How to save an older Self Tailing winch where plastic parts have failed and spares are unavailable or stupidly expensive

How much was the printer and your time?
Printer was £126 from the manufacturer, my time was free as I started this during lockdown, and I am retired. Each rope stripper cost about 80 pence and about 3 hours to print. I enjoyed the challenge of learning the software and technology.
 
Here's my solution - I had exactly the same issue. I eventually found a US forum discussing the same issue. This cost about £15 per stripper.

The Lewmar Wavegrip 16st winches were discontinued in the early 1990s. The strippers are impossible to source and Lewmar charge around £200 to recreate them.
However all is not lost!
The strippers for the newer Lewmar 16st Ocean Winch (available for around £10 on Ebay etc) can be easily adapted. Their diameter fits perfectly however they are too tall and the spacer doesn’t reach the chrome feeder arm.
It’s a simple task to file the height down – I used a sander attached to my drill, it took a few moments. Then you simply need to find/order a firm piece of plastic a couple of mm thick. Cut a section out that you can superglue/epoxy to the top of your Ocean stripper and ensure that it will reach the groove in the chrome feeder arm. This doesn’t have to be hugely precise – it just needs to ensure the stripper stays put while the winch rotates. In a sense you’re actually improving the stripper as you’re making even less space for rope to get jammed. Obviously, check it thoroughly. You can easily remove the necessary top sections of the winch and take them home to do this on your kitchen table.
Well done. You just saved £200.
 
A man after my own heart. I am a 3D enthusiastic so applaud your success.

FWIW I use Fusion 360 for designing which is free for hobbyists. I own a full size Ultimaker 3 but also an eBay Ultimaker2Go that I upgraded. For this trip I was "allowed" to bring the U2Go on board and have been printing various "essential" items. The printer is happy printing at anchor and in theory when on the move as the gap between print head and print bed is to tiny, Ultimake have a video showing a battery powered printer prining whilst being sent from one side of Amsterdam to the other

I agree that ASA is the best thing to use for outdoor parts as it is UV and heat stable. To avoid delamination it is best to print without a window open in order to keep the environment warm.

I too have made a video about 3D printing boaty things

We need a forum for Boaty 3D printing within YBW!

TS
 
How resistant do you reckon the plastic is Ian? Are there different grades of plastic that can be used by the printer. I guess at that cost, an annual replacement would hardy dent the economy.
 
How resistant do you reckon the plastic is Ian? Are there different grades of plastic that can be used by the printer. I guess at that cost, an annual replacement would hardy dent the economy.
ASA and PETG are what I tried, the printer I have cannot handle ABS. The other 2 should be fine on board. The rope strippers seem to be handling the environment well. I have many copies available on board changing them takes a few minutes.
 
But not supplying 43st though.

True, although might be possible to a adapt a new 44 in the same way... (£17 ebay) for those who don't fancy buying a 3d printer.

Incidentally, I think the reason why these things break is because they get gummed up with salt and the drum starts to grip onto their inner side... which reminds me I haven't serviced my winches this year ?...
 
True, although might be possible to a adapt a new 44 in the same way... (£17 ebay) for those who don't fancy buying a 3d printer.

Incidentally, I think the reason why these things break is because they get gummed up with salt and the drum starts to grip onto their inner side... which reminds me I haven't serviced my winches this year ?...
The rope stripper that disintegrated had a piece of the tongue missing, but the actual ring broke into about 8 parts
 
How resistant do you reckon the plastic is Ian? Are there different grades of plastic that can be used by the printer. I guess at that cost, an annual replacement would hardy dent the economy.
I threw the cap for the water tank over the side four years ago. Impossible to find a replacement so 3D printed one. I assumed that it might last a year or so but it's still perfectly fine and the spare remains unused.

This is the original test piece. The 'production' one has an o-ring seal.

water cap s.jpg

Material is ASA. Keeping drafts away and a steady temperature appears to be important: I made a simple cardboard box enclosure with a bit of 'greenhouse glass' perspex for a window.

I use Autodesk Fusion360 for 3D design. It's an excellent professional system, free for personal use. Quite a steep leaning curve but utterly superb and easy to draft complex objects once understood. I'd recommend playing with it as a better winter project than jigsaws or Youtube channels.
 
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