How to furl an furling mainsail?

Paddy Fields

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Hi all

Is there any problems around furling in a mainsail in strong wind, and if so what are the tricks to make it easier?

Only used a furling mainsail a couple of times, and in fair conditions. Furling in the main was just a case of pointing into the wind and grinding it in, which was, well, quite a grind. It made me ponder if the same strategy would work under heavy winds, or would the drag on the sail make it impossible. Ive heard pointing slightly off to stop the sail rubbing against the mast will reduce the friction, but that clearly aint going to stop the windage on the main.

In strong winds, to furl a headsail if you point downwind, that seems to make it a lot easier (I'm not totally sure why). Is there a similar strategy for the furling main? Or is it is just a case of grinding it in, regardless of the conditions. Just a bit wary, since grinding in a headsail is a good way to break the headsail furling mechanism, and I have no feeling about what the breaking point is for a furling main.

Of course, reefing early might mitigate any furling woes, but what if the mechanism pops open, and it all unfurles "by itself".

Thanks

Dan
 
Look at the way the sail furls on the scroll. Many yachts are set up so that furling is easier if you are just slightly on starboard tack, so that that the sails feeds cleanly onto the scroll. In that configuration, if you are on port tack the sail has to feed round the side of the mast groove before going on to the scroll, which makes it hard work.
 
Look at the way the sail furls on the scroll. Many yachts are set up so that furling is easier if you are just slightly on starboard tack, so that that the sails feeds cleanly onto the scroll. In that configuration, if you are on port tack the sail has to feed round the side of the mast groove before going on to the scroll, which makes it hard work.

+1
 
In strong winds, to furl a headsail if you point downwind, that seems to make it a lot easier (I'm not totally sure why). Is there a similar strategy for the furling main?

The huge difference is there is no mast slot on the headsail! Thus if you are going (not just pointing) downwind the apparent wind, and thus the force on the sail, is less. Maybe if you had a swivelling mast...

Mike.
 
Thanks for all the answers, even the “shrugs“ :-)

Hopefully my woes were caused by the fact that it was on a poorly maintained charter boat with a worn sail, and not because I was doing something fundamentally wrong!
 
Thanks for all the answers, even the “shrugs“ :-)

Hopefully my woes were caused by the fact that it was on a poorly maintained charter boat with a worn sail, and not because I was doing something fundamentally wrong!

Most likely.

We bought a boat with a furling main and fir the first season we struggled. Next season, no issues.

The difference - rinsed all the blocks with hot water, lubricated where required, washed the furling line which was so fouled with salt that it basically maintained it's shape! Doubt it had been cleaned ever!

Reefed easily in 28 knots of apparent wind (long story)

The only other point to consider is to e sure that the angle of the boom and halyard tension are correct - They are very sensitive to both.

Then it's down to technique - just on starboard tack and small amount of tension on the outhaul. Was usually the kids job to furl the main as loads so low.
 
On a quiet day pull the mainsail fully out. Experiment with topping lift and kicker to achieve as flat as possible sail. If the sail has some shape you won't get it completely flat but you are looking for equal tension on leech and foot. Note the position of the boom and devise a measure which is readily identifiable in less then perfect conditions (mine is a hand span between sprayhood and bottom of boom) and then always return the boom to that same place when furling. As mentioned above it is best very slightly on starboard tack to present the sail to the right side of the foil in the mast. Slight tension on outhaul. I tend to wind the winch at the mast rather then use the endless line on a cockpit winch simply because all line friction is removed by this method. Works for me. We have vertical battens in the main too.
 
On a quiet day pull the mainsail fully out. Experiment with topping lift and kicker to achieve as flat as possible sail. If the sail has some shape you won't get it completely flat but you are looking for equal tension on leech and foot. Note the position of the boom and devise a measure which is readily identifiable in less then perfect conditions (mine is a hand span between sprayhood and bottom of boom) and then always return the boom to that same place when furling. As mentioned above it is best very slightly on starboard tack to present the sail to the right side of the foil in the mast. Slight tension on outhaul. I tend to wind the winch at the mast rather then use the endless line on a cockpit winch simply because all line friction is removed by this method. Works for me. We have vertical battens in the main too.

While I agree that it works best with the wind slightly to starboard, I don't find that the height of the boom makes any difference. After all, the sail is not directly attached to the boom, merely held by the two components of the outhaul. I think that by going up to the mast and using a handle in the winch, you are missing out on one of the main benefits of in mast furling, namely not having to leave the cockpit.
 
Paddy if you find after doing what been suggested here you still have a problem , get you sail looked at ,
we use to have to put our feet on cabin sides to get enough pull on our ,
our new sail we can reef it in with the boom left well alone, pointing in the wind on port or starboard it makes no different, best part now my partner can do it with easy .
 
Paddy if you find after doing what been suggested here you still have a problem , get you sail looked at ,
we use to have to put our feet on cabin sides to get enough pull on our ,
our new sail we can reef it in with the boom left well alone, pointing in the wind on port or starboard it makes no different, best part now my partner can do it with easy .

It's a chartering question for me. But now Ive got a load of good ideas to give a try next time, thanks!
 
While I agree that it works best with the wind slightly to starboard, I don't find that the height of the boom makes any difference. After all, the sail is not directly attached to the boom, merely held by the two components of the outhaul. I think that by going up to the mast and using a handle in the winch, you are missing out on one of the main benefits of in mast furling, namely not having to leave the cockpit.

Interesting. I find that if i have creases going in to the slot, either on the foot or the leech, this tends to cause the sail to bind in the mast. For me boom angle is key hence the equal tension on leech and foot which pulls out the creases.

I don't furl from on deck if it's horrid - then I furl from the cockpit.
 
You don't need strong winds to have problems, they're supplied with a suite of problems which manifest in all weathers.
 
I have had inmast on my Corsair for 25 years and the last 10 years had vertical patens I have yet to have any problem mine is a Seldon rig with continuous line furling. When stowing the main I head up wind if possible on slight starboard tack I release the out haul and whined in by hand never used a winch, if hard on the wind I need to reef I release the main sheet let out the amount of outhaul that represents the reef I need and haul in the outhaul on the winch reset the main sheet.
Mike
 
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I have had inmast on my Corsair for 25 years and the last 10 years had vertical patens I have yet to have any problem mine is a Seldon rig with continuous line furling. When stowing the main I head up wind if possible on slight starboard tack I release the out haul and whined in by hand never used a winch, if hard on the wind I need to reef I release the main sheet let out the amount of outhaul that represents the reef I need and haul in the outhaul on the winch reset the main sheet.
Mike

Similar for me, no problems, always do it by hand, do not need to use the wynch
 
+1
Interesting. I find that if i have creases going in to the slot, either on the foot or the leech, this tends to cause the sail to bind in the mast. For me boom angle is key hence the equal tension on leech and foot which pulls out the creases.

I don't furl from on deck if it's horrid - then I furl from the cockpit.
 
We have an Easyreef mainsail furling system on our Rival 32. We were finding it difficult to furl and unfurl, until we realised that the problem was caused by friction of the furling line around the cylinder. The rope was too thick - I think it was a 10mm line which had furred and hardened with age. We changed it for an 8mm line, which we discovered via another forum is the correct diameter, and it has been a revelation. Very easy to furl and unfurl.
 
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