How much will I weaken steel bar, by drilling through it?

Assuming they are on the outside, try hacksawing off the lips on the bore reducer, then they should separate from the wheel, with the the aid of some force of course.

Then hacksaw the reducers off and clean underneath as previously advised.

You should be able to get new inserts off ebay somewhere.
 
penfold said:
The steel axle has corroded and rust occupies several times the volume of the steel it is made from; the extra volume has expanded the plastic sleeve, jamming it on the axle and expanding it in turn, creating extra drag on the wheel.
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It is just as you say. I was thinking the wheel had always turned within the bore-reducer, but that turned too, when first fitted.

It's unfortunate because short of the vinegar-bucket, I don't think it can be solved undestructively.

But I'm now keen to build a new trolley employing double-wheels and tyres to spread the considerable load. The existing trolley was always a bit tight for space.

I'm assuming (unless there is a better (cheap DIY) suggestion), that a weight-lifter's bar is strong enough. It's certainly long enough. Is there a cheaper way?

Assuming that a normal, simple launching trolley is designed to have the inside of the plastic wheel hubs simply pressing their shared load onto the steel axle, what is the best grease to use, and the best way to keep it where it's needed?

Also, what sort of timber should I be using for the cross-piece of the trolley? I've always assumed my old one is hardwood because it seems to have survived many years without maintenance. But is a baulk of timber better than layered epoxied marine ply?
 
dancrane said:
I don't think it can be solved undestructively.
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Treat yourself and save several days of hassle. You'll only end up doing it anyway
ae235

Pneumatic Wheel 360mm Diameter
 
Thanks Stemar - but I'm not sure what you're recommending.

I already have a pair of pneumatic trolley-wheels to replace the durable but unforgiving solid rubber ones. The issue was whether to keep trying to revive the old trolley from which I had believed the solid wheels might be immovable - or whether to make a new one. I'm going to do both.

The pneumatic tyres will hopefully fit on the de-rusted, painted, lubricated old axle...and before the next time that lets me down, I will hopefully have constructed a new trolley with doubled wheels, kevlar tube protectors and a load of new plastic bottles to rest the boat on. :)
 
Have you tried pouring boiling water over the stuck bits? Have you looked at self lubricating bushes? SKF, Oilite, are the makes I remember from a long time ago.
 
I hadn't tried those, no, but thanks.

I reckon the bushes which I've been calling 'bore-reducers' are damaged now anyway by my attempts to shift them, so I'm not afraid to cut them away to free the wheel, and to expose the rust-expanded axle.

Then I'll sand, paint and lube, and henceforth I'll use 25mm-bore pneumatic wheels anyway.

I'm only in doubt what's the best way to keep the grease from being squeezed out of the sides by the movement of the wheel on the axle. It isn't a proper bearing with balls that create a space that the grease occupies - it's just a smooth axle inside a slightly bigger smooth bore.
 
I am, frankly, in despair. How can a simple refurb of an old launch trolley cause so much consternation?
The 'axle' takes hardly any weight, only the short section between the end of the wood and the wheel hub. It's only 160Kg load. 80 Kg per wheel. Hole drilling is irrelevant, unless you drill next to the end of the bit of wood..
You have an angle grinder. (got 1mm cutting discs?) You have new wheels. Destroy the old ones to remove them and work on from that point. Smack **** out of them with a hammer if needs be.
Don't use Hammerite paint. Waste of money. Use Rustoleum.

Axle spacers, if required are better made from plastic or nylon. Then you have plastic running on plastic, or nylon. Not as though you are moving the trolley far, or fast. If you don't whip the wheels off once a year and clean and lubricate, it will deteriorate.
 
The axle appears to only be bolted to the wood?
Buy new bolts and a length of 25mm galv conduit from Toolfix or Screwstation and replace the axle.

It's steel and it's getting dipped in the sea everytime you use it. It won't last forever. Even if you hose it off every time, 15 years of racing a dinghy every weekend and the trolley gets to look sordid. That's life. But a conduit axle should last a few years of frequent use. I tend not to lube mine, as our dinghy park is tightly packed and nobody wants grease on their sailing kit. It's only a problem if you don't use the boat often enough, then the rust gets rough enough to chew the plastic or jam it solid.

A few people I know have stainless trollies. These can be made lighter and they are to be coveted. A few have alloy. It makes a difference on the steep beach or slip way.

A lot of the cheap trolley wheels have really nasty plasticky tyres which only last a year.
I've used old road trailer tyres.
When I had a heavier boat, launched off a beach, I fitted much wider 'lawn tyres' and tubes, it's amazing how wide a tyre you can get on a standard plastic wheel if you try!
 
Caraway said:
I am, frankly, in despair.
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Why? I only wondered how to keep the grease where it's needed.

I have to say though, like many practical boat problems, it's less straightforward than your brisk approach suggests. I've damaged the bushes in the existing wheels, but the wheels themselves are fine and were £30 each, so I don't want to destroy them to shift them.

Mr Calvert had the answer, above - I only need to sacrifice the bushes to get the wheels off, before refurbishing the axle.

In respect of building a new trolley, drilling the bar has been rendered irrelevant by the U-clamps suggestion. I still wonder if a 10mm hole drilled through a round 25mm steel bar close to the end of the supporting timber above, would weaken the bar substantially; I'm glad not to need to find out.

But your point about the weight being borne only by the section sticking out, is interesting. If I can get away with two short bars instead of a single six-footer (1850mm), I can save cash; but I picture the timber bowing in the middle and the wheels out of plumb. ?

TernVI said:
Buy new bolts... and replace the axle.
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Hmm...it's not quite so lightly done as typed. I thought I had found a six-foot long, 1-inch diameter Argos weight-trainer's bar for £29.95, but it was in Wick, over 500 miles away, and delivery wasn't offered. I think Metals4U sell what I need for around £50, then there's delivery; plus the clamps and new timber. Then I want to put two pneumatic tyres on each end of the axle to increase the load-spread, like your 'lawn tyres'. In theory a new DIY trolley shouldn't be costly, but I'll be surprised if it isn't.
 
I have revitalised many old launch trolleys and converted trailers to trolleys.
You are overthinking it. A bit of galavanised conduit will support that boat, no problem.
Cut the existing 'axle' behind the wheel leaving you free to belt the stub out. With ingenuity you could whack the axle out from the outer end by supporting the wheel from behind at a height sufficient to leave the trolley hanging for the attempt.
Far too long has been spent pondering.

Get stuck in.
 
Caraway said:
With ingenuity you could whack the axle out from the outer end by supporting the wheel from behind at a height sufficient to leave the trolley hanging for the attempt.
Click to expand...

I need that clarifying...am I alone? It sounds clever but I can't picture what you're describing.

I won't "get stuck in" till I have at least some idea where I'm going with it. That'd be daft.
 
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