How to test the latching solenoid?

[DiamondHead]

I have the power switches equipped with a bidirectional solenoid which are connected to an ignition switch on dashboard. The ignition switch does not always work and I would like to test the operation of the power switches. I need some advice here as to how to test the solenoid. It has two wires. Any info is appreciated.
Rgds
Joe

 

[William_H]

I can't imagine how a bidirectional solenoid (or latching) would work. There is a type which you may be referring to which takes a pulse of power to operate the solenoid (and switch) which then remains operated by a latch until another pulse of power makes it release. Or another type with 2 solenoids coils one to operate and one to release.
Perhaps you can explain more. Or is that what you don't understand.

Anyway the solenoid is a coil which when current is passed through it creates a magnetic field which will attract a metal part which moves and in turn pushes a switch contact. The coil has 2 wires which should show a resistance of something like 100 ohms.
if you connect 2 wires to a 12v battery then to the terminals of the solenoid coil (take the existing wires off) you should get a noticeable click. If you measure the current from the battery to the coil you should get about 1/10 amp. (half or twice this amount is OK.)

Of course from your description of having 2 wires it might have 2 coils with an earth return through the body. And of course the solenoid may have firther connections from the internal switch.

sorry I am just guessing more info needed. olewill

 

[Billjratt]

I've a pal with a mobo (prestige 32) it's full of solenoid-operated breakers. Each sequential push of the operating button/switch causes either open or closed (like your bedside lamp) There is also a manual plunger on each unit that can be used if the control circuit fails. 1: identify which breaker is which, 2: when Ign is in failed state, get someone to MANUALLY push the solenoid and see if it fixes the problem. If still unsure about breakers, switch on a decent load (lights,fridge etc) then measure Volts across the large terminals: 12v is open, a few millivolts is closed (and good). Waggle the solenoid button while measuring, look for discolouring of wires at connectors.
You'll probably need two peeps to do the identification - one to switch, the other to lie twisted through some small hatch with a torch, touching/feeling for clicks(finger lightly resting on the manual sol button on top).

 

[DiamondHead]

Thanks for all your information. I managed to find the fault. It was not the solenoid but the contact block of the ignition switch was not triggering the solenoid. For all the readers sake I have attached a pic of the contact block. [image]http://<a href="http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/diamondhead01/?action=view&current=SCHLEGEL.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/diamondhead01/SCHLEGEL.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[/image]

 

[VicS]