RobW
Well-Known Member
Many thanks all for all the responses - all seem like sensible approches to me so I have a good few tactics to try in "Round 2" this weekend.
Thanks again
Rob
Thanks again
Rob
How to get hashed set screws out of P Bracket?
- Thread starter RobW
- Start date
SHUG
Well-Known Member
A great tip I saw recently was to use a spiral dowel pin.
http://www.spirol.com/mkt/rs1.php?search=2
Sort out the rotation so that it will wrap around the screw to extract it ,choose the right size and drive it on to the screw, and then use a hammer drill to extract.
Brutal but effective......thats me I'm talking about
PS my ERROR I picked up the thread half-way. This method is really for chewed self tappers but its such a good tip I'll leave it on anyway!!
IDEA!!! Hey maybe you could use it INSIDE your chewed Allen screw so that as it rotates it expands and extracts it.
http://www.spirol.com/mkt/rs1.php?search=2
Sort out the rotation so that it will wrap around the screw to extract it ,choose the right size and drive it on to the screw, and then use a hammer drill to extract.
Brutal but effective......thats me I'm talking about
PS my ERROR I picked up the thread half-way. This method is really for chewed self tappers but its such a good tip I'll leave it on anyway!!
IDEA!!! Hey maybe you could use it INSIDE your chewed Allen screw so that as it rotates it expands and extracts it.
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RobW
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update on this post after I finally got around to tackling the job.
In the end I carefuly cut through the bearing with a hacksaw and collapsed the bearing in on itself and gently knocked it out. Took time to be careful - I did mark the P'Bracket a little - but nothing of any consequence.
This still left the problem of getting the set-screws out. For this I bought a Boa micro grabit set.....
http://www.toolbox.co.uk/boa-micro-grabit-kit-4pc-4307-81427
(other suppliers are available!).
This is a modern take on the old "easy-out" style removed, however the bits are double ended - First one end is used to burnish out the inside of the head, then turn the bit around and the other end screws in, locks and extracts. Both steps are carried out with a cordless drill set in reverse at very low speed.
I had my doubts about this product before I even bought it. The UK importer told me it was not really suitable or rated for use on stainless steel - however I thought it looked the part and bought it anyway. When it came to the crunch though - it worked a treat and had both screws out in less than a minute each FAB!
Thanks to all who responsed with helpful advice - its good to be turning to putting things back together rather than pulling apart!
Speaking of which - next problem is - does anyone know of a supplier of A4/316 stainless steel set screws in M6 and only 5mm long - I am struggling to find anything that short.
I also wondered if these should be point or cup headed? (The ones I removed were cup)?
Robert
In the end I carefuly cut through the bearing with a hacksaw and collapsed the bearing in on itself and gently knocked it out. Took time to be careful - I did mark the P'Bracket a little - but nothing of any consequence.
This still left the problem of getting the set-screws out. For this I bought a Boa micro grabit set.....
http://www.toolbox.co.uk/boa-micro-grabit-kit-4pc-4307-81427
(other suppliers are available!).
This is a modern take on the old "easy-out" style removed, however the bits are double ended - First one end is used to burnish out the inside of the head, then turn the bit around and the other end screws in, locks and extracts. Both steps are carried out with a cordless drill set in reverse at very low speed.
I had my doubts about this product before I even bought it. The UK importer told me it was not really suitable or rated for use on stainless steel - however I thought it looked the part and bought it anyway. When it came to the crunch though - it worked a treat and had both screws out in less than a minute each FAB!
Thanks to all who responsed with helpful advice - its good to be turning to putting things back together rather than pulling apart!
Speaking of which - next problem is - does anyone know of a supplier of A4/316 stainless steel set screws in M6 and only 5mm long - I am struggling to find anything that short.
I also wondered if these should be point or cup headed? (The ones I removed were cup)?
Robert
rob2
Well-Known Member
Someone has already mentioned that similar screws are used on propellors, so I expect you might get a few from a propellor supplier.
Incidentally, I would be inclined to run a M6 tap down the thread before fitting the new screws with a little Loctite on them. I believe the screws should be pointed to lightly indent the bearing.
Rob.
Incidentally, I would be inclined to run a M6 tap down the thread before fitting the new screws with a little Loctite on them. I believe the screws should be pointed to lightly indent the bearing.
Rob.
theoldsalt
Well-Known Member
RobW,
Does this help ?
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/stainless_grub_screws.htm
M6x6mm towards bottom of the page
Also RS here :-
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sear...0212-_-0Fasteners-_-grub_screws-_-grub_screws
Does this help ?
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/stainless_grub_screws.htm
M6x6mm towards bottom of the page
Also RS here :-
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sear...0212-_-0Fasteners-_-grub_screws-_-grub_screws
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Spyro
Well-Known Member
When I did mine I used cone headed set screws, huge range of sizes on Ebay. Search for grub screw turns up more results
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Tidewaiter2
Well-Known Member
Glad you sorted it...
.. a bit late in the day, but here's a tip our eldest passed on to his Dad;
he had a fair bit of armourer work to do on compressed air gun barrels where punters had overtightened or otherwise caused to be seized certain grub screws- hex, torx, slot and cross headed in the butt end or air feed end.
To scrap a whole gun/barrel was not an economic option, so he'd clean it all up very carefully, then superglue the right type of cheaper bit to the grub screw, put it aside to dry/cure throughly-24hrs sometimes, apply gentle heat, then barrel to padded vice and long tommy bar/pipe on socket/T handle on bit.
Bingo
you lose the screw/bit mind
.. a bit late in the day, but here's a tip our eldest passed on to his Dad;
he had a fair bit of armourer work to do on compressed air gun barrels where punters had overtightened or otherwise caused to be seized certain grub screws- hex, torx, slot and cross headed in the butt end or air feed end.
To scrap a whole gun/barrel was not an economic option, so he'd clean it all up very carefully, then superglue the right type of cheaper bit to the grub screw, put it aside to dry/cure throughly-24hrs sometimes, apply gentle heat, then barrel to padded vice and long tommy bar/pipe on socket/T handle on bit.
Bingo
you lose the screw/bit mind
SAMYL
Well-Known Member
Forget all the drilling etc. advice you have had here, good and all as it is, get yourself one of these kits, especially designed for mangled screw heads. 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BROKEN-DA...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item484090d128
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BROKEN-DA...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item484090d128
theoldsalt
Well-Known Member
Samyl,
You're a bit late with the advise. See post 23 !!!
It pays to read the whole thread first.
You're a bit late with the advise. See post 23 !!!
It pays to read the whole thread first.
mcframe
Well-Known Member
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=150&store=uk
That 2-6mm set is now about twice what I paid for mine, but if it fell overboard†, I'd buy another set tomorrow.
Click up for 3/8 and 1/2 drive versions, or have a look in Halfords (that's where I bought my 8-14mm ones).
†Ok, in >5M of water...
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
Be careful not to sqeeze the new bearing with the grub screw, drill a dimple or drill and tap the bearing.
The screw is added security as the bearing should be held by epoxy or the interference fit. Epoxy makes for far easier removal.
The screw is added security as the bearing should be held by epoxy or the interference fit. Epoxy makes for far easier removal.
SAMYL
Well-Known Member
I read through most of the thread and got fed up with all the totally irrelevant and useless advice so missed post 23.
The link posted there is not quite the same thing but similar idea so I'm sure it will have the same result.
Why on this forum is there always someone to criticise and put you down. A "thank you" for the advice would have been appreciated.
