Hunter horizon outboard well - blanking plate?

Steve A69

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I recently acquired a fairly old hunter horizon 23. I had read in the very useful yachts-net archive on this model that it was built with a “ blanking plate” to fair the hull when the outboard is up. The seller ( third owner) told me he had never had one in his time. Can anyone confirm that the archive is correct and if so any ideas about where I might get one or how I might go about making one? Thanks all.
 
I looked at an outboard Impala years ago the, the blanking 'plate' was more like a GRP box with the top open and the bottom shaped to match the hull, and a handle on the top.
I think the sides of the box would come above the waterline but I could be wrong.
 
I looked at an outboard Impala years ago the, the blanking 'plate' was more like a GRP box with the top open and the bottom shaped to match the hull, and a handle on the top.
I think the sides of the box would come above the waterline but I could be wrong.
The blanking plate on my brother's Impala was just a grp plate which copied the hull shape and had a ~40mm flange running around the edge to retain it; it was retained by a stainless steel tube that attached to the plate with a hinge(axis orientated fore and aft) which was pushed(pulled?) down by a 2:1 pulley & a clam cleat system that hooked over the upper end of the tube.

Can anyone confirm that the archive is correct and if so any ideas about where I might get one or how I might go about making one? Thanks all.
The easiest way to make one would be to borrow one, take a mould from it and then use the mould to laminate a new one. If you can't find one to borrow it's going to be a case of bodging some plywood into some approximation of the shape, generously coating with a load of filler and going at it with rasps and then sanders until it's the right shape, then making a mould as above etc.
 
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If you can't find an existing one to use as a mould it's not difficult to make your own mould. Obtain a piece of thin flexible aluminium e.g. one of these and tape it over the outside of the aperture such that it follows the hull's curvature and lay up fibreglass csm and resin onto this from inside. Put several layers of masking tape around the aperture to give a clearance and coat this and the aluminium with release agent. Build up the grp to the same thickness as the boat's skin (at least round the edges) and overlay the csm by about 1" all round to form a flange. Allow to cure, trim and you're done. Rig a retaining cord to stop you losing it when you're maneuvering it round the raised outboard's leg.

The Hunter Horizon 23 is a very good boat IMHO.
 
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If you can't find an existing one to use as a mould it's not difficult to make your own mould. Obtain a piece of thin flexible aluminium e.g. one of these and tape it over the outside of the aperture such that it follows the hull's curvature and lay up fibreglass csm and resin onto this from inside. Put several layers of masking tape around the aperture to give a clearance and coat this and the aluminium with release agent. Build up the grp to the same thickness as the boat's skin (at least round the edges) and overlay the csm by about 1" all round to form a flange. Allow to cure, trim and you're done. Rig a retaining cord to stop you losing it when you're maneuvering it round the raised outboard's leg.

The Hunter Horizon 23 is a very good boat IMHO.
That is fantastic, thank you Jim C. And thanks to all who have replied v. helpful - as was the Hunter association as well.
 
The advise you have above is excellent- this how I made mine. It does make a big difference. I would add a hole in the lower starboard edge to let the water drain out . I placed a reverse scoop on the outside of the hole to create a vortex to "pull"the water out - think dingy self bailer. Somedays I really miss my H23 I covered thousands of miles in it single handed.
tross
 
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