How do I get an engine ready?

[Colvic Watson]

I'm buying a new (old) boat with a 10 HP mid 1990's Yanmar diesel. I'm completely new to diesels and what concerns me is that the boat has been laid up for the last 18 months. I know about condensation in the tank and will drain the tank; but what about other factors like impellers, bacteria, cooling systems etc and what do I use to clean and flush the tank and pipelines? The engine had a proper service 12 months ago, but what do I need to do now to get it ready for action?

Thanks for your help.

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[Evadne]

Post-layup routine:

1) Check the oil. If clear, then I'd leave it alone. Otherwise give her an oil and filter change after (6) below has warmed up the oil.
2) I always scratch the date of the service on the oil filter, in case I forget to change it next time.
3) Check the anode, its behind the bolted-on plate on the port side of the engine block.
4) Remove the impeller plate and make sure the impeller is fairly new and that the brass boss hasn't parted from the rubber vanes.
5) Check all the filters in the fuel line and drain where necessary
6) If ashore, then if its possible, remove the pipe from the raw water intake, dip it into a bucket of fesh clean water and start her up. Make sure water is ejected from the exhaust after a few minutes.

What to do with the cooling depends on whether she's directly or indirectly cooled.

If you're worried about bugs, then draining and cleaning the tank is a good step, also replace all filter elements. To clear the pipes, I blow back through them into the tank.
Re. Biocides and enzymes, I've just started using Soltron and it seems to do the job a lot better than the previous ones.
Hope this helps.

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[BlueChip]

As the engine has been standing so long, there will be very little if any oil on bearing surfaces. When the engine starts and before the oil has a chance to circulate is when the damage occurs

When you first start your engine spin it over for 15 seconds or so with the decompression levers lifted or stop button pressed, that way the oil will get circulated and everything nicely lubricated before there is any load on the engine

Its a good idea to do this as well at the start of each season after winter layup

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[steve28]

Just to add to the other posts, the anode is on the stbd side above the starter if the engine is a yanmar 1gm10 or 1gm.
I would change the impeller anyway if its been sat there in a fixed position for that long. They tend to crack at the base of the lobes where its forced over the cam.
Also make sure the water is off when cranking over for any long period of time.


steve


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[Evadne]

I didn't realise they were that different, it's on the port side on the 1GM7, more-or-less under the injector. Assuming the propeller is to the rear...

Anyway, if you want a manual they are available online for free or a more advanced one for a tenner from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/> workshopmanuals .

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[paulburton44]

my anode is on the port side above the starter ????????1gm10

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[LadyInBed]

So was mine!

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[andy_wilson]

If the tank is full (as it should be) I wouldn't worry too much about the diesel. If it isn't, see if the tank has a sump and drain point and just draw some off to see if it has water in it. If so draw off all the water. Similarly check water searator.

Check for previous lay-up or service documentation from 12 months ago. There may be a dated service document advising lay-up action taken, with impeller and gasket clipped to in a bag!

Check the impeller, bend every vane right over both ways to check for cracks at the roots. Replace if at all suspect.

Check the anode is at least 50% remaining.

Check alternator / pump belt is tight, they are often released for lay-up.

Thorough visual inspection of externals for leaks, loose wires etc.

Check oil level and colour, also gearbox. Check coolant if indirect. Drain and replace with anti-freeze mix if excessivly rusty.

Rotate propshaft by hand whilst out of gear to ensure not binding badly or seized. Inspect stern gland arrangement. If newly afloat, ensure water lubrication is present if applicable.

If ashore, provide bucket and pick-up hose to cooling water inlet. Check where expelled exhaust and water will end up.

Check props are firm and advise yard you wish to start engine whilst ashore. They may well go round with a hammer before and after.

Check the cold start routine, but before starting turn over with decompressors for 5-10 seconds / until oil pressure light goes out.

Then start her up. Watch and listen carefully for a couple of minutes and check water output from exhaust.

Warm up under load if afloat, try both gears, then into reverse about 1/2 revs, say 1500-2000.

Run for at least 20 mins to ensure thoroughly warmed before stopping, 30 mins or so if on land.

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