How to repair damaged toe rail (wood)

Lovely job - thanks for that step by step...

PS. My old woodwork teacher told me off for putting my plane down flat on the blade, always on it's side he said.. but then he also told me off for using my chisel as a screwdriver and I still do... in extremis... :D
 
I always lay them flat down so long as they are not on anything metal, you won't dull the blade and it protects the blade and sole from accidental chips or scratches and yourself from the blade :) best way to store is in a sock or hanging.
 
PVA or cascamite worked for me on stair making & much less messy PU is over rated

I take back all I said about PU glue.

I got to my boat this May and found the inserts that were glued to my box on the aft deck had completely 'let go'.

Cascamite, al is forgiven. I used to use it, my grandfather building boats used to use similar.

S.
 
I take back all I said about PU glue.

I got to my boat this May and found the inserts that were glued to my box on the aft deck had completely 'let go'.

Cascamite, al is forgiven. I used to use it, my grandfather building boats used to use similar.

S.
Aerodux 500 was superb , i useed to get samples from a M8 who worked there . Areolite ( remember that ) was also the marine glue of its day
 
Yes thanks my tools are very well cared for and in the case of my chisels very expensive- main risk is not dropping them in the drink!

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Final stage was to plane flush, sand and finish with LeTonkinois natural oil/varnish. Only thing I couldnt do and didnt properly consider was the possibility of better aligning the grain. But I quite like the odd patch as it reminds me of a well completed repair.
Real Pro`s lay the plane on its side :rolleyes:
 
Lovely job - thanks for that step by step...

PS. My old woodwork teacher told me off for putting my plane down flat on the blade, always on it's side he said.. but then he also told me off for using my chisel as a screwdriver and I still do... in extremis... :D


Were you taught by Mr Laverty like me? (bet you can't guess his nickname...)
ps.. Does that mean using a screwdriver as a chisel is out too?
 
Cascamite, as supplied by Borden Chemicals, did not actually meet the British Standards for marine, or even exterior, use. Not sure how it currently rates with current ISO standards, but I admit hundreds of dinghies & wooden boats were built with it.
As a joinery manufacturer I could not use it for a lot of external joinery work

For those who want a quick bond Borden chemicals sold a clear chemical to apply to one surface & Cascamite to the other. When the 2 surfaces are securely clamped the glue gets an initial set in a 2-3 minutes. This is much quicker than Cascamite on its own.
Forget what the additive is called as I sold the joinery business 16 years ago & things have probably moved on since then

For the OP's small repair there is a window care repair system which I would imagine would have done the job quite well. It is marketed by Dulux & once again I forget the correct name, but it is extremely effective, would work in the marine environment & is simple to apply, but has 2-3 stages, & can be machined to shape. Can be obtained from any main Dulux stockist.
 
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Better than Cascamite (for total waterproof) was Cascophen if one didn't mind the purple glue line. Unfortunately it is no longer available here because people seem to prefer using epoxy.

I found something very similar when I needed to glue up a new sliding hatch for the companionway: teak strips on a curved ply base with black 'caulking' between the strips. Daughter kindly got it for me from Germany where she was on one of her regular visits. It is called "Bindan -CIN" and is a resorcinol adhesive composed of the usual dark red/brown/purple syrup and a powder hardener. It seems to be just as good as the old Cascophen and you don't need 'laboratory equipment' for mixing as it is quite forgiving: enough to do it by eye.

Just in case someone wants a proper waterproof adhesive.

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