Hunter Horizon 272/3 - Views and Problems

wytco0

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I have the Horizon on my short list and having seen a couple they seem pretty good fit for me. I am starting to research them in a bit more detail.

I have been told that at some point there were problems with Hunters relating to resin but I cannot find any details of this. I looked at the Hunter Association but they don't have anything on the public areas of their site. I want to know when they had this problem and which boats are affected.

Also does anyone have any experience of a Horizon 272 type there isn't much on the forum.
 
I had a Hunter Horizon 272 for several years and it was a great boat - no problems with the hull at all. I sold it when I bought my current Hunter Channel 323.

Here is the response from Hunters - or Select Yachts as they were at the time - to issue you refer to:

Firstly - and most importantly - we are unaware of any Hunter boats that have had an osmosis problem. What has happened to some boats built in the mid/late 1990's is that the layer of resin between the gel coat and the sealant of the core can turn into an isophthalic state - i.e. semi-liquid. The condition will sometimes show as blistering and can result in a high moisture reading which is the same as a boat with osmosis - but that condition is where the hull laminates are breaking down and is detrimental to the hull's strength and integrity, whilst the isophthalic resin is somewhat unsightly but is a cosmetic and not a structural problem.

There is no explanation that anyone can give as to why this has happened to some boats and why not in others. Some boats showed signs after moving into different waters several years after they left the factory - others show absolutely no signs and some showed symptoms fairly quickly after they were launched. Once the condition was seen Hunters changed the gel and seal products that they had been using even though they were using the highest quality levels that were available.

There is no 'start' or 'stop' date for boats with this condition - but it has only been seen in boats made in the mid to late 1990's. I have the records that Hunters have kept of all boats built in this period with comments added whenever we have had contact from an owner. Where we have no information it does not mean that the reaction has/ will not occur - just that we have no record of anything, but it suggests that nothing has needed treatment as owners are usually in contact to understand what has happened and what needs to be done.

I have attached a document that covers the treatment necessary to remove the gel / seal layers where the reaction occurs to give you some more information.

I hope that this is of some help to you - I am sorry that we cannot give you a definitive list of boats with the problem - but the reaction does not occur in any predictable fashion.


The document referred to is as follows:

HUNTER BOATS LTD
ISOPHTHALIC RESIN - TREATMENT SPECIFICATION
These instructions are provided without prejudice.
1. Take measurements of the boot-top line so it may be reinstated after
completion of the work.
2. Both gelcoat and skin coat should be peeled.
• The approximate depth will be 1.7mm with the exception of the centre line,
where the skin coats from each side overlap (as do the gelcoats). There is
likely to be a distinct change in appearance from the affected skin coat to
the underlying chopped-strand layer (which has a different resin and will be
in good order).
• It is essential that the faulty skin coat layer be completely removed below
and above static waterline, as blistering will otherwise reoccur.
• The peeling should be taken up to (as high as possible) to the UPPER edge of
the boottop tape. Hunter Boats can provide offsets detailing the
repositioning of the antifouling line from the boot-top if required (this is not
parallel around the quarter). On some models there may be a need to take
the skin coat replacement higher at the quarter due to their shape. For
example, on models with quarter chines it may be necessary to take it up to
the chine.
• The affected skin coat, when exposed, may show obvious signs of hydrolysis
(it would be criss-crossed with milky-looking strands). The main laminate
beneath, after planning, will look like a normal new laminate with just the
surface fibres glinting in the light and appearing totally translucent.
However, whether the visual difference is obvious or not, there will be a
dramatic reduction in wetness once the skin coat has been removed. It
should be virtually dry if the skin coat has been totally removed.
• Only the hull bottom should be treated – neither the rudder, which if GRP is of
a different resin, nor the keel(s) will be affected.
3. Use an angle grinder to remove any remaining sectors of skin coat. Then lightly
grit-blast the surface.
4. Steam clean or thoroughly wash the hull at least once a week, together with
drying in a heated workshop until the moisture levels have dropped and
stabilised at 4 or less on the 0.25 scale of the Sovereign moisture meter (or
equivalent). The process should take much less time than an osmosis case,
providing the skin coat has been thoroughly removed.
5. The bottom should be re-laminated with 440gm glass cloth using the epoxy resin;
Hunter Boats recommends WEST system as this has produced more satisfactory
results than other systems. The laminate should be free of voids and peel-ply
should be applied.
6. When sufficiently cured, remove the peel-ply and lightly abrade and degrease
the surface; fill and fair as necessary.


I would have thought that any problems on a specific boat that were likely to occur would have showed up by now. If you want any other info on the 272/3 then drop me a PM with any specific questions and I'll try to answer them.

Hope this helps.
 
Hunter Horizon 272/3

Try the Hunter owners association www.hunterassociation.org.uk for advice. I used to own a Horizon 232 and it was a good boat - very easy to single hand with the self tacker. I have also sailed on a 273 several times and that had very similar sailing characteristics. As far as I know the osmosis problem Hunters had was for a short time in the early 90's when they changed resin suppliers - all the boats affected would have been treated by now (probably under warranty). I would recommend finding a well finished one as some of the interior finishing on the kit built ones can be a bit below par (all depends on the DIY skill of the original owner).
 
we had a hunter 272 for several years and also previously a delta 25 lift keel - simple solid boats which we found sailed well and were easy to look after - happy memories of each of them and nothing but praise for hunters - worth looking at as many as possible as we found quite a variety in terms of quality of completion (cosmetic) as some diy finished - good luck
 
I
Also does anyone have any experience of a Horizon 272 type there isn't much on the forum.

We have a 1990 Horizon 27/TK - for the past seven years.

I've pimped it a bit (heating, fridge, electrics & sails) but have had no particular problems† for family Solent/Poole sailing - it does what I expected of it nicely, but is getting a bit cramped as the children get bigger....

†Reseal windows & replace Yanmar exhaust elbow are probably not model-specific.
 
Also does anyone have any experience of a Horizon 272 type there isn't much on the forum.

I've had my 273 since 2008, hardly a difference between the 272/273. It's a great boat sails really well and easily singlehanded. The accommodation layout is fantastic for a boat of this size . . . . . I might be a bit biased

If you have done your research you may well have already come across these vids



 
Differences between the Horizon 272 and 273

Does anyone know what are the differences between the Hunter Horizon 272 and 273.

I know they are very similar but I woudl like to know whats different.
 
As far as I know, the only difference is that the 272 has the older style blue interior and the 273 has a white interior.
 
Had a 272 twin keel for about 6 years, good boat and i used to do quite well at racing it in my club, although a little slow off the wind but point exceedingly well for a twin keel.
I had the genoa rather than the self tacker version which i was glad of, but if you are after relaxed cruising rather than maximising performance then the self tacker would be advantageous.
The osmosis / wicking, call it what you want affected more than just a few boats and it went on for about 4 - 5 years, lots of info on the hunter owners site about it, i believe very few were actually sorted under warranty.
The hull on mine was covered in tiny wicking blisters that never got any worse and were to small to notice when antifouled, they never caused an issue other than when i first spotted them, my surveyor said just forget about it as it will be 20 years before they may be of any concern, i cant say if this is right as i sold the boat.
So in summary good simple boats, fore berth is useless except for a child and aft berth is very tight for two, check the hull carefully and do your research and all should be well.
 
Had a 272 twin keel for about 6 years, good boat and i used to do quite well at racing it in my club, although a little slow off the wind but point exceedingly well for a twin keel.


Thanks for the info, the 272/273 is firmly at the top of my short list at the moment although they are a bit more expensive that I was hoping to pay.

I really like them I like the open cabin gives a feeing of space. Great layout for 1-2 people but I wouldn't want to have more than that staying on board for long.
 
Interesting Isaw one yesterday that said 273 on the outside but which had blue cushions etc, Not sure whether the blue/white refers to the colour of the linings etc?

The 273 interior mouldings have a 'pale magnolia' gel coat colour rather than the pale blue of older models. Also, more importantly, the twin keels were redesigned by David Thomas with a new profile and bulbed bases (same ballast weight though). So the 273 is supposed to be a bit stiffer than earlier models.
 
The 273 interior mouldings have a 'pale magnolia' gel coat colour rather than the pale blue of older models. Also, more importantly, the twin keels were redesigned by David Thomas with a new profile and bulbed bases (same ballast weight though). So the 273 is supposed to be a bit stiffer than earlier models.

273 has the same bulbed profiled keel as the 272, it was the 26 that they were upgraded from.
 
The 273 interior mouldings have a 'pale magnolia' gel coat colour rather than the pale blue of older models. Also, more importantly, the twin keels were redesigned by David Thomas with a new profile and bulbed bases (same ballast weight though). So the 273 is supposed to be a bit stiffer than earlier models.

OK confirms it as a 273 then it was more magnolia than blue. Thanks.
 
Colours referred to:

272 interior:

CookerSink.jpg


323 interior (same colour as 273) - pic taken when boat was in build

GalleySinks.jpg
 
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