How can I get rid of surface scratches on blue part of hull?

[Sulley]

Can anyone advise the best way to get rid of surface scratches. I have a 2005 Bayliner 285 and have some hazy scratches on the blue part of the hull. It was caused by some mud (which must have had grit in) on the fenders which then scratched the blue area. The boat was immaculate when I brought it earlier this year and I have polished the white areas but it's let down by this!

Can I do it myself, if so how? Or do I need to call in the professionals.

I have an electric buffer and I have also learnt to always learnt to check and clean my fenders now!!

Here's a picture of the boat so you can see what I mean about the blue part of the hull. I will also take a picture of the damaged area when I visit the boat at the weekend if it helps!

Thanks for any advice, I am really anoye with myself for causing the damage!

 

[Sundowner Portofino]

Hi there

It depends how deep they are, but if just surface hairline scratches and not actually gouged to deep into the gel coat you can fix the issue with your electric polisher.

My personal preferance which I have used in the past on my boat is a cutting compund called G3 and G6.

Use G3 first, then G6, then some form of polish and the wash, for polish and wash I like McGuires but again this all just personel.

The most importan thing with G3 and G6 though is to keep the area wet, I use a garden spay gun, if you don't then the combination of electric polisher and compound can burn the hull leaving a nasty mark.

Hope that helps a little, if you are nervous and want to ensure it is done well might be worth getting someone to do it. My hull is 22 years old so I mind less about the odd blemish, but for you at 2005 it might be worth the precaution. Kind of depends how handy you are.

Good luck

 

[gjgm]

Sailing Today has a review of products...3M and farecla marine did well, and I think 3M might have technique guides on their website.
Best approach is to use as mild an abrasive as you can, and see how it goes. If nothing happens, try a slightly coarser grade.
Bear in mind the gel might be pretty thin, so for gawd's sake dont go through it!
Havnt yet tried this myself, but car body bod suggested trying grit 2000/2500. You can get a few sheets off ebay for about £5.

 

[MrB]

You can find everything you need to know here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php Great advice on removing swirls etc. Before you go the sand paper route, try a clay bar first. You can get them in Halfords and are very good but it must stay wet, i think Halfords do a meguiar's one that comes with the clay bar and a bottle of quick detail spray.

Unless you are proficient with a polishing machine stay away from it and stay away from single speed cheap ones because if you use it to fast and it gets hot you will ruin your finish in seconds. The best ones are Porter Cable and Makita, well balanced and variable speeds. Practice on something not important like a neighbor's car first..lol. [joke]

 

[Sulley]

Thanks for the replies! I have a 240v one speed cheapo electric polisher from Halfords which seems to work well. However I can also always be persuaded to buy more things for the boat. Just don't tell the other half!

I'll have a read on the links as well. I think I'll try the cutting compund before resorting to sand paper. If it was the white gelcoat I wouldn't be so cautious I think it's just because it's blue. As gjgm said don't go through it which is why I'm being careful. I know it's a Bayliner but it took a lot of my hard earnt pennies to buy her!

I did try some car cutting compound on it which took a bit off but I only did it by hand.

My neighbour has a nice new car. I'm sure they won't mind me having a try

 

[MrB]

Thanks for the replies! I have a 240v one speed cheapo electric polisher from Halfords which seems to work well. However I can also always be persuaded to buy more things for the boat. Just don't tell the other half!

I'll have a read on the links as well. I think I'll try the cutting compund before resorting to sand paper. If it was the white gelcoat I wouldn't be so cautious I think it's just because it's blue. As gjgm said don't go through it which is why I'm being careful. I know it's a Bayliner but it took a lot of my hard earnt pennies to buy her!

I did try some car cutting compound on it which took a bit off but I only did it by hand.

My neighbour has a nice new car. I'm sure they won't mind me having a try

A clay bar and fine detailing spray is is less abrasive than cutting compound, i would try that first if the scratches are more like swirl marks. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_804735_categoryId_165682_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PDPz1

 

[Sulley]

I'll try the softly, softly approach. I will get some clay for this weekend and see how we get on.

I'll report back on the outcome, plus some pictures.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[Warpa]

A clay bar and fine detailing spray is is less abrasive than cutting compound, i would try that first if the scratches are more like swirl marks. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_804735_categoryId_165682_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PDPz1

A clay bar will only remove surface contaminants, thats what its designed for. On a side not if you buy a clay bar buy built hamber as you lube it with water...cheaper than using detailing spray.

As for the cheapo machine you have OP, use it as a door stop, it wont generate any where near enough heat to break down the compounds of the polish to actually work, a dual action polisher can be bought for under £100, and with the advances in todays pads they are on the verge of taking over orbital as they can now cut as quickly and are almost idiot proof to avoid burning the paint.

If you run your fingernail over the scratch then its probably too deep to polish out, but having said that a mirror finished hull tends to hide any small blemish.

I use the meguiars marine range on mine and others boats along with menzerna auto range along with a large selection of pads to get the mirror finish.

 

[gjgm]

You can find everything you need to know here http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php Great advice on removing swirls etc. Before you go the sand paper route, try a clay bar first. You can get them in Halfords and are very good but it must stay wet, i think Halfords do a meguiar's one that comes with the clay bar and a bottle of quick detail spray.

Unless you are proficient with a polishing machine stay away from it and stay away from single speed cheap ones because if you use it to fast and it gets hot you will ruin your finish in seconds. The best ones are Porter Cable and Makita, well balanced and variable speeds. Practice on something not important like a neighbor's car first..lol. [joke]

Prepared to be corrected, but I think gel is alot tougher than modern car paints.Silverline do a polisher for about 50 quid.. looks like an angle grinder-its a bit heavy, but perectly usable unless you have a 40ft +flybridge.
A decent polish, or use some 3M gelcoat restorer very lightly first.
Just accept that blue gel shows scratches;fact of life. Plenty of gentle work to improve things, and a deep scratch is repairable, but cut back through a large area and it will be thousands to sort out .

 

[Warpa]

Not so much tougher but deeper, gel coat is measured in mm, clearcoat in microns

 

[Sulley]

Looks like I need a new electric polisher for a start!

To save buying loads of things I don't need I'm going to have a look at the scratches again when I am at the boat on the weekend. I'll have a close look at them to see how deep they really are take some pictures and report back.

Thanks for all the advice so far, there's SO many products out there I appreciate people taking the time to offer advice.

@ Warpa, wow that is some some shine on that Maxum!

 

[Marine Reflections]

Nice one Warpa

Yep, spot on with the clay, it's for pulling 'above surface' contaminates off/out, things that have stuck to the surface, not for anything abrasive.

Once forensic clean..
Just by hand..
3m Trizact 3000 disc on a block (or and just normal paper of same grade) bowl of water with some soap in would be my first suggestion if you are to diy, far safer than polishing to remove as you are profiling in a far more uniformed manner.

A polishing sponge / mop alone will also polish the base of any scratches deepening the correction, at least with fine and a block you will reach the base without increasing the base.

A lot easier with the correct tools and products but the main bits are in there.
Follow that up with polishing, at that stage even the door stop may work

As Warpa suggests, you get to play around with the microns but just don't play around with the mm.

 

[gjgm]

out of interest, what sort of "grit" rating is 3G?

 

[Warpa]

out of interest, what sort of "grit" rating is 3G?

3G is mobile intrawebnet 3M make pads for buffing machines, G3 is a cutting compound made by farecla.

For a no nonsence buff it yourself bunch of goodies this will do you.

A bit more expensive than others that look identical, but trust me it doesnt vibrate half as bad.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis.../das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher/prod_673.html

Bets microfibers on the market imo

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/microfibre-cloths/eurow-shag-pile-double-density-towels/prod_436.html

Your polish will give the average joe a fantastic finish, meguiars recommend this pad with it.

http://www.passionauto.co.uk/products/meguiars-mirror-glaze-7-inch-foam-cutting-pad.html?gshopping

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/318/Heavy-Duty-Oxidation-Remover/

Wax is all down to choice, this Megs stuff is ok, well it has all the right ingredients for a good wax, i use this or my Collinite waxes.

http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/327/BoatRV-Pure-Wax/

Total i think is under £200

The pic i showed of my boat was a mid season quick buff, it comes up ok for a 14 year old boat. Ill show you a pic of the real finish to show it needs a glaze to finally finish it to a mirror shine. As i had let it get into a bad state i used a wool pad for speed, i need to go over it with a softer pad and will probably use menzernas final finish polish.

As you can see its far from perfect.

 

[Marine Reflections]

out of interest, what sort of "grit" rating is 3G?

If you do mean G3 or any compound and what size grit for comparison are the particles inside?

It's a bit hard to say as most compounds particle size or 'grit size' is diminishing, in other words the particles reduce as you work them, so it may start course then medium to fine as it is worked, plus the particles would not be uniform in size like the paper.

The pad that is used to work the product plays a huge part in how those particles are used.
So for example a hard foam pad will have a more aggressive effect than a soft foam pad but still using the same product and grit rating.

The 'grit rating' for compounds and polishes are really just in the plain old course, medium and fine.

 

[Marine Reflections]

Warpa you have tons to get through yet! stop tickling it

Look at the darker gel where the pinstripe has been, that's a lot closer to original gel colour, get it back to here with the paper, then get the polisher out.

Be brave

 

[Galia]

Its always scary when you see wet 'n' dry used for the first on your paintwork. When a friend took a scratch out of the side of my Saab he said the look on my face nearly made it worth doing for free !!!!!

 

[Warpa]

Warpa you have tons to get through yet! stop tickling it

Look at the darker gel where the pinstripe has been, that's a lot closer to original gel colour, get it back to here with the paper, then get the polisher out.

Be brave

I knew the pinstripes would leave a mark, the 'MAXUM' decals are being removed as i have new decals being made to bring it up to date. Hense the removal of all the other pinstripes bar the one on the hull. Some will be replaced, others left.

So what grit would you recomend then? When i do it ill tape of a section and do some before and afters. Im not too worried about taking a bit of scratch to a boat, wet sanding a car ill leave to the experts, although i did to a custom grill on my truck

 

[Marine Reflections]

Liking before and after pics promise

Was the pinstripe original?

The gel under the pinstripe should be 'mint' in original colour, but also higher where it has been covered, flatting along this line first will give you the most feedback as you can see the colour change of surrounding area well, you'll know what I mean when you widen the rich colour stripe.

Just my opinion but I rarely like the look of them when it comes to putting them back on, I like the lines of the boat better. Glad the decals are coming off, be able to get all round there now

I'd be using the ole DA so I go finer on the starting grades but use what you have for fine.

3000 is gentle all day long, 3m are the most uniform without a shadow, but with yours you may be there some time.
1500 perhaps wet soaked on a block if you can bring 1500 back from the dead, which I am sure you can.
Go with what you are comfy with, looks great already by the way but I see it that pinstripe red and minted even further

Illness

 

[pathfinderstu]

getting all very testical here but am sure very sound advice.

just out of interest has anyone ever tried car colour restorer polish for the metioned type problem ?