Hull/Topside joint.

plumbob

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 Oct 2009
Messages
1,672
Location
Bucks
Visit site
When we bought our new to us Broom, the survey indicated that the seal between the hull and deck should be" changed" at some point. The easiest way to do this would be to turn the boat upside down! Clearly not an option. Cutting the sealant out in itself is a real job and I wonder which mastic would be best. No signs of any water ingress anywhere, the only thing I can see is a little green in places. The joint is not uniform and at the widest is about 15mm. CT1??
 
When we bought our new to us Broom, the survey indicated that the seal between the hull and deck should be" changed" at some point. The easiest way to do this would be to turn the boat upside down! Clearly not an option. Cutting the sealant out in itself is a real job and I wonder which mastic would be best. No signs of any water ingress anywhere, the only thing I can see is a little green in places. The joint is not uniform and at the widest is about 15mm. CT1??

I had to do this on my bayliners as the hull deck joint is sika.d together and then the rubbing strip is part bolted and part screwed on. The pig of the job is getting to all the nuts, but otherwise it OK albeit time consuming.
Unbolt, rake out (most of) old stuff, squirt in new stuff and rebolt - do about a m at a time.

My sealines have both had the joint glassed over on the inside - clearly a far better job and the sealant is then just something to bed the rub rail onto.

I would find it extraordinary if brooms don't glass the 2 halves together. But I don't know.

Are you sure they don't just mean the (cosmetic) rub rail? If so a new rubber insert can transform appearance. The rub rail itself means getting to all those bolts.......
 
It's purely cosmetic and I am sure it's not even visible unless you get on your hands and knees on the pontoon, worry about it if you ever get a leak, Neil
 
I think, "at some point", is the operative phrase here. I have seen hundreds of house surveys where a surveyor has said that the roof will need replacing, "at some point", such that a buyer wants the full cost of a new roof off the price. We bought our house 10 years ago and it would have been easy for a surveyor to suggest the roof needs replacing, "at some point". It hasn't leaked in 10 years, and shows no sign of leaking or breaking down in the foreseeable future. "Some Point" doesn't arrive until the thing fails, (ideally, just before).

I would tend not to open a can of worms and, as suggested above, wait until you are forced to do it by circumstance.
 
Having done a couple of hull to deck joint refurbishments, both really horrible jobs I would go with Richard's suggestion and leave it until it causes a problem. That is unless you enjoy grovelling around for weeks on end!
 
I agree with richard10002 but if you do ultimately do the job then I would use one of the enhanced strength polyurethanes like 3M 5200, and not CT1. Also, it’s not that big a job: dead easy, like one man day, if you use a fein with a big caulk remover hook tool
 
Top