at it set up the top and bottom LED to point down and up to allow for correct radiation when heeled.
A bit complicated perhaps but all indoor sport while you are not mobile. I built 2 like this for use as emergency Nav lights with 5 LED in each run off a single lithium cell. Seem to be ok. ol'will