How to remove mould from lacquered oak?

[John_Clarke]

Mould has grown on the clear lacquered oak surfaces in the cabin. It can be wiped off the top of the surface but black specks and lines remain in the grain and are conspicuous on the light coloured oak; the grain has not been fully filled with the lacquer which gives an attractive finish to the oak but does not provide a smooth easy to clean surface.

Does anyone know how these mould specks can be removed or the blackness lightened without damaging the lacquer or the oak?

 

[longjohnsilver]

I'd try a quick clean with weak bleach or Dettox mould and mildew remover, wipe and leave for a short while and then wipe off with a damp cloth. If that doesn't work then I'd give a weak solution of oxalic acid a try.

 

[John_Clarke]

Thank you for your advice. I will give it a try.

 

[PeterGibbs]

Mould has grown on the clear lacquered oak surfaces in the cabin. It can be wiped off the top of the surface but black specks and lines remain in the grain and are conspicuous on the light coloured oak; the grain has not been fully filled with the lacquer which gives an attractive finish to the oak but does not provide a smooth easy to clean surface.

Does anyone know how these mould specks can be removed or the blackness lightened without damaging the lacquer or the oak?

For spot removal, Longjohnsilver's advice is good. But how to renovate?

If it's more systemic you may need to clean and revarnish. Wire wool and meths used in a circular motion lightly will prep the surface - especially necessary if the mould remover has left marks or light uneven spots. Then an application of wood colourant all over prior to lacquering / varnishing the whole surface. There are also surface restorer liquids in the shops; they work well - but good prep is key.

A little effort will reward, and a little experimentation may be needed to get a good finish.

PWG

 

[Ex-SolentBoy]

There was a thread on this a little while back.

The problem with bleach is that it can lighten the oak. I know as I have an oak house and oak kitchen!

The cheapest and quickest fix is those magic sponge things, from Lakeland or similar. Cost a few quid, and you can repeat the process again if needed.

I would recommend trying these before anything more stringent. At the first sign of any blackness we use them and it stays away a very long time.

 

[SAMYL]

Someone mentioned in a thread recently that leaving a bleach bottle in the cabin with its lid off would prevent mould growth whilst the boat was being stored over the winter months.
Might be worth trying in the future to prevent further trouble.

 

[John_Clarke]

I had not heard of these magic eraser sponges before but will give it a go to see if it can get the mould out of the grain.

My wife is nervous about using even diluted bleach and has applied Brintons Patio Magic (an algaecide and mould killer) on a test area. It should kill the mould but not remove the residue.

Fortunately the mould is only on the surface of the varnish and not in the wood itself.

Normally a dehumidifier keeps the mould at bay during the winter but someone in the boatyard unplug my lead so there was neither dehumidification nor ventilation for probably many weeks! I should go down to the boat more often during the winter to keep a better eye on things.

Thank you all for your input - it is most appreciated.