How to get an anchor to come up the right way

[Ex-SolentBoy]

My anchor (type unspecified, please let's not go there as it has happened to me with several makes of anchor) sometimes comes up the right way and just pops onto the bow roller.

Sometimes though, it comes up the wrong way round and I have to turn it through 180 degress, which is not easy as it is heavy.

The bow roller has a slot in it for the chain.

Should I let all the chain out and make sure it is aligned perfectly?
How does it get twisted in the first place?
Is there some other well know fix for this that I am the only one who is not in the know?

 

[oldvarnish]

You don't say which anchor, but it could make a difference.

The anchor can spin as it rises if there is any forward motion of the boat through the water - it doesn't have to be very much. This is because the anchor (if it is a 'modern' type) has flukes with an aerofoil shape to them. In moving water, these will align in the direction of least resistance which might not be the direction you want.
I'm not certain there's a way to stop it. I found it very annoying too. We had a swivel, and once I'd got rid of that it was much better - you'd think it would be the other way round.

 

[Sans Bateau]

You need one of these:

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/Anchor-Connectors-Swivels.html

We have one and our anchor does a quick twist to hook side down as it rolls onto the bow roller.

Kong is the only one to get, according to test reports.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

You need one of these:

http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/Anchor-Connectors-Swivels.html

We have one and our anchor does a quick twist to hook side down as it rolls onto the bow roller.

Kong is the only one to get, according to test reports.

Looks like a great idea. However, are galvanized iron and stainless steel safe from the point of view of corrosion? I imagine the majority of us have galvanized anchors.

 

[Robin]

Looks like a great idea. However, are galvanized iron and stainless steel safe from the point of view of corrosion? I imagine the majority of us have galvanized anchors.

Had a S/S swivel for years and never had a corrosion problem any more than with galvanised shackles. S/S shackles however did seem to cause the first chain link to lose it's galvanising.

Swivel stops most of the wrong way round problems, just as long as the anchor roller is wide enough and high enough sided to stop the anchor escaping as it flips right way up. Otherwise make sure you are not moving forwards with the anchor hanging in the water as it will align itself point ahead. It might help therefore to be drifting slightly back as the chain clears the water for the same reason, but I never tested that theory in anger.

 

[KellysEye]

Lower it until it's just touching the water and it should straighten as the twist come out. I've seen two boats on the rocks because of broken swivels.

 

[Ex-SolentBoy]

I really don't like the idea of a swivel. Just seems an avoidable link in the chain (pardon the pun) that might break.

I will certainly make sure we are not causing the problem with water flow.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Lower it until it's just touching the water and it should straighten as the twist come out......

I do this with my CQR. I dont use a swivel. If the anchor chain is twisted just give it time to untwist using the water to dampen the spin. I then shorten the anchor scope and wait for the anchor to present its self correctly and then pull the stock over the roller with the windless. If I get the timing wrong gravity soon rolls the CQR the right way.

If you dont have sea room to faff about leave the anchor in the water such that the stock is just clear and move to a position where you have room. The anchor will not bang against your hull, it will adopt a position that is quite stable as you move forward at a slow speed.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Lower it until it's just touching the water and it should straighten as the twist come out. I've seen two boats on the rocks because of broken swivels.

There are some micky mouse swivels on the market, I'm pretty confident in saying that the Kong is about the best you can get. I choose Kong after reading an test in YM, which if I remember correctly Mr Cox scribed.

Here you are:

http://coxengineering.co.uk/chainandconnectors.aspx

 

[Stu Jackson]

It seems to be that unless you fit one of those very smart anchor thingies, you only have a 50/50 chance of an anchor coming up on the bow roller the right way. That's because there are only two ways to do it!

I'm on the bow anyway (no windlass except my arms and legs) and I just twist the chain with the anchor getting closer to the roller. Our roller is rather thin, so the shank doesn't have room to flip itself over (Rocna).

 

[BrianH]

It seems to be that unless you fit one of those very smart anchor thingies, you only have a 50/50 chance of an anchor coming up on the bow roller the right way. That's because there are only two ways to do it!
I'm on the bow anyway (no windlass except my arms and legs) and I just twist the chain with the anchor getting closer to the roller. Our roller is rather thin, so the shank doesn't have room to flip itself over (Rocna).

I'm on the bow too, but with an electric winch and remote control. If I see the anchor getting close to the bow roller and swinging point up (Rocna) I stop raising, grasp the chain aft of the roller fitting, twist it and resume raising - the anchor always rolls over correctly.

N.B. remove hand well before winch