How to mount stanchions?

coopec said:
Sorry PVB but that link doesn't work:unsure:

Thanks anyway(y) (Probably a load of rubbish!)
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Works for me.

Why do you, once again, feel the need to be rude when someone posts something for you ?

Next time you throw your toys out of the pram and tell us you're leaving the forum and not returning, please stick to it.
 
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Wing Mark said:
Some people will tell you that stanchions should be attached in such a way that they can be ripped off in a collision without tearing great chunks out of the hull.
I vaguely remember reading similar in some code of practice but it was a long time ago and cannot recall the source.
It does make some sense, you wouldn't want a few square feet of deck missing after hitting something.
Most stanchions are fairly lightly attached and work fine in everyday real life use?
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I really don't get that. The guardwires are not their as an ornament. If you have to go forward in a gale to sort an issue, you life may depend on them. A boat being bounced around with you are deck needs guardwires that will take the impact of a person who falls over. If the stanchions break then they are not fit for purpose in my view.
In my opinion the best specification is bullet proof stanchion base mounts and solid aluminium stanchions. In a large impact with something very solid the stanchions will bend.
Given a free choice to specify our toerail and stanchion arrangement, that is what we chose. The main influence on this decision was that old toerail/stanchion set up was just that. We had to work hard to convince the manufacturer that we wanted bullet proof. Their initial offerings were not up to the job. The toerail was custom made. They supplied a large strong stanchion base and we had to have the aluminium stanchions custom made as the basic stanchions were not long enough. We now have 790mm solid aluminium stanchions. Super strong
 
PaulRainbow said:
Works for me.

Why do you, once again, feel the need to be rude when someone posts something for you ?

Next time you throw your toys out of the pram and tell us you're leaving the forum and not returning, please stick to it.
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PVB was just having a little light hearted joke by giving me that link so I thought I'd respond in kind! :ROFLMAO: I'm sure PVB would realize that and I'm sorry that you obviously don't:cry:
 
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pvb said:
Well, here's another link you might like to read. It suggests that stanchions welded on to the base are a bad idea...

Stanchion Bases
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I did read the article on Stanchion Bases and go along with everything they say. BUT they are for 600mm stanchions and there are no taller stanchions on the market (I settled for DIY 900mm stanchions).

I did a lot of research of what was available on the market before reluctantly deciding to make my own up. I did consider removable stanchions. Everything is a compromise ...
 
I've decided where the stanchions are bolted to the deck I will raise the mounting pad by about 5mm(?) above the rest of the deck by laying a few extra layers of glass. I'm sure that will virtually eliminate leaks. (Of course it wouldn't stop leaks if the decks are awash)
 
coopec said:
I've decided where the stanchions are bolted to the deck I will raise the mounting pad by about 5mm(?) above the rest of the deck by laying a few extra layers of glass. I'm sure that will virtually eliminate leaks. (Of course it wouldn't stop leaks if the decks are awash)
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No wonder it's taking you so long to launch the boat, far too much over thinking. Just bolt the damn things to the deck with some decent sealant and simple backing plates, job done. If you want belt and braces, put one layer of chopped strand mat and some polyester resin over the backing pad and nuts. If you ever need to undo the nuts one one you can easily cut the GRP off with a sharp wood chisel. You've spent longer typing messages on here than the job would have taken.
 
PaulRainbow said:
No wonder it's taking you so long to launch the boat, far too much over thinking. Just bolt the damn things to the deck with some decent sealant and simple backing plates, job done. If you want belt and braces, put one layer of chopped strand mat and some polyester resin over the backing pad and nuts. If you ever need to undo the nuts one one you can easily cut the GRP off with a sharp wood chisel. You've spent longer typing messages on here than the job would have taken.
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But that's basically what I was planning to do?
 
pvb said:
So let me get this straight. You've fully completed the interior of your boat, and now you're going to try to access the underside of the deck to fit stanchions? Most people would fit the stanchions first.
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PVB I've already fitted the stanchion/pullpits to the deck so I know I can reach all the bolts.

The Main Roads Dept will guarantee there are no power lines or tree branches lower than 14ft. If I didn't uninstall the stanchions the transport company would refuse to transport the yacht.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Apart from raising the deck under the stanchion bases, making GRP channel sections etc etc ?
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Paul I've already made up 4 channel backing sections and since it will be raining all day I will be in the shed shortly fiber glassing another batch of 6. (I may be able to do the remainder later today but anyway it will be tomorrow)
 
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PaulRainbow said:
No wonder it's taking you so long to launch the boat, far too much over thinking. Just bolt the damn things to the deck with some decent sealant and simple backing plates, job done. If you want belt and braces, put one layer of chopped strand mat and some polyester resin over the backing pad and nuts. If you ever need to undo the nuts one one you can easily cut the GRP off with a sharp wood chisel. You've spent longer typing messages on here than the job would have taken.
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I've been aboard three yachts that have done a circumnavigation and I would not have wanted to sail on any of them. One yacht had a Tilley lantern for lighting! (I didn't inspect the toilet arrangements). None of the owners were at all proud of their efforts and only reluctantly allowed me to inspect their yachts.

None had fridge/freezers, no opening windows er portlights, there were obvious leaks, they only had manual bilge pumps and I suspect one would not be considered seaworthy. Two of them have been scrapped.

I suppose it all depends on what your standards and priorities are. And people who have never built a yacht, know nothing about fiber glassing but are happy enough to criticize someone else's efforts from half way around the planet leave me bemused:rolleyes:
 
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PaulRainbow said:
No wonder it's taking you so long to launch the boat, far too much over thinking. Just bolt the damn things to the deck with some decent sealant and simple backing plates, job done. If you want belt and braces, put one layer of chopped strand mat and some polyester resin over the backing pad and nuts. If you ever need to undo the nuts one one you can easily cut the GRP off with a sharp wood chisel. You've spent longer typing messages on here than the job would have taken.
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There's plenty of yachts in the Swan River built by amateurs using your approach. You really shouldn't be giving advice on yacht construction.

Some boats are sporting faded "For Sale" signs and others are resting on the river bed. They are worthless as no one in their right mind would consider taking them out into the open ocean. They are too rough to inspire any confidence at all.

Periodically The Swan River Trust has a clean-up of abandoned boats (Another lot of failed dreams):cry:
 
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coopec said:
I suppose it all depends on what your standards and priorities are. And people who have never built a yacht, know nothing about fiber glassing but are happy enough to criticize someone else's efforts from half way around the planet leave me bemused:rolleyes:
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Yet again you stoop to insults.

You also, (again) cannot tell the difference between being given advice and criticism. If the posters in your threads don't tell you what you want to hear or don't agree with your ideas you start an argument and insult them.

I'm not the one who has been messing around building a single boat, in my garden, for 20 years. I'm out there working on boats every day of the working week, maintaining my own boat in my spare time and actually going sailing.

Oh, FYI, i was making GRP components long before you even started building your boat. Anyone with two brain cells or more can do it, it's pretty simple stuff.
 
I've made up x9 fiberglass channel backing plates but I think I'll have to rebuild the mold before I do the rest tomorrow. I used WD-40 PTFE which is supposed to be a good release agent but I am far from convinced.

"It is quick drying and also great as a mould release agent. This product can be used on metal, plastic and glass".

I'm out of my normal release agent so I'll buy some cooking Canola spray tomorrow.

imgonline-com-ua-resize-RBjkQ24CJmFJolS.jpg
 
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