How to get the mainsail shape right?

Otter

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This is new to me, most of my cruising was done on two boats that were designed without a kicking strap or main sheet traveller. We now have a kicker but still no traveller. Out yesterday I started to experiment with the kicker - amazing! The differences in sail shape were huge, though wind was so changeable it wasn't possible to measure differences in speed. Basically I guessed that what I'm trying to do is get the main to mimic the shape of the genoa? I think that produced the best results, but it required a lot of tension on the kicker - mainly reaching/broad reaching and in about a f4. In turn though it meant I could release the main sheet some, which I guess was good.

Advice needed and very much appreciated - it's great having a boat I can tweak (a bit).
 
If you had that much fun with just a kicker think what a traveller, cunningham, & adjustable outhaul would give you.......... :D
 
If you had that much fun with just a kicker think what a traveller, cunningham, & adjustable outhaul would give you.......... :D

Steady boys, one at a time - I've got the adjustable outhaul and the sneaky pig but let's get this kicking thing right
 
Yes match your main shape to the genny shape - but only if the genny shape is right!

http://www.wb-sails.fi/Portals/209338/news/98_11_PerfectShape/Main.htm

I know I have too much twist in my sails - an inherent problem because a previous owner moved the mast forward to counteract weather helm (which was successful - although the logic of that remedy does defeat me). So I have just added more power into my kicker. But reading up on sail shape is your next move I think.
 
You're joking - with our handicap we stand no chance, we're supposedly about 30 points faster than an Andersen 22 and that makes us faster than time itself. In reality we are not quite as nimble on our feet.
 
You're joking - with our handicap we stand no chance, we're supposedly about 30 points faster than an Andersen 22 and that makes us faster than time itself. In reality we are not quite as nimble on our feet.
Just wait until your crew are a bit older, no excuses then, even a dedicated mainsheet trimmer the rest on the weather rail
 
moved the mast forward to counteract weather helm (which was successful - although the logic of that remedy does defeat me).
Doesn't it move the centre of effort for the whole rig forward so there is proportionately less force from aft of your turning axis. (or whatever it's called) so less rounding -up.
A smaller main would have done the same without all the hassle, surely?
 
You're joking - with our handicap we stand no chance, we're supposedly about 30 points faster than an Andersen 22 and that makes us faster than time itself. In reality we are not quite as nimble on our feet.

What do you mean I once entered a race on a 35 motor sailor weighing 14 tonnes... All we had to do was cross the start line for mum to get her cut glass.

One cheeky boat sailed up and said are you racing? I replied yes. They sailed away and came back on starboard which meant we would miss the inner distance... Buoy and not cross the line on time.. When they shouted "starboard" I replied "apple room and opportunity", there was no protest. We where on the line on the gun tide under us, we got near the windward mark before the tide turned we retired.
It was a good day out though...

Sailed her on and off mooring as well on a few occasions...
 
You don't say if it is a rope or spring/gas strut? The latter lifts the weight of the boom and thus stops it from pulling always on the sail, it also stops the boom arcing up and down again changing sail shape as you move over the waves..Really useful in light airs and sloppy sea IMO.

A rope only vang can 'only' pull downwards..
 
It's rope only. Assuming f3 upwards - which to be fair to The Kipper is when trimming would make any difference - do you just crank it in when you're on a beam reach or closer, and slack it off when the wind is aft?
This is exciting stuff and bearing in mind some of the replies I reckon the three rivers race may be next.
 
I'm no expert by any means, but my understanding is that you should crank on the kicker when reaching or running. It has little effect when beating as the main sheet pulls the boom down. The advice that I had was to ditch the kicker first when broaching, as it would release the power from the main - ergo if you want power off the wind, tighten the kicker.

Neil
 
I'm no expert by any means, but my understanding is that you should crank on the kicker when reaching or running. It has little effect when beating as the main sheet pulls the boom down. The advice that I had was to ditch the kicker first when broaching, as it would release the power from the main - ergo if you want power off the wind, tighten the kicker.

Neil

Hmmm, on a close reach yesterday, the kicker had a very big effect, from dinghy days I remember rounding the windward buoy and immediately releasing the kicker...
 
Sounds like you've 'got it' already. Its a control that allows you to 'shape' the leech and vertical curve or 'belly' of the main when the sheet is freed, so look at the leech, just 'nicely' curved and not filling and flattening all the time or too bellied...You don't want the boom see-sawing up n down on a run either, but then, on a dinghy rolling down wind, a tight kicker and the boom end dipping in the water isn't good either.
Thing is, a heavy boat like yours, with the sails kept driving ( kicker, plenty of sail area hoisted) is great at keeping momentum over a choppy sea once shes moving, i reckon..the first couple of minutes 'winding her up' to speed is the trickiest.
Excuse if saying the obvious, my two haporth. ( and I am 9t fully cruise laden). Fully battening the main is another ( the next, £)way to keep the sail in nice shape sailing over the waves too...
 
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