How difficult to DIY teak decking

[ChattingLil]

not for me, but for a friend whose boat builder has run out of time to finish a job.

The surface is prepared, the decking is all cut to length. How difficult would it be for novices to complete the job to an acceptable standard?

Having searched ybw archive I think that they need to use sikaflex 298 to stick the wood down and use weights and spreaders to ensure each plank is stuck all the way along. Then simply caulk followed by a sanding to get a nice finish.

are we over simplifying it? Is it a nightmare in the making and should they just find another person to finish it off.?

 

[Tranona]

It really depends on exactly how the deck is constructed. Surprised that all the planks are cut to size as that is usually done as they are laid as neat fitting is the key to getting it to look right. It is possible to DIY - there was a good account in PBO a couple of years ago of a DIY deck on a Rival. However, hard work (just finished one myself - never again!). Clamps and weights needed, but the actual sticking down is relatively easy with either SABA or Sikaflex adhesive. Caulking (with the caulking adhesive) is the real killer in time, effort and discomfort.

Probably better to try and find a freelance shipwright to do the job.

 

[burgundyben]

If the planks are laid straight then its easy peasey.

If the planks are laid swept with the curve of the deck then its a little more tricky.

 

[KellysEye]

The previous owner of our boat was shipwright who specialised in teak decks. What he did was glue Dutch marine ply to the deck, wait for it to dry, then put glue on the ply and screw the deck to the ply. Wait for it dry and remove the screws and plug them. When putting the Sikaflex along the gaps on the deck make sure you tape each side.

 

[burgundyben]

When putting the Sikaflex along the gaps on the deck make sure you tape each side.

Not sure that is correct, the tape should be on the bottom of the gap.

 

[Sandy Bottom]

The previous owner of our boat was shipwright who specialised in teak decks. What he did was glue Dutch marine ply to the deck, wait for it to dry, then put glue on the ply and screw the deck to the ply. Wait for it dry and remove the screws and plug them. When putting the Sikaflex along the gaps on the deck make sure you tape each side.

No, as Burgundyben says, tape on the bottom (bond breaker), the sides should be taller than the bottom is wide, and primer MUST be used :encouragement:

 

[pmagowan]

Buy your friend a power caulking tool. His hand tendons will thank you for it.

 

[dedwards]

The previous owner of our boat was shipwright who specialised in teak decks. What he did was glue Dutch marine ply to the deck, wait for it to dry, then put glue on the ply and screw the deck to the ply. Wait for it dry and remove the screws and plug them. When putting the Sikaflex along the gaps on the deck make sure you tape each side.

I always wondered why people use a ply base and don't just glue the teak strips directly onto the grp...

 

[rob2]

Some do. It's rather like the difference between building a strip canoe with or without staples. If you're gluing direct to the GRP, then yuo need a far more elaborate selection of wedges and weights. I believe when going onto a GRP substrate, some builders prefer to bed onto epoxy for a more permanent bond.

Rob.

 

[KellysEye]

>No, as Burgundyben says, tape on the bottom (bond breaker), the sides should be taller than the bottom is wide, and primer MUST be used

OK thanks.

 

[ChattingLil]

>No, as Burgundyben says, tape on the bottom (bond breaker), the sides should be taller than the bottom is wide, and primer MUST be used

OK thanks.

I'm sorry, I really don't understand what you mean. Can you help explain? I can imagine putting tape along the tops of the planks to avoid the caulking smearing across the tops of the planks, but I don't understand what it meant by tape on the bottom and the sides being taller. I can't imagine it!

 

[pmagowan]

I'm sorry, I really don't understand what you mean. Can you help explain? I can imagine putting tape along the tops of the planks to avoid the caulking smearing across the tops of the planks, but I don't understand what it meant by tape on the bottom and the sides being taller. I can't imagine it!

There is very thin tape that goes in the bottom of the groove between planks. This prevents the caulk sticking here and allows it to expand and contract with the wood. The depth of the groove should be enough to allow a good adhesion and it should be primed. Otherwise when the wood changes shape the caulk will just tear off and let water in. You can, as you say, use temporary tape when caulking to aid in removal of excess caulk. Many people no longer use this method, opting instead to create a ridge of caulk, bubbling up higher than required. If left to harden the excess can be removed with a sharpe knife. Others just use a badass sander to remove excess caulking after it has been spread out.

|_|\\\\\\\\|_|\\\\\
^

The tape goes where the arrow is

p.s. Here is a better picture;

View attachment 52684

 

[Sandy Bottom]

I'm sorry, I really don't understand what you mean. Can you help explain? I can imagine putting tape along the tops of the planks to avoid the caulking smearing across the tops of the planks, but I don't understand what it meant by tape on the bottom and the sides being taller. I can't imagine it!

Imagine holding a rubber/eraser between your left and right thumbs and that the rubber is the deck caulking. If you repeatedly squeeze the rubber so that it bends up and down that is similar to the action of the deck caulking due to variations in heat or flexing of the deck. You want the vertical sides of the caulking to remain adhered to the wood so that the deck remains watertight. If the base of the caulking (or the bottom surface of the rubber) had greater adhesion limits than the sides then the sides would give way first (not good) - so you deliberately prevent the base from bonding with a tape (a bit like narrow 'banda' tape) that does not adhere to the base - a 'bond breaker tape'. So the caulking (rubber) moves up and down staying bonded to the sides because the bottom base does not compete with it for adhesion. For the same reason, if the sides are taller than the base is wide, they will have the greater adhesive force and will stay intact :encouragement:

 

[ChattingLil]

aha! I geddit now! thanks for the explanations.

 

[Tranona]

You can, as you say, use temporary tape when caulking to aid in removal of excess caulk. Many people no longer use this method, opting instead to create a ridge of caulk, bubbling up higher than required. If left to harden the excess can be removed with a sharpe knife. Others just use a badass sander to remove excess caulking after it has been spread out.

I tried both methods - over caulking initially, but found the caulk (Saba) very difficult to trim cleanly, so changed to masking either side, caulking then levelling with a spatula and peeling the tape immediately. Seems long winded and it can get a bit exciting when you have a longstrip of tape with caulking on it and the wind gets up - but results in neater better filled seams with minimal levelling and sanding.