How to seal windows to wooden frames in wheelhouse

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Polly1

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I have perspex windows in a wooden wheelhouse that I refitted recently. I glued them in with the strong sikaflex glue, can't remember the number. There was a small gap between the painted wood that the windows are recessed into so I tried a silicone sealant. But whatever I use moisture gets into the gap and algae grows.
I was thinking of trying epoxy but if it runs onto the windows it will be a pain and I wonder if the problem will reoccur as the wood flexes away from the hardened glue.
Any ideas how to seal this?
 
Silicone is the wrong thing to use. It does not stick well to perspex or wood so water will get between the 2. Epoxy would not work as it too does not stick to perspex and will not fles, so will crack. Suggest you clean out the gap thoroughly and seal with a polyurethane such as CT1 (cheaper version of Sika). Mask both sides of the recess so you get a clean edge.
Just noticed where you are so CT1 may not be available, so use a non adhesive polyurethane. You should be able to identify one from the description or data sheet, although it is not critical that it is the non adhesive type, but this may be easier to remove at a later date if needed.
 
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Polly1 said:
I have perspex windows in a wooden wheelhouse that I refitted recently. I glued them in with the strong sikaflex glue, can't remember the number. There was a small gap between the painted wood that the windows are recessed into so I tried a silicone sealant. But whatever I use moisture gets into the gap and algae grows.
I was thinking of trying epoxy but if it runs onto the windows it will be a pain and I wonder if the problem will reoccur as the wood flexes away from the hardened glue.
Any ideas how to seal this?
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A non setting butyl sealant such as Arbomast BR ??

Perhaps treat the wood with a benzalkonium chloride / octaborate mold and algae killer and allow to dry.. Eg Patio magic or Boracol. Kill any mold or algae as soon as it appears with the same.

Be wary of sealants that are unsuitable for plastic glazing. Presumably you used the correct Sikaflex for plastic glazing in the first place ? ... Sikaflex 295 UV
 
Tranona said:
Silicone is the wrong thing to use. It does not stick well to perspex or wood so water will get between the 2. Epoxy would not work as it too does not stick to perspex and will not fles, so will crack. Suggest you clean out the gap thoroughly and seal with a polyurethane such as CT1 (cheaper version of Sika). Mask both sides of the recess so you get a clean edge.
Click to expand...

CT1 is a silicone / polyurethane hybrid but it is solvent free so should be a good choice for use with plastic glazing.
Puraflex 40 is a polyurethane based sealant similar to Sikaflex 291. It is in fact made by one of the Sika group companies,
 
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To add to the above, butyl tape may work better if you are applying a compressing metal or wood glazing bead over it, otherwise I would favour the polyurethane sealants recommended. The vital thing is to carefully mask the frame and the glazing, it makes it much easier to point the surface of the sealant and leaves nice clean sharp edges, do not strip the tape until the sealant is just starting to skin. Use a good width of tape as you may find you get sealant in places you do not intend and when stripping off have a big cardboard box to hand to dump it straight into. And don't forget the nitrile disposable gloves, change them as soon as they get any sealant on them, it may be just me but this can be one mucky job.
 
My usual go-to for glazing (and much else) is butyl tape, providing (as Quandary suggested) that there's a glazing bead or the hole centres are fairly close together. But then I wouldn't have a clue how to source butyl in Singapore, so might end up with polyurethane sealant.

If the mating surface of the wood is smooth, self-adhesive foam glazing strip works well, as well as being the least messy option. It needs to be quality stuff designed for that purpose, with an adhesive suitable for acrylic: i.e. not cheap draught-excluder strip. Again, easy to source in the UK, but might be tricky in Singapore.
 
gus said:
Another alternative is to use old fashioned but reliable vehicle windscreen sealer. Never hardens and sticks to anything.
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Not sure I would want that sticky stuff in an external seam when there are much better products available as suggested earlier.
 
macd said:
My usual go-to for glazing (and much else) is butyl tape, providing (as Quandary suggested) that there's a glazing bead or the hole centres are fairly close together. But then I wouldn't have a clue how to source butyl in Singapore, so might end up with polyurethane sealant.

If the mating surface of the wood is smooth, self-adhesive foam glazing strip works well, as well as being the least messy option. It needs to be quality stuff designed for that purpose, with an adhesive suitable for acrylic: i.e. not cheap draught-excluder strip. Again, easy to source in the UK, but might be tricky in Singapore.
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I too would go with a butyl tape. Should be able to get it in Sin City?

Donald
 
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