how would you tie on netting tightly ?

[simonfraser]

today i used rough ish 8mm rope to pull through the 10mm holes. my thinking was that i could hold it tight with a few fingers whilst i did the next bit. but it's not tight enough.
next try is going to be slippy 8mm rope and a mole grip to hold the rope whilst i set up the next bit.
sugestions gratefully recieved

 

[Gunfleet]

Truckers' hitch?

 

[boatbuilder]

Done lots and I use 12mm glass battens to weave through the net.
No matter how tight you think it is in 2 days time it will be baggy.
Its just a matter of constant tightening, it usually takes a couple of weeks.

 

[simonfraser]

a wot ?! i'll have to look that up, i guess it's a sub 4 the mole wrench ?

 

[simonfraser]

boatbuilder, u use glass battens to reduce the friction ?

 

[hlb]

Cable ties.

 

[boatbuilder]

Weave the batten about 3 squares into the net. Tighten the net using the battens to take the strain. tie off the lacings, and go back tomorrow and do the same again.

 

[Gunfleet]

basically, you put a loop in the cord, then use that and whatever you are tying on to to loop back and forth as a purchase. You can tie it off with half hitches round the whole shebang (technical term) but you may need a spike if you want to take the little loop out again. If you google it there are several versions

 

[Ruffles]

Are you tying netting to your guard rails?

I use removable cable ties (from Maplin) to temporarily attach the net top and bottom. This allows you to adjust the stretch.

Then lace on it with cord from B&Q removing the cable ties as you go.

This is my least favourite job on boat. I'd rather unlock the loo....

 

[Gunfleet]

Ahah... we're describing different things. You're right of course. The mention of molegrips made me think Simon was short of something taut he can tie his netting on to.

 

[simonfraser]

of course, loop, basic, that gives you a 1:2 purchase, a no brainer !

 

[simonfraser]

the mole grips are there to hold the line whilst i do the next bit

 

[BelleSerene]

The trick is to adjust the stretch of the netting: the higher your stanchions, the less far fore and aft the netting will reach on your boat. First, attach it temporarily with wire ties to the top guard rail, with a temporary string woven through the bottom from stanchion to stanchion to keep the lower edge taught. You'll then find you need to cut some wire ties one side of a stanchion and move them to the other. At least this is a few-second job with the wireties; no need to unweave the whole net.

Now mark the top loop of the netting either side of each stanchion with a coloured wire. Then you're ready to unclip the whole lot and do the permanent job. Loosen the guard rail and use the adjustable end as a weaving shuttle to go in and out of the netting. Whenever you get to a coloured wire tie, weave through a stanchion. Re-connect the guard rail.

Now make a permanent job of the lower line. You may want to put the odd hoop into the deck between stanchions if you don't have a perforated toerail.

Then remove the middle guardrail and weave it between hoops in the netting, inserting it through each stanchion at the appropriate point. Weaving the middle guardrail through the netting significantly increases its practical ability to stop things falling through it, and prevents it from unsightly sagging too.

Finally, do a smart job of tying each end of the netting to the last stanchion with white line and some contrivance of rolling hitches or whataver you come up with.

 

[simonfraser]

thanks, i was too eager, trying to sort it all out in one go. do a temp set and tie down to sort out the position and thightness, sound advise, thanks.