How do you fill a remote greaser?

Burnham Bob

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Silly question but I have a brass remote greaser and a fill lasts for ages. So much so that I only filled it when I bought the boat and still had a lot to learn about the kit fitted. Only experience of a greaser before was the one with a cap that you filled - easy and simple.

My greaser is the brass body type with a tap handle to screw in at one end. I'm away from the boat at the moment so can't have a look - I'm just hoping that forumites can prepare me for the job ahead!

The breaser is in a cockpit locker and to get at it is a pain - I have to climb inside. Last time I unscrewed the tap end and filed the greaser body in situ - difficult and messy and involved pushing grease in with a lollipop stick. Can't be right. Do the experts agree that the body of the greaser should come off and make it easier to fill from the tub of grease? Assuming of course that the plastic washer with the hole in doesn't capsize when I try to press down the greaser body!
 
You should be able to unscrew the top.

I buy the grease in a tub with an "inner lid" with a hole in it and it is a matter of inverting the tub and pushing down. All very clean.
 
Yes, the body screws off the base. You then put it in the tub of grease with the disc thingy in place, push down so that the grease extrudes through the disc hole and unscrew the handle, thus drawing the grease into the body. Reattach the body and screw the handle down as necessary. I find it still has the potential to get messy!
 
My greaser is the brass body type with a tap handle to screw in at one end. I'm away from the boat at the moment so can't have a look - I'm just hoping that forumites can prepare me for the job ahead!

The breaser is in a cockpit locker and to get at it is a pain - I have to climb inside.

All the right advice, but as you have a remote greaser, why not extend the hose and move it to somewhere more convenient? Surely that's the point of it being remote... :)

Mine is in the top of the engine battery box near the battery switches and engine seacock, so easy to remember when you're leaving the boat to put a turn on the greaser - and it's about 6' away from the stern gland
 
It may be possible to improve the existing greaser so that it performs just like a well built grease gun. If the body does indeed unscrew from the base, then it should be possible to insert a floating disk so that you unscrew the tap handle, retracting the plunger without the disk going up with it. Then the loading platform in the grease can will be able to fill the body without trapping air or having to maintain pressure whilst winding the handle back.

My mate had one on which the body was brazed to the base - it took a lot of patience and the same lollipop stick to even partially fill it. We often though about mounting a grease nipple on the end of the feed line and simply applying a grease gun to it when required!

Rob.
 
The same as my boat. Unscrew the tap to its starting position, take off the top, invert container of grease with its little plastic ring still inside and then simple push it on the top. Then reattach tap and start screwing until resistance. When I did mine there was no mess and no problems with air. Move the greaser to a good location otherwise there really is no point to it.
 
thanks aquaplane - that looks exactly like mine. obviously these 'vintage' versions are a little different to the newer ones so your picture and the assurance that the barrel screws off at the base was most welcome
 
Another thing, I thought mine was broken when the piston stayed where it was when I unscrewed the plunger.

One of the replies has got me thinking that I shouldn't have pushed the piston up but let the new grease do it as I filled the barrel.

I'll try to remember that when I have to re fill it again in a couple of years.
 
Yep, Ikea cutlery holders.

Thanks, will check them out.
Teak mobile and tablet holders (plus lots more teak accessories) from KJ Howells in Poole.
Thanks also, Tranona, but I already knew about those and many others. Problem is I want to fit the charge bases for my handheld VHF and also the radio-linked handset for my RO4800 into (separate) holders and these bases measure around 65mm x 85mm which is bigger than the suppliers typically quote.

It's obviously not beyond the wit of man to source some 100mm x 8mm PAR teak and make a couple up, it just seems to be beyond the wit of me :)

Boo2
 
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