How to get a quote for new standing rigging?

Go on the Jimmy Green website and there is a calculator to give you a price for materials. They will also make up to your existing wires so that you can do it yourself. Not necessarily the cheapest, but a good guide to likely cost and they do provide a good service.
 
If your boat is well enough known (is it a Javelin?) all the major rig companies will have sufficient data on file to do you a quote. Then send them your existing rigging so that they can match it (don't try taking lengths off plans!) and they will post it back to you along with the new stuff. Then, erm, fit it.

I've never even met a rigger, let alone paid one to do anything to my boat; they are mythical creatures. Perhaps if I knew of one in the area I would use their services. But to date I have quite happily managed to pop in the clevis pins all by myself and my mast has never fallen down. Having said that, it would be nice to get my rig properly tuned by a pro, but I wouldn't consider that essential.
 
Kelpie said:
I've never even met a rigger, let alone paid one to do anything to my boat; they are mythical creatures. Perhaps if I knew of one in the area I would use their services. But to date I have quite happily managed to pop in the clevis pins all by myself and my mast has never fallen down. Having said that, it would be nice to get my rig properly tuned by a pro, but I wouldn't consider that essential.
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When I bought new standing rigging for my old boat (when the original rigging was a mere 21 years old), I got the riggers along to set it up properly after the marina had stepped the mast. I was astounded at how taut it was! And of course we joked about whether the cabin doors below would still open and close, and they did. So all was well, and the riggers told me that the prime cause of rigging failure is flexing as a result of insufficient tension. Apparently we owners don't ever dare to wind enough tension on the fittings.
 
pvb said:
When I bought new standing rigging for my old boat (when the original rigging was a mere 21 years old), I got the riggers along to set it up properly after the marina had stepped the mast. I was astounded at how taut it was! And of course we joked about whether the cabin doors below would still open and close, and they did. So all was well, and the riggers told me that the prime cause of rigging failure is flexing as a result of insufficient tension. Apparently we owners don't ever dare to wind enough tension on the fittings.
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Last year I wound mine so tight I feared the decks would lift - reassuring to hear your experience!
 
Price it on Jimmy Greens website including any discounts. Then suitable armed with info contact Jamie Hogan at Caley Marine In verness and ask him to price match! . He normally does!

John
 
pvb said:
When I bought new standing rigging for my old boat (when the original rigging was a mere 21 years old), I got the riggers along to set it up properly after the marina had stepped the mast. I was astounded at how taut it was! And of course we joked about whether the cabin doors below would still open and close, and they did. So all was well, and the riggers told me that the prime cause of rigging failure is flexing as a result of insufficient tension. Apparently we owners don't ever dare to wind enough tension on the fittings.
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I will bet that even with that degree of rigging static tension you still get the lee shrouds slack when hard driven on reach or beat. The fact is that you can never get enough static tension to alleviate fatigue in the wire. Simply the average hull is not stiff enough let alone the mast and wire in the load circuit. So I reckon your rigger is only talking about the wire and not the hull in the load circuit. In other words IMHO a large static tension of rig does nothing but distort the hull.
Consider you have a cap shroud trying to hold the mast top to windward. The load is transferred to the mast and spreaders in compression down to the chain plates. Here the load turns into forces stretching the GRP up wards and the hull inwards down to the base of the compression post. That is the load circuit.
Or forestay to the bow then through the hull to the mast compression post. likewise the back stay so that the whole hull bends like a banana. Not much but enough to make it hard to keep that tension under sail load.
So I say phooey to riggers and large static loads on rigging wires. olewill
 
That sounds quite a keen price to me, I paid twice that for my Mirage re rig 10 years ago.
As far as rig tension goes, I helped a friend set up the rigging on his MacWester ketch using a borrowed Loos gauge and referring to various published data. The recommended tension was enormous for an elderley boat and we chickened out.
 
I've never had my rigging set up by anyone. If you pay a rigger to do this, do they take responsibility if a chainplate shears or pulls out of the hull? Where does the 'rig' (and their responsibility) end?
 
I was told by a rigger that I couldn't overtension the rig with an 8" spanner no matter how hard I tried. 10mm Dyform shrouds.
 
William_H said:
I will bet that even with that degree of rigging static tension you still get the lee shrouds slack when hard driven on reach or beat. The fact is that you can never get enough static tension to alleviate fatigue in the wire. Simply the average hull is not stiff enough let alone the mast and wire in the load circuit. So I reckon your rigger is only talking about the wire and not the hull in the load circuit. In other words IMHO a large static tension of rig does nothing but distort the hull.
Consider you have a cap shroud trying to hold the mast top to windward. The load is transferred to the mast and spreaders in compression down to the chain plates. Here the load turns into forces stretching the GRP up wards and the hull inwards down to the base of the compression post. That is the load circuit.
Or forestay to the bow then through the hull to the mast compression post. likewise the back stay so that the whole hull bends like a banana. Not much but enough to make it hard to keep that tension under sail load.
So I say phooey to riggers and large static loads on rigging wires. olewill
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I reckon you've just demonstrated why you wouldn't get a job as a rigger!
 
Any contractor working on your boat should carry professional liability insurance. so he'd (or she'd) be covered if any damage were caused while the work was being carried out. Same as contractors working on your house or felling trees in the garden.
Kelpie said:
I've never had my rigging set up by anyone. If you pay a rigger to do this, do they take responsibility if a chainplate shears or pulls out of the hull? Where does the 'rig' (and their responsibility) end?
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