How to set tappets mitsubishi S3L2 engine?

[eidiohir]

I have a mitsubishi S3L2 engine and I have replaced the head gasket. I need to set the tappet clearance and although I have the engine manual I have a problem. the manual tells me to use markings on the front pulley to find Top Dead Centre but the front pulley has been changed and I can't use this method. The engine is a three cylinder and I wonder if there is a system similar to that for a four cylinder for finding the position to set the valve clearances? I have searched google without finding anything.

This is the page of the manual showing the front pulley.
Any help out there?

 

[NickRobinson]

Rule of nine for 4cyl... so possibly rule of 7. for triples
Not teaching granny to suck eggs.. mentally number the valves 1 to 6 from the front (say) Then when (eg) 1 is fully compressed (open) 7-1=6 should be rattly and right to adjust.
Also when one tappet on a pot is fully down, other should be ready to adjust..
You did keep the pushrods (if used) in their original order?
If this advice pants, you won't be able to force a feeler in.

 

[VicS]

I have a mitsubishi S3L2 engine and I have replaced the head gasket. I need to set the tappet clearance and although I have the engine manual I have a problem. the manual tells me to use markings on the front pulley to find Top Dead Centre but the front pulley has been changed and I can't use this method. The engine is a three cylinder and I wonder if there is a system similar to that for a four cylinder for finding the position to set the valve clearances? I have searched google without finding anything.
View attachment 55301
This is the page of the manual showing the front pulley.
Any help out there?

Stu Davies will hopefully confirm this if I am right and he is around

Turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal rotation until the valves for one cylinder are just rocking between the exhaust valve just closing and the inlet valve just opening. Now turn through 1 complete crank shaft revolution. Both valves will be fully closed and the cam followers on the heels of the cams. This is the point at which to adjust those two.

Now repeat in turn for the other cylinders.

(The procedure works for any number of cylinders and any normal engine)

The procedure is described in the 'shop manual fo the VP 2001, 2002 and 2003 engines http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf

 

[eidiohir]

Rule of nine for 4cyl... so possibly rule of 7. for triples
Not teaching granny to suck eggs.. mentally number the valves 1 to 6 from the front (say) Then when (eg) 1 is fully compressed (open) 7-1=6 should be rattly and right to adjust.
Also when one tappet on a pot is fully down, other should be ready to adjust..
You did keep the pushrods (if used) in their original order?
If this advice pants, you won't be able to force a feeler in.

I did keep the pushrods in the right order. ( the old bit of cardboard with numbered holes trick)
I did think of when one valve is completely down the other could be adjusted but there must be a correct way.

 

[eidiohir]

Stu Davies will hopefully confirm this if I am right and he is around

Turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal rotation until the valves for one cylinder are just rocking between the exhaust valve just closing and the inlet valve just opening. Now turn through 1 complete crank shaft revolution. Both valves will be fully closed and the cam followers on the heels of the cams. This is the point at which to adjust those two.

Now repeat in turn for the other cylinders.

(The procedure works for any number of cylinders and any normal engine)

The procedure is described in the 'shop manual fo the VP 2001, 2002 and 2003 engines http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf

Thanks for that link. It makes sense as when the crank shaft goes through one revolution after the inlet opening it will be on the compression stroke and the valves will be closed and ready to be adjusted. I think?

 

[NickRobinson]

I did keep the pushrods in the right order. ( the old bit of cardboard with numbered holes trick)
I did think of when one valve is completely down the other could be adjusted but there must be a correct way.

I love old school spannering! (especially when someone else is getting dirty...)

 

[VicS]

Thanks for that link. It makes sense as when the crank shaft goes through one revolution after the inlet opening it will be on the compression stroke and the valves will be closed and ready to be adjusted. I think?

I ve been trying to remember when I have actually used the method. Rule of nine applied to all the 4 cylinder push rod engines I've owned and with OHC engines you can see the camshaft anyway.

Its the MD11c where ive used it. From the manual for that and the three cyl MD17c:

Turn the engine over in the correct direction of
rotation until the valves for one cylinder “rock”.
Then turn through a further revolution and adjust
the valves for this cylinder. Do the same for the
other cylinders. After a trial run, the valves
should be readjusted whilst the engine is still
hot​

 

[eidiohir]

I ve been trying to remember when I have actually used the method. Rule of nine applied to all the 4 cylinder push rod engines I've owned and with OHC engines you can see the camshaft anyway.

Its the MD11c where ive used it. From the manual for that and the three cyl MD17c:

Turn the engine over in the correct direction of
rotation until the valves for one cylinder “rock”.
Then turn through a further revolution and adjust
the valves for this cylinder. Do the same for the
other cylinders. After a trial run, the valves
should be readjusted whilst the engine is still
hot​

Just a quick update. I set the tappets yesterday using the method shown and when I fired her up she ran well with no rattles. I will be back at the engine in a couple of weeks and I will check the clearance again then. Thanks to all for the info.