how much slack in a continuous furling line?

[ChattingLil]

I have continuous furling lines for the headsails which I am about to replace. The lines each feed through 3 blocks along the coachroof and then back to blocks behind the cockpit. When I rig them, how much slack should I put in? Advice gratefully received as ever.

 

[ianfr]

Hi Lisa

Our furling line comes right aft just short of the push pit. I found that by having the slack fed through a snatch block, held by bungee it keeps a slight tension on and makes furling easier.

The furling line passes through a jammer, and in strong winds there is enough slack to take a turn round a handy cleat. That is particularly important, as you do NOT want it slipping the jammer and unfurling!

Regards

Ian & Jo

 

[sailorman]

I have continuous furling lines for the headsails which I am about to replace. The lines each feed through 3 blocks along the coachroof and then back to blocks behind the cockpit. When I rig them, how much slack should I put in? Advice gratefully received as ever.

Suggest you ask John ( i introduced him to you ) he can splice as well.

 

[ChattingLil]

I did. that's two weekends in a row that he said he was working and would come and see us, but hasn't. Too busy I guess!

Was talking to Karen and Patrick at the weekend and we reckon that, aside from money saving, the real reason that most boat owners become adept at doing everything themselves is that we just can't afford the time spent waiting around for other people... By the end of this process I will have a learned a lot that I won't be asking other people for again...

 

[Talulah]

I did. that's two weekends in a row that he said he was working and would come and see us, but hasn't. Too busy I guess!

Was talking to Karen and Patrick at the weekend and we reckon that, aside from money saving, the real reason that most boat owners become adept at doing everything themselves is that we just can't afford the time spent waiting around for other people... By the end of this process I will have a learned a lot that I won't be asking other people for again...

You've listed reasons one and two. Reason three is quality.
Some tradesman are very skilled and excellent. Others know all about short cuts.
However, with DIY - experience can be a very expensive teacher.

 

[winsbury]

fourth reason: spend time at the boat sailing/enjoying it rather than fixing it.

That said, was horrified at £200+ bill to remove and refit cap shrouds that I could have done in less than an hour but for some reason took nearly 4 hours for a pro.

 

[ianfr]

Lisa

You might find this of use if you going the DIY route http://www.sailspar.co.uk/images/originalrollerreefingmanual.pdf

This one gives you splicing instructions http://www.sailspar.co.uk/images/splicinginstructions.pdf

Regards

Ian

p.s. not done it in anger yet, but I did do a practice one a couple of times with some odd lengths, without too many problems.

 

[ChattingLil]

thanks. I can do an double braid eye splice but haven't tried end to end yet. Yes will practice first!! Flipping expensive mistake to make on 24 metres of rope.

(however, we've got more pressing things to worry about at the moment - probably due another thread soon...)

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have continuous furling lines for the headsails which I am about to replace. The lines each feed through 3 blocks along the coachroof and then back to blocks behind the cockpit. When I rig them, how much slack should I put in? Advice gratefully received as ever.

I have continuous line reefing with about 1m of the doubled line spare. It gets cleated and then loosely knotted over the guardrail to keep the slack out of the way.

 

[ChattingLil]

I have continuous line reefing with about 1m of the doubled line spare. It gets cleated and then loosely knotted over the guardrail to keep the slack out of the way.

thanks!