Hydrosol woodsealer

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Has anyone used Burgess Hydrosol Woodsealer ?
I have let the teak doghouse sides go natural because the teak oil went black. I prefer the oiled look but not if it goes black or needs a lot of maintenance.
Will this stuff give me an oiled finish that doesnt go black?
 
I have used Burgess, but found it weathered off really quickly. Which brand of teak oil did you use? In Falmouth I'd go to the cheapskates chandler of choice - trago - and get some Rustins Teak Oil. It soaks in quite well, takes a bloody age to dry right off, but gives a fairly deep shine which lasts well. A very cursory key with 200 ish grit paper at the start of the season, and three quick coats (on my wheelhouse I start on one corner and just keep going round, with the occassional cuppa in the middle) gives a finish which will easily last a season with just minor topping up on places regularly worn by sheets etc. If you like a less glossy finish then the same brand's Danish Oil works just as well but with less of a sheen. From memory about £6 for a litre tin. Worth checking out...
 
I have used it for 6 years. It does not go black and is very good at protecting wood, but with numerous coats it does end up looking more like a brown paint finish. I will continue useing it because it is so quick to do, one coat after another. Easy to do 5 or 6 coats in a few hours and then job is finished (assuming new wood, 2 or 3 coats on previosly coated surface).
 
I am suprised you used 5 or 6 coats. Don't the instructions suggest one or two ?
I used it on exposed wood with great success for several years and it did not need touching up, but never on Teak. Did a brilliant job on an old pine mast.
Ken
 
Re: In a word...

Name Names...........go on name names! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

OK it's me that uses it /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif but only and I will state that again "ONLY" with top gloss to protect it.
It will protect the wood for a period of time but once topglossed it will last for years.

PM if you want some info

Tom /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Re: In a word...

Oh, all right then - Richard Hare - he of the varnish test - which showed Coelan to be good stuff...

But to me it looks as if several coats of Brown Windsor Soup have been applied!
 
I use the hydroseal and it seems fine.

There are three types;
One that is a little bit brown - designed to prevent UV damage.
One that is clear - designed for wood not UV exposed
One that is Gloss - designed to go over the other two types and give a gloss finish.

So now I have used the exterior ( brown tinted ) one for a couple of seasons, the plan is to make the next bottle will be the clear so I won't get a build up of brown - as it already has the UV blockers from the first lot.

Not really fussed about the Gloss finish, but it might be worth it if it makes last longer as Tom Littleship says.

Any comments on this plan are more than welcome.

David
 
Re:Burgess woodsealer

I use a lot of it - but with one rule: NOWHERE VISIBLE! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif The finish is unattractive, so it goes behind any varnished bits or in lockers, on cleating, etc.
Tried the gloss some years ago but found it bubbled if you "work" it so gave it up (maybe they've changed the formula since then?).
 
Re:Burgess woodsealer

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I might try the Rustins Danish oil, but then again just might leave it...decisions, decisions.
 
Just to confirm other posters. Burgess is a thinnish brown paint. IT looks horrible on teak. Its opaque after a few layers so kills the appearance of the teak.
I use Rustins with reasonable success. IT does wear off and weather off. The trick is to wipe onanother coat before the water gets in and starts blackening or greying the teak. Its also very difficult to get off fibreglass once its hardened off. Its quite runny so runs are likely. Have a cloth and some white spirit to clean up spills quickly.
For cleaning grey teak before you oil it I found this year that, instead of dry scraping it with a skarsten scraper, it was easier to attack with a stainless steel pot scourer (available in any Swedish supermarket) and water with washing up liquid.
Caution. You do get a lot of teak flour this way so its better where the teak is NOT wafer thin.
 
Re:Burgess woodsealer

"The finish is unattractive"

If this is what you call unattractive...........then I agree!

Table_floor.thumb.jpg


Tom /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Thanks Roger. Yes I use stainless scourers too, also green synthetic ones. Teak is an inch thick so no prob there!
Will prob try Rustins, if i dont like it I'll go back to natural.
 
Re: In a word...

Have to agree with you!! Yuck, tried it once!!! Yuck! Wont have it near the boat, probably good for garden fences.
 
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