Honda BF 2.3D

Many thanks Milgrip, you've answered my question. I did not my realize there was solder involved. I am determined to get this motor running right.
One more thing, once the tamper proof cap is off, be gentle when adjusting the mixture screw as the slotted head is designed to snap off if over tightened.
They just don't want us messing with their over lean fuel mixture.
 
Surely if the jet is set correctly ,and the engine runs bad the fault is somewhere else on the engine , usually carb but could be fuel, electronics etc.
 
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Surely if the jet is set correctly ,and the engine runs bad the fault is somewhere else on the engine , usually carb but could be fuel, electronics etc.
Surely if the jet is set correctly ,and the engine runs bad the fault is somewhere else on the engine , usually carb but could be fuel, electronics etc.
I agree, it could be a number of things, so I'm going to service it as comprehensively as I can. New gaskets and jets included. The carb is already clean , but I'll do it again. I always had Seagulls in the past, and usually the problem in recent years was the change in fuel, or breakdown of electrical system. I think I'm this case, if it's not the jets, then it is most likely air leaks.
 
I had this problem with my 2.3 a couple of years ago, stripped & cleaned a couple of times, then managed to drop the carb and break the idle screw. Bought a new one, worked well but didn't fit the antitamper cap. Also had to adjust the throttle cable. Now working fine. I always use Premium petrol + Honda additive. I don't drain the carb and this spring it started 3rd pull.
 
Finally got the engine to run ok, but it's a fine line between idling and cutting out. New gaskets and jets installed and another clean. Have yet to use it on the boat though. I've been quoted for a new carb, but undecided as yet. I think the main problem is with the fuel, so I will be looking at that closely. Interestingly, I,ve had problems with a motor mower, which was down to an iffy float valve. But in the manual, it says not to use a fuel containing ethanol. Whilst cleaning the tank, I filtered the fuel, and found at least 10% of it had separated. Not sure if it were the ethanol or water. However, thanks to you all for your input.
 
This season. I've started using Fuel Set (plenty of other alternatives out there) in anything small and petrol powered like the outboard or a suitcase generator where the fuel will sit for more than a couple of weeks. I also use Tesco momentum 98 octane E5....These small engines seem hate this new E10 fuel. As I write, my outboard has been sat with this fuel concoction in it for a few weeks already, so I'll be interested to see how it starts when the time comes.
 
According to the workshop guys at SAL Marine in Lymington, the BF2.3 is a very reliable outboard provided you are fastidious with fuel quality and storage (including use of stabiliser additive) and you absolutely ensure you empty the carburetor if the outboard isn't going to be used for a few weeks. For more significant idle periods they recommend a full drain-down of the fuel system to avoid goop / jelly-like forming and fouling the jets, the emulsion tube, etc., etc.

In addition to using only e5 fuel and running the carb dry after each session of use, this season I'm contemplating also opening the carb bowl drain screw to be totally certain that the bowl is empty of fuel.

I do like the BF2.3 outboard but it seems the carb can be a real PITA if not treated kindly.
 
Boathook got straight to the nub of it
The pilot air passage and jet have to be totally clear for the eng to idle properly
Plus the fuel needle valve has to be seating correctly in its place
The above all ok and correct the eng will behave ok
 
Bought a new Honda 2.3 last year, only used for around 2 hours in total.
Been lying on the correct side in the lazerette for about 5-6 months.
No idea it needed posh petrol or snake oil and most certainly did not drain carb.
Pulled it out this week, shocked when it started after 3rd pull.
On the other hand its a nasty horrid noisy smelly piece of work compared to the cheapo Ebay quality electric device which was pulled out afterwards.
The electric outboard will cruise our small rigid floor inflatable just as fast as the petrol and so much more peacefully for me and anybody else within 100m.
There is Williams festering in a garage which really needs dragging out and cleaning but dreading starting it up only for something outrageously expensive to break. at least with the inflatable you can row it back with some trace of dignity when something fails.
Looking on the forums , outdrives , are paragons of reliability , compared to anything with Williams badge on it.
Clamped the outboard to our pontoons, connected the battery and left the thing running, it was still going 30 mins later with all the battery condition LEDs still lit Green.
Must remember to give the casing on the electric outboard another badly applied layer of "Hammerite."
 
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According to the workshop guys at SAL Marine in Lymington, the BF2.3 is a very reliable outboard provided you are fastidious with fuel quality and storage (including use of stabiliser additive) and you absolutely ensure you empty the carburetor if the outboard isn't going to be used for a few weeks. For more significant idle periods they recommend a full drain-down of the fuel system to avoid goop / jelly-like forming and fouling the jets, the emulsion tube, etc., etc.

In addition to using only e5 fuel and running the carb dry after each session of use, this season I'm contemplating also opening the carb bowl drain screw to be totally certain that the bowl is empty of fuel.

I do like the BF2.3 outboard but it seems the carb can be a real PITA if not treated kindly.
I totally agree. If I have a problem at all now, it is most likely the carb needs to be set up for idling. Position of throttle .etc. There seems to be a small resistance to the throttle linkage near the idling speed position. I,m wondering if this is the optimum position before total cut off.
 
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