Honda 2.3hp gear oil

[Milgrip]

The owner's manual states that GL4 gear oil should be used in my 2016 Honda 2.3hp yet I noticed that the Honda BF2D owner's manual states either GL4 or GL5 gear oil can be used. GL-5 lubricants are designed to cope with the sliding action of hypoid gear interfaces and although GL-5 type lubricants are not always compatible with the yellow metal (brass or bronze) in synchromesh synchronizers, with the simple non synchromesh gear assembly used in the Honda 2.3hp wouldn't you think that using high performance gear lube GL-5 would be ok to use. Any thoughts on this as I have a couple of tubes of Quicksilver high performance gear lube GL-5 tubes collecting dust on my shelf.

 

[steve66]

Your Quicksilver oil is quite adequate for your job. Remember to fill from the bottom drain

 

[Denngeor]

Your Quicksilver oil is quite adequate for your job. Remember to fill from the bottom drain

Steve, why is it so important to fill from the bottom drain? I suspect to make certain no air is trapped but, if you filled it slowly from the top hole wouldn’t the air escape?

 

[Gentleman of Leisure]

It's much easier to fill from the bottom as you can judge when it's full. It's further of benefit if you get a filler kit.

 

[VicS]

The owner's manual states that GL4 gear oil should be used in my 2016 Honda 2.3hp yet I noticed that the Honda BF2D owner's manual states either GL4 or GL5 gear oil can be used. GL-5 lubricants are designed to cope with the sliding action of hypoid gear interfaces and although GL-5 type lubricants are not always compatible with the yellow metal (brass or bronze) in synchromesh synchronizers, with the simple non synchromesh gear assembly used in the Honda 2.3hp wouldn't you think that using high performance gear lube GL-5 would be ok to use. Any thoughts on this as I have a couple of tubes of Quicksilver high performance gear lube GL-5 tubes collecting dust on my shelf.

My understanding is that the problem with the additives in GL5 and " yellow metal" components is only at the elevated temperatures of vehicle gearboxes.
Outboard gearboxes are water cooled so don't run hot. AFAIK they don't contain yellow metals anyway ( except Seagulls), or synchromesh systems .

If in any doubt use an outboard gearbox oil , such as Quicksilver Premium Gear lube.
We are told that outboard gear oils contain corrosion inhibitors and emulsifiers, to protect against the effects of water intrusion, which automotive oils do not

The "High Performance" oil is not necessary for small ( <75hp) outboards. Do not mix the premium and high performance types.

 

[VicS]

Steve, why is it so important to fill from the bottom drain? I suspect to make certain no air is trapped but, if you filled it slowly from the top hole wouldn’t the air escape?

It is to ensure no air is trapped and to allow it to escape . It is almost impossible to fill with such a viscous oil and allow air to escape at the same time through such a small hole. You will spill oil all over the thing and maybe still leave trapped air

Fill from the bottom. When oil appears at the top hole quickly refit the top plug , then remove the filling device and fit the lower one .

Always use new seals of the correct type on the drain and level plugs.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

My understanding is that the problem with the additives in GL5 and " yellow metal" components is only at the elevated temperatures of vehicle gearboxes.
Outboard gearboxes are water cooled so don't run hot. AFAIK they don't contain yellow metals anyway ( except Seagulls), or synchromesh systems .

If in any doubt use an outboard gearbox oil , such as Quicksilver Premium Gear lube.
We are told that outboard gear oils contain corrosion inhibitors and emulsifiers, to protect against the effects of water intrusion, which automotive oils do not

The "High Performance" oil is not necessary for small ( <75hp) outboards. Do not mix the premium and high performance types.

The engine in question is air cooled. (Charter operators love the Honda 2.3 because they can be started and run, to check operation, without removing from the pushpit.

 

[VicS]

The engine in question is air cooled. (Charter operators love the Honda 2.3 because they can be started and run, to check operation, without removing from the pushpit.

The engines is air cooled .... but the gearbox is watercooled .

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

The engines is air cooled .... but the gearbox is watercooled .

So shouldn't be run, out of water, fast enough to engage gear?

 

[VicS]

So shouldn't be run, out of water, fast enough to engage gear?

I think you could run it for a long time out of the water before the gearbox heated up significantly.

Some air cooled engines have a system where water is forced up a tube by the wash from the prop to cool the exhaust. Not sure if the same applies to the little Hondas but I am led to believe that the once popular air cooled Archimedes/ Crescent/ Volvo Penta 3.9 suffered damage to the swivel bushes if run out of the water for too long.

 

[steve66]

Hi, I have run these engines out of water for a few minutes without the gearboxes getting warm. They have an internal exhaust pipe the soaks up most of the heat.The older bf2a models should not be run at all out of water. They have an impeller that cools the exhaust. As Vic states these are very similar to the old Archimedes engines , the swivel bushes melt if run without water flow .