STATUE
Well-Known Member
I presume that roll and tip is better than brush and tip.
But whichever, how do you do it if you are on your own ?
But whichever, how do you do it if you are on your own ?
How to Brush/Roll and tip paint when on your own?
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Quandary
Well-Known Member
Either can work well but I think brush application requires a little more skill.
However, I do not think that doing an area of any size on your own will work, keeping a wet edge will rush you too much. Any sort of a helper will do, give them the roller, show them how much to load it and instruct them not to try to apply too much or go too fast, follow closely behind with a new foam brush or a really good quality gloss brush, minimum 3" and lightly stroke the surface to kill the bubbles, the secret is not to overwork it. Plan a starting point and finishing point in advance.
Good access is critical, jumping up and down ladders will not work, if you are brushing a hull get some planks and at least three trestles.
However, I do not think that doing an area of any size on your own will work, keeping a wet edge will rush you too much. Any sort of a helper will do, give them the roller, show them how much to load it and instruct them not to try to apply too much or go too fast, follow closely behind with a new foam brush or a really good quality gloss brush, minimum 3" and lightly stroke the surface to kill the bubbles, the secret is not to overwork it. Plan a starting point and finishing point in advance.
Good access is critical, jumping up and down ladders will not work, if you are brushing a hull get some planks and at least three trestles.
Ardenfour
Well-Known Member
Ardenfour
Well-Known Member
Get a hold of some Owatrol oil, and a well worn 5" brush. Add oil to the paint, testing on a piece of glass or perspex - add oil till the brush no longer 'drags'.
The oil increases the drying out time so you have a much longer wet edge, the brush marks will disappear and you'll think the finish has been sprayed on. (Depending upon preparation of course!)
The oil increases the drying out time so you have a much longer wet edge, the brush marks will disappear and you'll think the finish has been sprayed on. (Depending upon preparation of course!)
pvb
Well-Known Member
Having helped a friend roll and tip a boat, I don't think you can happily manage it on your own.
Capt. Clueless
Well-Known Member
I did my complete Snapdragon hull on my own. Rolled and furled (tip) worked quickly and efficiently, and it came out a really lovely job and certainly as good as if two people did it. Depends on confidence on your abilities.
chrishelen
N/A
I did my old Eventide on my own. I wouldn't do it again as it's a bit of a job. Dried like glass in the day, but damp hot in overnight and bloom got into the shine. I guess it's a summer job rather than an early spring when I did it.
tross
Well-Known Member
Having done this a few years ago with "boat enamel" which is not the fastest drying paint, is to makes sure you "work the paint in" really well with the roller before tipping off
thinwater
Well-Known Member
I've been quite successful picking the right roller (mohair), playing with the weather and solvent, and skipping most of the tipping. With practice and the right adjustments, you can roll it out like glass.
Alternatively, just brush. Takes practice and a good brush (preferably not new--they seem to get finer with age, to a point, if well cared for.).
Alternatively, just brush. Takes practice and a good brush (preferably not new--they seem to get finer with age, to a point, if well cared for.).
Quandary
Well-Known Member
Size of the boat is an issue but I second the advice to add Owatrol to make application easier and to extend the wet time if you are using Toplac or similar oil based paint.
Having said that, two pack paint is the right way to go, it is a bit more trouble and you dare not go back until it is dry but its durability is a multiple of the single pack paints. A big steel hull we did eight years ago is still looking new. I might consider buying a GRP boat that had been Awlgripped but would avoid a Toplac job no matter how good it looked because of the work involved in restoring it down the line, you need to use fender skirts all the time.
I hang about a boat yard with not a lot to do so get involved in painting quite a bit but other than boot top lines I have never painted a boat of my own and would hope to continue to avoid it.
Having said that, two pack paint is the right way to go, it is a bit more trouble and you dare not go back until it is dry but its durability is a multiple of the single pack paints. A big steel hull we did eight years ago is still looking new. I might consider buying a GRP boat that had been Awlgripped but would avoid a Toplac job no matter how good it looked because of the work involved in restoring it down the line, you need to use fender skirts all the time.
I hang about a boat yard with not a lot to do so get involved in painting quite a bit but other than boot top lines I have never painted a boat of my own and would hope to continue to avoid it.
Gordonmc
Well-Known Member
I have no choice but to paint my 38 footer on my own (nae mates) and have no problem with roll n' tip.
A third endorsement for Owatrol added to the paint. It allows more time for the wet edge which means I can move an access platform around the hull.
I have been using Toplac and will do so again before launch this year only because I have some left over. I won't use it again on the grounds of cost and the fact it takes ages to harden up.
A third endorsement for Owatrol added to the paint. It allows more time for the wet edge which means I can move an access platform around the hull.
I have been using Toplac and will do so again before launch this year only because I have some left over. I won't use it again on the grounds of cost and the fact it takes ages to harden up.