How to open a Walther 32A shorepower plug?

Skylark

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My shorepower connection is playing up. Of late, when all plugs are first connected my panel has been showing the reverse polarity lamp. After a quick spray with WD40 and wiggling all plugs it usually then works ok.

The lead is 32A and includes a short 32A to 16A converter plug and socket. The boat is French, 2013, bought new. I suspect the 32A plug to be the culprit as it looks as though the wires have pulled, see picture.

IMG_1771.jpg


Does anyone know how to open this plug, made by Walther? There are instructions moulded into the plug, see picture, but my first attempt didn't work so I'd prefer to seek advice before trying again.

IMG_1772.jpg


Otherwise, anyone else had a shorepower issue like this and found that it was caused by something else?

Many thanks
 
Sounds like a loose or corroded earth connection.

Undo the cable gland, stick a screwdriver in the slot to lever the plastic tab, the blue bit should then unscrew from the shroud.
 
I would do as the instructions state but using a broad-bladed screwdriver on each side simeoultaneously (at the same time!)

And unfasten the cable gland, as Starfire says
 
A couple of thousand miles....

If its at all grim, just replace the plug.
I’ve also reached that conclusion. Only two of the 6 wire retaining screws want to move so it’s not worth messing with. New plugs seem widely available at reasonable cost.

I’m hoping that this solves the issue. If not, the 32A Marinco plugs, at the other end of the lead, look pretty expensive ?
 
There are ranges of the same socket type which have different IP ratings, mostly locking coolers and o rings. They do get a bit bulky though. We boaters tend to use the low IP range as it’s the most common and works.
 
Thanks for the thought but I’ve already placed an order for a Walther, like for like, replacement. Similar cost to Ceenorm. Why do you think that they are better quality?

Given the use that we give shorepower leads, I’m surprised that the plugs are only rated to IP44.
My 16A Walther plugs are not quite the same design as the one in your photo. They have a pair crosshead screws on the outside, holding it together - due to the angle at which this photo is taken they are just barely visible; these screws were considerably rusty when I came to take the old one apart, and I ended up having to remove them with a flat-bladed screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

The exterior shell of the Ceenorm, on the other hand, is a single piece, so less prone to water incursion compared to the two blue and white halves of the Walther. The Ceenorm's screws are hidden away next to the pins - inside the body and less exposed to the elements.

There is a rubber cover where the cable enters the body of the 16A Walther (far right end on the pic) but it's dependent on stretch and the size of the cable to prevent water getting in; it can't be too tight, otherwise you would have difficulty assembling the cable in the plug in the first place. The cable gland on the back of the Ceenorn, on the other hand, is moulded with two different plastics, so that the ring that screws down seals and clamps at the same time; a side view is available in the PDF datasheet.

Shorepower plugs are an inexpensive spare to have on board, so I bought a couple of different types at random when I needed to replace one. The body of the Ceenorm is made of a matte plastic, and in my opinion it just feels slight better quality overall.
 
Thanks for the thought but I’ve already placed an order for a Walther, like for like, replacement. Similar cost to Ceenorm. Why do you think that they are better quality?

Given the use that we give shorepower leads, I’m surprised that the plugs are only rated to IP44.
I know nothing, but Paul Rainbow says Marinco are pants.
 
Every day is a school day, thanks for sharing the link.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a boat with anything other than the Marinco shorepower plug and socket.

There is some interesting information within the article, shame about the blatant advertising, though.

I would expect that Insurers and/or Fire Investigators would pass findings on to Electrical / Legislative bodies to lobby for a change of Regs or Standards, if there was found to be a genuine and fundamental issue.

How about Yacht Surveyors, surely their role would also be to recommend change if change was needed? Any similar evidence regarding European 16A and 32A applications?
 
My 16A Walther plugs are not quite the same design as the one in your photo.
Mine is the 32A version. It is 8 years old and probably had “average” use. The wire had pulled out of the clamping mechanism and the internals were not pretty, once I’d opened it.

As I posted earlier, IP44 is otherwise known as “splash proof”. I’m surprised that this spec is sold as / considered appropriate for a marine environment.


Shorepower plugs are an inexpensive spare to have on board, so I bought a couple of different types at random when I needed to replace one.

I’ve made a range of adaptors over the years which I carry on my boat. They are kept dry, stored below deck. They have proved invaluable on a number of occasions. I’ve ordered 2 of the Walther 32A plugs, a spare “just in case”

My 32A Marinco plug, externally, looks to be in good order but, without research, it isn’t obvious how to open it such that I can I spec the connections.

Thanks for posting.
 
The article linked to in post #14 give some very useful information. It's unfair to accuse them of "blatant advertising" when they don't sell the Smartplug and state the reasons why they won't sell it, because they don't want to be accused of advertising and diminish the message that those Marinco connectors are rubbish.

Don't just go by that one article, try a Google search or two: boat fire shore power plug - Google Search

The Ceeform style connectors, such as the Walther and the Ceenorm provide a better contact area than the Marinco style connectors and come in a variety of makes/models. The Ceenorm one looks good and the ABB ones from Screwfix are OK too. These are all inexpensive, certainly a lot less than a Marinco connector and much safer.

The Smartplug is obviously a good qaulity product, a bit more information here (potential for some bias, as it's an advert),but still plenty of useful facts: SmartPlug They are very expensive though.

My preference is the Ratio range. The company are responsible for many of the electric car systems we see and the boat plugs/sockets are very good quality and you can get both the plug and socket for a little under £80, a very nice mirror polished stainless one coasts a little more (looks great though). The socket has an o-ring in it, so it's waterproof with or without the socket. I have one on my own boat and i've blasted it with a hose at full pressure and it remained perfectly dry inside. Inlets and Accessories | Energy Solutions

FYI, i'm not selling anything and have no connection with ES-Store (other than being one of their customers), i'd linked to them purely to give examples of the two systems.
 
The article linked to in post #14 give some very useful information. It's unfair to accuse them of "blatant advertising" when they don't sell the Smartplug and state the reasons why they won't sell it, because they don't want to be accused of advertising and diminish the message that those Marinco connectors are rubbish.

Don't just go by that one article, try a Google search or two: boat fire shore power plug - Google Search

The Ceeform style connectors, such as the Walther and the Ceenorm provide a better contact area than the Marinco style connectors and come in a variety of makes/models. The Ceenorm one looks good and the ABB ones from Screwfix are OK too. These are all inexpensive, certainly a lot less than a Marinco connector and much safer.

The Smartplug is obviously a good qaulity product, a bit more information here (potential for some bias, as it's an advert),but still plenty of useful facts: SmartPlug They are very expensive though.

My preference is the Ratio range. The company are responsible for many of the electric car systems we see and the boat plugs/sockets are very good quality and you can get both the plug and socket for a little under £80, a very nice mirror polished stainless one coasts a little more (looks great though). The socket has an o-ring in it, so it's waterproof with or without the socket. I have one on my own boat and i've blasted it with a hose at full pressure and it remained perfectly dry inside. Inlets and Accessories | Energy Solutions

FYI, i'm not selling anything and have no connection with ES-Store (other than being one of their customers), i'd linked to them purely to give examples of the two systems.
Thanks for taking the time to add to the useful content of the thread, Paul.

I’ve read the “how to” link again and it still reads like an advertising campaign to me.

Also clicked on the google link for additional background info.

Serious question, if the Marinco plug and socket carries such high risk, why is it almost universally used within the AWB sector? Any pressure to improve it from interested parties?

How about the concept of needing shorepower lead tested annually, as mentioned in the first article? Any views on this?
 
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