Honda 2.3 4stroke outboard 2004 - no tick over

wizard

wizard

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Anyone got a workshop manual for the above outboard as I need to strip the card and clean the idle jet and can give me a diagram or a few pointers as to where the idle jet is.

Its really annoying (and exciting) to fire the engine up with the throttle set high /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Many thanks for any help
 
Watching this carefully as mine has the same problem since a recent trip to the bottom of Chichester Harbour, was hard to start as well but new plug sorted that out (back to starting first time just no tickover) /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Have you tried giving the engine a good run - it could be old fuel causing the problem. Problems as you describe are sometimes caused by underuse. Also if you were to run the engine sufficiently so that you run it dry, you may remove any gunk in your carb. If you have old fuel in the tank dump it as it certainly won't help. I suggest trying the above before dismantling anything.
If you keep your choke out while starting on high throttle, you won't go anywhere. You can then ease in your choke as you prepare to depart.
Hope this helps.
 
It has fresh petrol, is run every week for about 1.5 hrs (minimum) in 0.5hr bursts. First thing I tried was the tip the petrol out and run dry -no luck on refilll and run.
Also took the plug out gapped and replaced with a new one - same problem.

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-Marine-Outbo...1QQcmdZViewItem
The link above will take you to ebay for a manual at less than a fiver on CD. I purchased one and it seems ok although I think it covers the 2.0 and not the 2.3 but should be the same carb diagram. I would forward you the pages but it will not allow me to copy/print them. If you prefer pm me and I will send you my disc for you to borrow.
 
We managed strip and clean our carb without the manual and it certainly improved starting and running. There is a point in the internal fuel passage that's very hard to clean and I suspect our Hond suffers from slight fuel starvation since we have to operate the choke for a long time.
Absolutely must be stored upright. A good plug helps a lot, we went thro quite a few but now have one thats done over two seasons and I'm very loth to change it!!
 
There's a pdf on the honda website showing a carb and how it's put together. And giving the jet diameter (0.5mm). Unfortunately I can't find it! It's a generic document since the carbs are used in other stuff so it's not easy to find.

If it helps I believe I've posted a link to it on ybw at some time.
 
I think what he means is that when you rev it up with the choke out the engine gets too little air and dies. The choke is for starting on quite low revs. You can have it out and throttle up for starting but then you need to push it in directly or throttle down.
 
Found the thread with the link and have printed off the diagram

Many thanks indeed

/forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
I think a float test which only proves they do not will invalidate any warranty.
This recommendation of running engines dry does not sit well as tarnish/gum will only then dry on and bond to all surfaces where it is present (will it not?). Carburettor components once used/in service are not designed to be left dry. I would strongly recommend (on 4 strokes) the use of petrol additives which clean, improve performance, unblock jets (to a point) and improve start-up and idle/tick-over. Also unless total electronic management in running the show there will be an idle/tick-over adjustment screw. Also because most outboards never have a good daily run they do tend to become gummed-up sticky and problematic.
 
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