Harry25
Well-Known Member
When I was looing for information on how to remove my engine I couldn't find any. Volvopaul from this forum kindly gave me advice that the engine had to be swung 90 degrees to get it out. Thanks again volvopaul.
HOW TO REMOVE ENGINE FROM A SEALINE S23/S25
REMOVE OUTDRIVE in my case DPE. Then remove 6 bolts from round adaptor (on the outside of the transom assembly, it sits round the bell housing and shaft splines) Pull out adapter and large rubber donut.
IN THE ENGINE BAY
Disconnect batteries, remove and take out both battery boxes. This will give you more space as it’s a tight fit to get in there. I’m a slim build and I’ve been jammed in a couple of times.
Disconnect raw water intake hose.
Disconnect earth leads on engine just below raw water intake hose.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines.
Disconnect cables to starter. One earth and two positive.
I initially removed the big engine mounting bolts, but later though I wouldn’t have enough height to lift the engine over the bolt so I also removed the two supporting screws which go into the fibreglass. On reversal before re-installing the engine I put the engine bolts on and located the engine by making sure the two supporting screws lined up with the holes.
Remove the cover and disconnect supercharge belt, power steering belt, and alternator belt. I also removed the circulation belt as well although I’m not sure if that is necessary.
Disconnect the alternator and all wiring.
Disconnect throttle cable at injection pump
Unplug wiring harness
I left the power steering pipes on but removed the pump from its supporting bracket and put the pump at the back of the boat.
Remove the air filter, air filter box and plastic pipe leading to the supercharger.
Remove exhaust hose and pipe.
Disconnect connect coolant pipes leading to calorifier. Before doing this I made up two pipes with a blank end to go on the engine side either wise all your coolant will drain out. I also put a blank on the coolant pipes.
I also drained the oil from the engine because I was removing the sump. The engine was cold but using a Pela 650 pump I firstly drained off 4.2 litres, which took 3 hours. Emptied it, and left it overnight and by morning I had another 4.2 litres. When I removed the sump there was no oil there.
REMOVAL
I asked the local farmer to give me a help with his tractor. The engine weights around 440 kilos which was well within his lifting capacity. The rear lifting point is quite far back under the fibreglass and there is not much height either. We made up a bar from angle iron and drilled three holes one either end and one in the middle so it would act as a swivel. We then lifted the engine up and manoeuvred it forward and then swivelled it 90degrees to get it out. The angle iron bent but we had just enough room to get it out.
REINSTALLATION
This was pretty straight forward the only problem was getting the inside large rubber donut located properly once this was done we put on the outside rubber donut and tightened up the six bolts.
HOW TO REMOVE ENGINE FROM A SEALINE S23/S25
REMOVE OUTDRIVE in my case DPE. Then remove 6 bolts from round adaptor (on the outside of the transom assembly, it sits round the bell housing and shaft splines) Pull out adapter and large rubber donut.
IN THE ENGINE BAY
Disconnect batteries, remove and take out both battery boxes. This will give you more space as it’s a tight fit to get in there. I’m a slim build and I’ve been jammed in a couple of times.
Disconnect raw water intake hose.
Disconnect earth leads on engine just below raw water intake hose.
Disconnect fuel feed and return lines.
Disconnect cables to starter. One earth and two positive.
I initially removed the big engine mounting bolts, but later though I wouldn’t have enough height to lift the engine over the bolt so I also removed the two supporting screws which go into the fibreglass. On reversal before re-installing the engine I put the engine bolts on and located the engine by making sure the two supporting screws lined up with the holes.
Remove the cover and disconnect supercharge belt, power steering belt, and alternator belt. I also removed the circulation belt as well although I’m not sure if that is necessary.
Disconnect the alternator and all wiring.
Disconnect throttle cable at injection pump
Unplug wiring harness
I left the power steering pipes on but removed the pump from its supporting bracket and put the pump at the back of the boat.
Remove the air filter, air filter box and plastic pipe leading to the supercharger.
Remove exhaust hose and pipe.
Disconnect connect coolant pipes leading to calorifier. Before doing this I made up two pipes with a blank end to go on the engine side either wise all your coolant will drain out. I also put a blank on the coolant pipes.
I also drained the oil from the engine because I was removing the sump. The engine was cold but using a Pela 650 pump I firstly drained off 4.2 litres, which took 3 hours. Emptied it, and left it overnight and by morning I had another 4.2 litres. When I removed the sump there was no oil there.
REMOVAL
I asked the local farmer to give me a help with his tractor. The engine weights around 440 kilos which was well within his lifting capacity. The rear lifting point is quite far back under the fibreglass and there is not much height either. We made up a bar from angle iron and drilled three holes one either end and one in the middle so it would act as a swivel. We then lifted the engine up and manoeuvred it forward and then swivelled it 90degrees to get it out. The angle iron bent but we had just enough room to get it out.
REINSTALLATION
This was pretty straight forward the only problem was getting the inside large rubber donut located properly once this was done we put on the outside rubber donut and tightened up the six bolts.