How much water left in engine block - winter?

Several points I would make to answer your concerns, which have been touched on by others but they need bringing together.

1. An antifreeze mix will protect to very low temps so shouldn't freeze
2. In the parts that have been drained, the antifreeze mix forms a coating which will help to limit (although may not not entirely prevent) corrosion. Evene if there is some corrosion it'll only be a light surface coating. Get some antifreeze on your hands and let it dry naturally. You'll see what I mean
3. Even if there is some residual water antifreeze mix left in the bottom of the block, there is plenty of room above it to expand into is it were to freeze, so it shouldn't cause any damage. But this isn't likely anyway, see #1.

What this all adds up to is - don't worry.
 
Several points I would make to answer your concerns, which have been touched on by others but they need bringing together.

1. An antifreeze mix will protect to very low temps so shouldn't freeze
2. In the parts that have been drained, the antifreeze mix forms a coating which will help to limit (although may not not entirely prevent) corrosion. Evene if there is some corrosion it'll only be a light surface coating. Get some antifreeze on your hands and let it dry naturally. You'll see what I mean
3. Even if there is some residual water antifreeze mix left in the bottom of the block, there is plenty of room above it to expand into is it were to freeze, so it shouldn't cause any damage. But this isn't likely anyway, see #1.

What this all adds up to is - don't worry.

Perfect.

Feet-up time and await the wind to die down, sun to come out and to don the overalls.
In the meantime,
Slainte :encouragement:
 
The engine will have an anode although they aren't usually very big - so maybe it will have had an anode! It will also be attached to the anode on the outside of the hull. I would still keep the engine topped up with fresh water/anti-freeze.

Fresh water cooled engines do not normally have an anode in the engine coolant circuit . That is protected from corrosion by the inhibitors in the antifreeze which is one reason why antifreeze mixture is used all year round. It may however have an anode in the sea water circuit, usually at one end of the heat exchanger, but that is a different matter.
Any connection between the engine and a hull anode is irrelevant as far as engine protection is concerned. Any such connection will be part of the bonding between the hull anode and the prop for protection of the prop
 
Fresh water cooled engines do not normally have an anode in the engine coolant circuit . That is protected from corrosion by the inhibitors in the antifreeze which is one reason why antifreeze mixture is used all year round. It may however have an anode in the sea water circuit, usually at one end of the heat exchanger, but that is a different matter.
Any connection between the engine and a hull anode is irrelevant as far as engine protection is concerned. Any such connection will be part of the bonding between the hull anode and the prop for protection of the prop

I see. Thanks for the info. I assumed that the "hull anode" would be connected to "negative earth" and the battery which is itself connected to the engine - and the whole point of the anode was that it would corrode preferentially rather than anything made of iron, a bit like galvanising steel.

Anyway - I stand corrected. Apologies to the OP for the duff info.
 
I see. Thanks for the info. I assumed that the "hull anode" would be connected to "negative earth" and the battery which is itself connected to the engine - and the whole point of the anode was that it would corrode preferentially rather than anything made of iron, a bit like galvanising steel.

Anyway - I stand corrected. Apologies to the OP for the duff info.

The Beta-branded version has a pencil shaped anode in the heat exchanger, stbd side AFAIR. Just looks like a bolt head from the outside.
Mine used to corrode to a stub annually. It was originally supplied as one complete assembly, but latterly they supplied a replacement "pencil" which you fitted into the recess in the brass (bronze?) "bolt".
 
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I see. Thanks for the info. I assumed that the "hull anode" would be connected to "negative earth" and the battery which is itself connected to the engine - and the whole point of the anode was that it would corrode preferentially rather than anything made of iron, a bit like galvanising steel.

Anyway - I stand corrected. Apologies to the OP for the duff info.

No problem.
And to add to your post I too thought like you until I had Khamsin totally, professionally re-wired four years ago. The engineer removed the snake's nest of "linking" wiring previously installed and finished it off as VicS stated.
 
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