How can I prevent a Scaled Toilet

[vyv_cox]

Stomach acid is hydrochloric acid - this may be a little too concentrated to want to have onboard, but carefully diluted it would do the trick. Hopefully a chemist will be along shortly to advise.

Fuming hydrochloric acid might be pushing things a bit too far. Plenty of other possibilities, e.g. Hydrochloric Acid 10% Industrial Brick Cleaner/Patio Cleaner 5L - *HIGH QUALITY* | eBay Delivered to your door.

Hydrochloric acid treatment is best carried out on a regular basis, for example fortnightly for a liveaboard, rather than trying to fix a blockage.

 

[duncan99210]

Suitable acid is often available in supermarkets in Europe, in the household cleaning section. Aqua fuerte is its name in Spain, other variations in France and Italy. Look at the info on the label and you should come across HCl xx% somewhere. Cheap and an effective cleaner: I don’t use it for toilet cleaning, relying mainly on lots of flushing and hose replacements.

 

[vyv_cox]

Suitable acid is often available in supermarkets in Europe, in the household cleaning section. Aqua fuerte is its name in Spain, other variations in France and Italy. Look at the info on the label and you should come across HCl xx% somewhere. Cheap and an effective cleaner: I don’t use it for toilet cleaning, relying mainly on lots of flushing and hose replacements.

This is the Greek version. Almost all supermarkets stock it

we bought a version of it in Spain at Mercadona supermarkets but in a black bottle.

 

[jwilson]

Brick cleaner (hydrochloric acid) works wonders on scale in ceramic pans and the plastic under-bowl base parts of Jabscos. It probably helps outlet pipes too but I just buy another 2 metres of pipe every few years to be confident the whole pipe is clear.

 

[VicS]

Vic, what is the name of that reaction process? I remember it was posted here many years ago but I cannot remember the name.

You stumped me for a moment but I think you will find it is called ammonification.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Stomach acid is hydrochloric acid - this may be a little too concentrated to want to have onboard, but carefully diluted it would do the trick. Hopefully a chemist will be along shortly to advise.

VicS is a chemist

 

[vyv_cox]

You stumped me for a moment but I think you will find it is called ammonification.

Thanks Vic. That isn't the name I (don't) remember, maybe a more generic term for the type of reaction? I think it began with R, but not 100% certain.

 

[Clancy Moped]

Ahem. Fresh water flush.

Stops the smell to boot.

 

[vyv_cox]

Fresh water flush.

Only if there is a dedicated tank for it, which would require the boat to be relatively large. Any attempt to use the contents of the domestic water tank would be very dangerous. No diverter or check valve could be relied upon to be safe.

 

[VicS]

Thanks Vic. That isn't the name I (don't) remember, maybe a more generic term for the type of reaction? I think it began with R, but not 100% certain.

Reduction ???

There are several changes in oxidation state of the nitrogen atom as you go round the nitrogen cycle between -3 in ammonia and ammonium compounds and +3 in nitrates. but I don't think the production of ammonia from animal waste actually involves a change of oxidation state

 

[Sharky34]

Well I have a plan today. The diverter valve is choked with scale so I am going to remove 4 lumps and drop each one into a glass and add respectively harpic, white vinegar, de-scaler and normal vinegar. I can't get brick cleaner as only supermarkets are open here and we can see what effect they have.
Luckily the scale is quite soft so I have managed to clear them but will ned to try and look inside the holding tank. Unfortunately the marina now lock the toilet block between 9pm and 8.30am so the loo may be an essential bit of kit. Not sure I am up to using a poo bag again ;-(

Coca Cola works well as a descaler, followed by a spraying with WD40 (according to some advert of theirs).

 

[Leighb]

We never had a problem in 10 years with our last boat. Outlet pipe was 2metres so we always pumped at least 16 strokes or more if the content was solid! We added some proprietary cleaner from Jabsco every night and on leaving the boat.. We had all the pipe work replaced with a new toilet after the first season. Our present boat when we first bought it the pan was very scaled and stained, this came off perfectly with dilute brick cleaner. This has less than a metre outlet which goes straight down, toilet above t he waterline, we use the same regime, but with less pumping and so far no problems.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Only if there is a dedicated tank for it, which would require the boat to be relatively large. Any attempt to use the contents of the domestic water tank would be very dangerous. No diverter or check valve could be relied upon to be safe.

Um. Is that right? That's a worry that you mention this, given your pedigree as an advisor. In a failure scenario, what would be dangerous in particular? Obviously you don't want sewage in the water tank but I can't see how that would happen, but I don't know.

My current and previous boats both have FW flush and use the domestic water tanks for the supply. And just about every mobo built today over about 35' ish will have FW flush from the domestic tank. So maybe the tech has moved on?

 

[Iliade]

VicS is a chemist

I knew ;0)

 

[jwilson]

I would be deeply suspicious about bacterial contamination if a fresh water tank was plumbed into a typical Jabsco-type marine toilet inlet. However there are (expensive) marine toilets designed to run with freshwater: eg some vacuum toilets that also use very little water compared to traditional pump types.

 

[Iliade]

Um. Is that right? That's a worry that you mention this, given your pedigree as an advisor. In a failure scenario, what would be dangerous in particular? Obviously you don't want sewage in the water tank but I can't see how that would happen, but I don't know.

My current and previous boats both have FW flush and use the domestic water tanks for the supply. And just about every mobo built today over about 35' ish will have FW flush from the domestic tank. So maybe the tech has moved on?

Likewise most caravans and motorhomes, but they use very different toilets with no connection between the black water and fresh other than the bowl itself and if black water was flowing up the bowl and into the freshwater tanks I fear you may have more serious things to fret about. [must learn to type faster]

 

[Sticky Fingers]

I would be deeply suspicious about bacterial contamination if a fresh water tank was plumbed into a typical Jabsco-type marine toilet inlet. However there are (expensive) marine toilets designed to run with freshwater: eg some vacuum toilets that also use very little water compared to traditional pump types.

Ah yes. Both my boats had / have electric WCs designed for FW flush.

 

[Sharky34]

I would be deeply suspicious about bacterial contamination if a fresh water tank was plumbed into a typical Jabsco-type marine toilet inlet. However there are (expensive) marine toilets designed to run with freshwater: eg some vacuum toilets that also use very little water compared to traditional pump types.

I remember one having an old fashioned break tank, at high level like old lav, complete with chain & gravilty fed flush. A delight to use on a dutch boat.

 

[RJJ]

I do an occasional freshwater flush using the boat's freshwater tanks. Shower attachment or dock hose directed into the bowl; flush.

Seems to work?. I am not flushing the seawater intake, but if I understand correctly from the chemistry lesson above (thanks) that's not the problem.

 

[PatrickB02]

Here is a suggestion from a few years ago (on this forum):

"Someone here recommended putting urinal tabs or cistern blocks in the inlet system. I fitted a jasco strainer, pulled out the gauze and stuck in a blue tablet for a cistern. Loo hasn't smelt since and it has cleaned out the lime scale. Highly recommended."

I haven't tried it personally, but it is on my jobs list.