"Hookah" Air Breathing Hose

No need for a hookah or any other breathing system for hull cleaning. Just put your scraper or scrub pad on an eight foot pole and work from the surface using regular snorkel gear. No diving is required. I use a flexible stainless steel scraper and despite being 70 can clean a 44 ft monohull in an hour.
 
TQA said:
No need for a hookah or any other breathing system for hull cleaning. Just put your scraper or scrub pad on an eight foot pole and work from the surface using regular snorkel gear. No diving is required. I use a flexible stainless steel scraper and despite being 70 can clean a 44 ft monohull in an hour.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
In the past I too have managed with fins, mask and a snorkel for cleaning but for anode changing and prop service I needed the dive cylinder (which I no longer have).
 
Dave100456 said:
Roger, you are indeed quite correct.
One point I'm not certain on is the suitability of a standard second stage regulator when used with surface air compressor. Some Hookah suppliers state that the regulator must be a specific Hookah type whilst I've read accounts of others who have used a standard unmodified reg. Do you know I'm right in thinking that one critical factor is that the supply pressure matches the regulator?
Some Hookah systems use relatively low pressure pumps hence they can only supply to shallower depths whilst others use a 7-8 bar supply which would match std regs.
Have I got this right?
Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...

The correct operation second stage regulator does to an extent depend on the incoming pressure. Most SCUBA first stage out a pressure of about 120 psi where as the output of a hookah oil less compressor is much lower.

I have both a SCUBA second stage reg as well as a Hookah second stage reg so have never tried it. The operation of the second stage also depends on the difference between the depth up dive to an the incoming pressure to the second stage. I do understand some second stage regs can be adjusted but if you are only diving to 2 metres I would try and see and if you have a problem surfacing from 2 meters is no problem.
 
Dave100456 said:
Without wishing to recreate the many threads that there's already been on here and elsewhere about Hookas.

I plan to use the kit to work at a depth of 2 meters. I would use SCUBA to go deeper.

We all have different attitudes to risk. Personally, I believe if you can't comfortably free dive and resurface from 2metres (and beyond) then you shouldn't be in/under the water. Indeed, I subscribe to the school of thought that if you can't swim you're taking too big a risk going out on a boat. Others will have stricter or more relaxed attitudes; we all set our own limits.
Click to expand...

I still think it would end up cheaper buying some second-hand scuba gear. If you get a 15l tank at 200 bar, you have 3000litres. Even working hard you won't be using more than 30l/min. At 2m or so, you will be at 1.2atm. So you are going to have 3000/(1.2*3) or about 80 mins of air. That's plenty of time to scrub the boat bottom, plus you aren't going to be worried about problems of hose-snags, or of your surface pump stopping or pumping exhast-contaminated air to you. Having your surface pump stopping when hookah diving is very unpleasant as it is instant off due to small volume of air in the hose - with scuba you get plenty of warning as your tanks empty. You can safely use scuba gear on your own, but hookah you really need somebody on the surface watching over the pump.
 
Ric said:
I still think it would end up cheaper buying some second-hand scuba gear. If you get a 15l tank at 200 bar, you have 3000litres. Even working hard you won't be using more than 30l/min. At 2m or so, you will be at 1.2atm. So you are going to have 3000/(1.2*3) or about 80 mins of air. That's plenty of time to scrub the boat bottom, plus you aren't going to be worried about problems of hose-snags, or of your surface pump stopping or pumping exhast-contaminated air to you. Having your surface pump stopping when hookah diving is very unpleasant as it is instant off due to small volume of air in the hose - with scuba you get plenty of warning as your tanks empty. You can safely use scuba gear on your own, but hookah you really need somebody on the surface watching over the pump.
Click to expand...

Are you considering tank refills?
 
Dave100456 said:
Thats okay and apology accepted!

You are quite correct, I haven't got the idea of forums yet. I mistakenly thought this area was for the exchange of practical knowledge and tips to do with boating for the good of all. How foolish of me not to know it was the place for public ridicule and stereotyping.

At least I now know I can't strap 50kg of lead round my waist, jump into 100ft deep water with the end of a 101 ft hose in my mouth and expect to breathe happily down there!!
Click to expand...

Progress indeed:encouragement:
 
A simple Hooka kit would just be an oïl free diaphram pump pumping to a mask with a total loss valve. i.e. breath what you need, and the rest bubbles away. No need to have regulaters for very shallow dives, as in hull scrubbing. Bit different if down for pearls or sponges at greater depths.
Forums tend to be a bit critical of peeps who don't go with the flow.... Learning can be a bit uphill.. Chill!
 
Maybe find out what a 'Hookah' is before jumping to conclusions??

Great idea.

I would take a length for sure.

maby said:
Indeed - this has been the subject of several long discussions around here over the years and the consensus has always been that even a very fit and strong man would be hard pressed to stay two metres down breathing through a snorkel for more than a minute or two.
Click to expand...
 
Ric said:
Refills cost €5 at my local dive shop.
Click to expand...

Ric
With all due respect this is not a discussion as to whats best; Hookah or SCUBA and your local dive shop is a long way from where I will be. Filling of cylinders when you're at anchor in remote countries/locations is not as easy as nipping to a local dive shop. Plus I question the quality of many refills I've had in the past, some from remote outfits, occasionally using petrol driven compressors.
Hookah has its place as does SCUBA, there are pros and cons for both. I've chosen to not replace my cylinder and build a Hookah setup.

All I'm trying to do here is not waste hose and buy a longer length than I might need (which is more cost effective) and share the saving with another.
 
Just a few comments here. I had SCUBA tanks for 30 odd years and did use them for servicing the mooring chains. However I never used the SCUBA for cleaning the hull. I find it far easier just with snorkel and mask. Plus it must make your lungs fitter.
It is just too much faff for me to get tank on and swim out to boat (easiest for me) or much more difficult to climb back on the boat with tank etc. I did get to the stage of not using wet suit so no weight belt etc but it is still cumbersome. I am turning 71 yo this month and will be back to snorkelling next season.

The regulator used in SCUBA and I imagine Hookah as said runs at 100 PSI or so perhaps less but must be more than the water pressure. ( 60 psi at 60 ft)
The air comes to a tilt valve which opens with a little sideways pressure. This is attached to a rubber diaphragm about 50mm in diameter. The outer side of this diaphragm is open to sea water the inner side is open to your mouth piece and the air from the tilt valve. There is also a non return valve from the mouth/air cavity to water. So when you breath in you actually suck the diaphragm in just a little, the tilt valve opens and compressed air comes into the cavity. Only at a pressure and sufficient to negate the suction you apply. So you hardly notice the sucking needed. A very simple effective device. The tank pressure for SCUBA can be over 3000psi so a regulator is fitted at the tank top to limit the pressure supply to the second stage (mouth piece reg). If as occasionally happens this does not regulate low enough the second stage tilt valve will leak air continuously. Very annoying but not dangerous.
The interesting thing they don't tell you in SCUBA school is that running out of air is not such a big drama. It happens remarkably gracefully. You find you have to suck a little harder to get your air. After 3 or 4 breaths you might twig to what the problem is. So you start to surface as you come up the pressure required for you to breath becomes less so you find that you can continue breathing almost normally up to the surface. No good of course if you have been deep and need to rise slowly.
Anyway I used to use my tanks down to the last drop for little jobs on mooring in 3 m of water. So while a refill is quite cheap the tanks must be tested after 12 months (or before another refill if over 12months) This part is not so cheap or convenient. So yes a Hookah has advantages and I have used Hookah a bit no problem except for the hose but a lot lighter when climbing out than a tank. As I am now required to have my swing mooring profesionaly serviced every 2 years I have got rid of the tanks. (Well out of test) olewill
 
Just to update:

I have located the correct hose and when I go ahead and order a 30metre coil, a 15m length will be surplus to my needs.

One poster has expressed an interest in it but is yet to reply to my PM.

Cost for 15m will be £21.
 
Dave100456 said:
Choice of two, both oil free 230v

specs
180 l/min 1.5hp, 8bar, 6 litre receiver
or
144 l/min, 0.75hp, 8 bar 24 litre receiver.

What do you think?
Click to expand...

I would go for the one with the highest volume receiver 6L is not much air even at 8 bars. Always handy to have a bit of spare capacity, got a link to them.
 
Why not use a dive cylinder but leave it on deck and take a basic dive regulator and substitute your longer hose for the normal hose? I f the cylinder is strapped to a side deck you should be able to reach any part of the hull.
 
YIMKIN said:
Why not use a dive cylinder but leave it on deck and take a basic dive regulator and substitute your longer hose for the normal hose? I f the cylinder is strapped to a side deck you should be able to reach any part of the hull.
Click to expand...

Thanks.
See post 30 "..dive shop is a long way from where I will be. Filling of cylinders when you're at anchor in remote countries/locations is not as easy as nipping to a local dive shop. Plus I question the quality of many refills I've had in the past, some from remote outfits, occasionally using petrol driven compressors. "
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top