nimbusgb
Well-Known Member
a little bigger than a number 4 and somewhat smaller than a number 2?
Baboom!
Baboom!
How big is a Number 3 Genoa ?
- Thread starter BlueSkyNick
- Start date
sailor211
Well-Known Member
How do you reef it, actually? I would love to have a look if you are coming down in the near future.
You have one major benefit over me in that you dear lady is happy, or at least willing, to sail in those conditions - mine would insist on being surrounded by proper walls and a roof !!!
Reefing the no 3 is done by having a tack and clew cringe higher up, so you can lower the sail, fix the tack and sheet, and not use the lower section. Done a lot on hanked on sails which is what my no 3 is. Previous boat had a no 3 on the reefing /furling gear, that was a pain to swap.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
That, is a Blast Reacher
sailor211
Well-Known Member
No mine is for beating, shallow draft forward, tight sheeting angle, not for reaching, I use the high cut jib for reaching, wind 50 degrees or more from the bow.
alant
Well-Known Member
Useful explaination here -
http://www.oceannavigator.com/November-December-2011/A-voyaging-sail-inventory/
Clive
Well-Known Member
General rule is based on "J"
No. 1 150% to 135%
No. 2 130% to 110%
No. 3 110% to 95%
No. 4 95% to 80%
On my X-302, I mostly use a high cut No.3 105%, Just comes back to the shrouds, great for cruising particular as I do have a good size main..
I have a 145% No.1 both racing and cruising but have stoppedusing both and have switched to the No.3
I also have a No.4, but have only used it a few times, more a get me home sail.
No. 1 150% to 135%
No. 2 130% to 110%
No. 3 110% to 95%
No. 4 95% to 80%
On my X-302, I mostly use a high cut No.3 105%, Just comes back to the shrouds, great for cruising particular as I do have a good size main..
I have a 145% No.1 both racing and cruising but have stoppedusing both and have switched to the No.3
I also have a No.4, but have only used it a few times, more a get me home sail.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
My #3 (as marked on the bag) is 100% of the foretriangle, deck-hugger all in front of the mast - also known as a blade jib and as a Solent.
It allows far smaller tacking angles, is great up to about Bf 4/5, allows me to lash the helm and sail to windward without autopilot and to easily heave-to.
It has one major flaw - it's foot is on the stemhead fitting, you can't anchor or put it on the roller-reefing. As a result for windward work in any wind I use the 65% yankee jib which does go on the roller reefing and is far superior to the storm jib in really heavy weather as it can be rolled even smaller than the storm jib.
It allows far smaller tacking angles, is great up to about Bf 4/5, allows me to lash the helm and sail to windward without autopilot and to easily heave-to.
It has one major flaw - it's foot is on the stemhead fitting, you can't anchor or put it on the roller-reefing. As a result for windward work in any wind I use the 65% yankee jib which does go on the roller reefing and is far superior to the storm jib in really heavy weather as it can be rolled even smaller than the storm jib.
bedouin
Well-Known Member
So why is that a #3 Genoa not a #1 Jib?
sailor211
Well-Known Member
A jib has a high clew and angled foot genoa has foot parallel ish to the deck thus low clew.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
A Jib is no longer in the foot than the mast
A genoa goes past the mast (ie overlaps)
The height of the clew has nothing to do with it unless the sail is a Yankee
Keen_Ed
Well-Known Member
rwoofer
Well-Known Member
Nick,
I did this on my M44 and went for No 4. jib size hanked on to a removable inner forestay. I found the boat still worked in 20 knots, but could take me up to 40. It was actually the sailmakers recommendation.
I did this on my M44 and went for No 4. jib size hanked on to a removable inner forestay. I found the boat still worked in 20 knots, but could take me up to 40. It was actually the sailmakers recommendation.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Don't ask me - ask Jeremy Robinson.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Not in the case of my #3 genoa. Which also need an entirely different sheeting angle to the overlapping genoas.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
I guess your sailmaker used the wrong sail bag then
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Before suggesting one of the UK's foremost sailmakers was in error, perhaps you could give an independent printed authority to justify your opinion?
It is, of course, possible that the term is so loosely applied as to be meaningless.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Pleasure
Genoa (sail)
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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SC70 RETRO's genoa overlaps the main sail and the mast
The genoa or genny was originally referred to as an 'overlapping jib' and later as a Genoa jib, being named after the city of Genoa as explained below. It is a type of large jib or staysail that overlaps the main sail, sometimes eliminating it. It is used on single-masted sloops and twin-masted boats such as yawls and ketches. Its larger surface area increases the speed of the craft in light to moderate winds; in high wind conditions a smaller jib is usually substituted, and downwind a spinnaker may be used. The feature that distinguishes a genoa from a working jib is that the former extends past the mast, overlapping the mainsail when viewed from the side.[1]
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Obviously the entry is in need of amendment - if you look here - http://www.secondwindsails.com/measurement.php
you will find that in sailmakers' terms a #3 genoa is 115% of the foretriangle area.
As has already been stated in the thread at least once.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Quite so the sail "Overlaps" by 15% dunnit Gov
Keen_Ed
Well-Known Member
Generally not, actually. Jibs & genoas are measured on the luff perpendicular, expressed as a percentage of J. A non overlapping jib will have an LP > 100% of J. 115% is pretty normal number for a non-overlapping jib with a low clew. The number will be lower for a yankee or jib top.
