hydrovane mounting pads

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RJJ

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Hi all

Fitting our new hydrovane in a couple of weeks' time. Regarding the external mounting on our sugar scoop, we need mounting plates shaped to fit the transom (which isn't a perfectly flat surface, but nearly so).

Hydrovane recommend the teak mountings and sand / shape them to fit.

Is that the best route? Does anyone have any other guidance or suggestions? Thanks
 
Our surface was not too curved so we taped some top quality sandpaper, grade 40 initially, I recall, to the transom. and carefully sanded the teak blocks to the right contour thus using the actual transom as the template. A thin layer of sikaflex under the blocks sorted out any minor imperfections. 6 years later all good. Good luck Phil
 
PTB said:
Our surface was not too curved so we taped some top quality sandpaper, grade 40 initially, I recall, to the transom. and carefully sanded the teak blocks to the right contour thus using the actual transom as the template. A thin layer of sikaflex under the blocks sorted out any minor imperfections. 6 years later all good. Good luck Phil
Click to expand...
Thanks Phil - so pretty easy, it sounds?
 
Well, that bit was quite easy to get the 'contour'. The more tricky bit , if you have the fixed mounts rather than the articulated mounts, is to get the angles right on the teak blocks so the shaft is vertical when fitted. I used an adjustable set square and spirit levels, but you might find apps for a phone that do the same thing. It was more accurate getting these angles with the boat afloat, even if you subsequently fit the gear with her ashore. All in all it wasnt difficult but quite time consuming to get it all spot on.
On the inside where the backing plates go I used some 20mm marine ply bedded on a plastic bag containing an epoxy /filler mix .. this just squeezed and set to the concave contour on the inside of the transom. It allowed me to ensure the fixing bolts were perpendicular to the backing plate. Cut off the surplus before it sets fully. If its already pretty flat surface then sikaflex would probably be ok. Finish with some substantial washers and or al or ss plate.
I havnt looked at the HV website for a while but I'm sure they will have some tips there as well. P
 
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Exactly as PTB describes -
I scribed the transom curve with two blobs of blu tak and a pencil then a 36grit grizzly disc in an angle grinder v quickly put the concave into the mating face of the wood block .
Sikaflex the lot , of course
 
PTB said:
Well, that bit was quite easy to get the 'contour'. The more tricky bit , if you have the fixed mounts rather than the articulated mounts, is to get the angles right on the teak blocks so the shaft is vertical when fitted. I used an adjustable set square and spirit levels, but you might find apps for a phone that do the same thing. It was more accurate getting these angles with the boat afloat, even if you subsequently fit the gear with her ashore. All in all it wasnt difficult but quite time consuming to get it all spot on.
On the inside where the backing plates go I used some 20mm marine ply bedded on a plastic bag containing an epoxy /filler mix .. this just squeezed and set to the concave contour on the inside of the transom. It allowed me to ensure the fixing bolts were perpendicular to the backing plate. Cut off the surplus before it sets fully. If its already pretty flat surface then sikaflex would probably be ok. Finish with some substantial washers and or al or ss plate.
I havnt looked at the HV website for a while but I'm sure they will have some tips there as well. P
Click to expand...
Thanks, actually going for an A bracket so the angles are a bit less critical.

Good tips otherwise, thank yoi
 
Blueboatman said:
Exactly as PTB describes -
I scribed the transom curve with two blobs of blu tak and a pencil then a 36grit grizzly disc in an angle grinder v quickly put the concave into the mating face of the wood block .
Sikaflex the lot , of course
Click to expand...
Sorry, sounds a bit technical for me...

Could I please ask you to expand on the blu tack and pencil bit?
 
Oh sorry
Place the straight sided block in its intended location . It will rock side to side . So put a dab of blu tak under each edge to stop it rocking . The middle part should now touch the transom , yes ?
Now lay a pencil flat on the transom with the tip touching the timber pad , drag it right around the pad and you will leave a neat line all around the pad indicating the finished desired shape . Grind with angle grinder to remove wood ‘ down to the line’ .
Suggest having a practise on an old block of softwood just to verify that I’m not talking misunderstandings at you !?
 
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Blueboatman said:
Oh sorry
Place the straight sided block in its intended location . It will rock side to side . So put a dab of blu tak under each edge to stop it rocking . The middle part should now touch the transom , yes ?
Now lay a pencil flat on the transom with the tip touching the timber pad , drag it right around the pad and you will leave a neat line all around the pad indicating the finished desired shape . Grind with angle grinder to remove wood ‘ down to the line’ .
Suggest having a practise on an old block of softwood just to verify that I’m not talking misunderstandings at you !?
Click to expand...
Gr8! V clear
 
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