How much to replace our deck tread?

Sail the boat to Tunisia and get it done there.

I was speaking some time ago to a Breton who had moved his 45' boat there and the marina was half inhabited by Bretons who found both moorings and maintenance a fraction of the cost that it was at home.

In addition he mentionned cheap flights to get there.

At those sort of prices it may well be worth it.

Yes but will your boat still be there when you get back?
 
A new teak deck on a fat 38 footer would be a LOT more than 13K plus Osborne's 20%.
Yes, probably, but the labour content would be similar, particularly the stripping. Material potentially big difference depending on thickness method of fixing and quality.
 
I have had a chat to the yard manager. He agreed that perhaps not quite as many fittings would have to be removed as first thought, but he's still allowed 280 hours for the work at £40 odd per hour. Most of it is removing the old tread master and glue and that figure is a big incentive for doing it ourselves...

We've negotiated on the peeling of the bottom and coats of Gel-shield etc and he's coming up with a new figure.
 
As no one else seems to want to guess I'll reveal all



Winter storage thrown in for free if I take them up on the offer. The hull treatment might be ok but nearly £13k for doing the deck isn't going to happen!

hull treatment is a good price but......

you wash with fresh water (or steam) until it's dry. Sounds perverse, but when drying osmosis you are not removing water, that dries in hours. 2 days of fresh water will not do.

the 1 coat of gelshield is simply to put a tie coat of solvented epoxy (which has an infinite overcoating window) on top of your solvent free repair epoxy. However you would expect the solvent free epoxy to be fully sanded to remove any imperfections, in which case the single coat of solvented is superfluous - sanded (ie keyed) solvent free epoxy can also be overcoated at any time. If they had a perfect finish and were happy to overcoat the final layer of solvent free within its overcoating window, why not put the coppercoat on rather than a pointless coat of 200. They also seem to have missed out the abrasive blast that's needed after the peel.

You need to see the full proposed process and references I think, there is enough in this quote to cast doubt on their methods.
 

Toad,

There's no touching naivety. The answer is that I have never had a yard do anything to our boat(s) and at those prices I am not likely to start now. The costs I mentioned before are still just as accurate as they were when I posted them. I was posting them because although I knew yard prices were high, having never had quotes from a yard before, I never realised they were quite that high! Yard prices are never part of our yachting budget.

Osmosis treatment has always been eye watering as far as I am concerned and the deck will just get done by me a bit at a time for the few pounds (by comparison) that the materials cost.

If people wish to pay to keep their boats in marinas and pay to have the boat yard maintain them, then boating is a VERY expensive hobby. My point has always been that it doesn't have to be that way. Nothing naive about it, but it does mean that you have to be a bit practical and DIY.

We might grit out teeth and have the copper coat put on after the hull is treated, but the truth is that the hull doesn't really need to be treated. There are only the faintest trace of a few blisters in one small patch at the turn of the bilge port side. But we are hoping to go off blue water sailing and Copper Coat would help with the anitfouling problems of being afloat for a year or three.
 
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